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About MadHatter

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  • Birthday 01/01/1948

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  • Location
    Kalamazoo, Michigan
  • Interests
    Anything leather

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Alteration and repair of garments and accessories
  • Interested in learning about
    all topics
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    google saddle repair sewingmachines

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  1. They are called Nippers. I use the cheap ones but extend their sharp time with a few well placed strokea to the bevel and the flata with a piece of Arkansas Hard stone that broke off many years ago.
  2. Chrome tan leather with dull an edge faster than veg tan because it has metalic salt residue in it. Edge angle will effect sharpness longevity. Also edge concave type will also. Finding the right balance for all the variables will maximize your efforts.
  3. Be sure to not raise hoot to turn before needle ia past bottom and starting to move upwards. Also, use a smaller needle so loops stick inside the leather
  4. Your core is to wide for the width of your strands. Try one without a core and then one with a thin core, say one thong. Then a three braid core.
  5. the Cowboy, or any in that class, will do a good job for any projects you mentioned but will require changing adjustments for lighter any heavier threads. I use a CB4500 along with a JUKI LU563 for lighter 69 to 138 threads. Each should have the newer type motor controler for much smaller learning curve Having both is the way to go. Your wife's machine sewing skills may help you cut down your learning curve :-|
  6. The leather at the edge is dry rotted from lack os conditioning over the years. You can't paint over the rot. Take out the rotted parts and replace with a stable base to burnish and paint an edge.
  7. not how you would calculate the strebgth of the loop. consider the tensile, tangential and stress distribution of the forces in play as it would ne in use. also the stitch length will effect the strenth of any seam. but l would say your strap would hold as you describe
  8. I would first case the leather with water to do the stretching. After its dry useTenderly conditiiner. Grasso watter proofer then URAD topcoat wax. These italian leather care products are available through www.madhatterleather.com
  9. Before switching the back I would glue it up first stretch the backing and I'll keep it P keep it good stretched up until the weather in till the letter would stick to the backing well enough and keep it curved until dry then I would stick and it keep it curved always until the stitch then when it was straight the back in with stretch a little bit but then when you come get it wouldn't wrinkle it was just naturally fall into place where it was glued up at in it in the first place I do that all the time with backings that I'm what kind of fool wit molding the letter and I really wedding the letter put the glue and lamination gives it the shape that's why I like to use barge cement and use it with and not as a contact cement which will be stronger but it's not going to be able to have the shaping the gluing does a ipod parts Portsmouth 40 years and I can't think of one to two times except maybe the shoes or something that I actually use it as contact cement as it was most people think that it's only contact cement I always use it what to wear and and make sure is the wrinkles around you and pulls tired or whatever has to happen to give my flaps shaping or other parts that I'm going to shave and that's what I would do
  10. I think you are right on staggering the holes for that braid.
  11. I bought a large lot of these crimp on bars with what seems to be a male segma snap head on one side. They crimp on the edge for change purses. I see them on the change purse flap parts of older wallets and kit items from vintage Tandy carved and laced projects. I just replaced a closure piece on and older Tandy kit women's wallet that have a shorter bar (about 3/4") My bars are about 2" wide but I was able to uncrimp the original off the rotted leather and instal it into the new leather closure. The female part in the wallet side was in good shape so I didn't have to try an adapt the wider ones I had to the new leather so that worked out. But I am still at a loss to get the matching female side parts to go with the snap bars i have. They are very cool of you have ever sen a vintage item with this sort of closure on the change purse flaps. I would use them if I could. I have about 100 bars. The segma snaps available from Tandy now are "line 16" (this forum is the onlyh plalce I have ever seen the word 'ligne' used instead of 'line'). I have found one listing for line 14 sigma snaps in brass plated steel. Before I buy these to be able to use the female sides with my bars I was wondering if anyone else has had experience with these snap bars and that my bars will snap to the line 14s for sale at http://www.zackwhite.com/Line-14-Brass-Plateed-Steel-Snaps-100-Pack_p_2797.html peace, ed
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