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JanetNorris

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About JanetNorris

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    Member

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    tack repair, custom work
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    heard about it from Bruce Johnson

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  1. Thanks Northmount, I will try that when i get some time free again. And i will post any progress made.
  2. Thanks Ron, The rest of the saddle is in pretty good shape so I do hate to call it trash. It sounds like you have worked on a few. Any hints on how to get the ring shanks out of the front seat button area, without ripping through the leather or cracking the front edge of the tree bars with my nail puller? They are stuck down tight enough I can't get nippers under the nailheads to cut them off.
  3. Re the tree, there is no visible cracking, and a horn to cantle, and bar to bar squeeze has not discernable flexing or audible creaking.
  4. Thank you RK and Big Sioux, that is about where I am at. I have done a few repairs for this family in the past and would like to help them but the amount of work seems excessive and yes, not worth doing. It is a Circle Y, which was a fair saddle back in my riding days but judging from the materials and fiberglas I am thinking this is not worth fixing. The only alternative I can think of is remove the horn entirely and patch over the hole, and make it hornless. I will share your opinions if you don't mind, so he won't think I am just being a wimp. thanks again for taking the time to reply. Oh thanks Bruce for chiming in just now.
  5. a customer brought in an older production saddle with a horn issue. His horse spooked under a tree and the horn hit a limb and partially ripped off. It looks like a cast aluminum horn. There are no "legs" with screws in them, just a rounded mass of metal on top of the wood fork, with some fiberglas remnants. It appears that the horn was held on by two screws up through the fork. into the horn base. The fork cover is under the in- skirt rigging, and the nails holding the seat seem to be ring shanks. I am having a bunch of trouble getting this thing torn down, and I really don't know if/how it can be repaired even if I get the fork cover off. The intended use is trail riding. Any ideas or suggestions out there? Thank you in advance.-Janet
  6. thanks Richard. I figured it had to at least be his design. Whoever did this put a lot of detail in it. The shirt pocket, etc. are very distinct.
  7. This tri-leg leather seat came in today for conditioning. It was inherited by a friend of mine. I was admiring the work and noticed the brand on the calf. Might this be an early carving from Al Stohlman? Is anybody familiar with how he signed his work? Thanks in advance-Janet
  8. I had a request today from a rodeo queen contestant. She has some beautiful show chaps that unfortunately bunch up or "gap" right in front of her pockets when she sits in the saddle. She says this will cost her points and asked if I could help. Short of putting in some darts, how could I get this excess leather under control? Is the waist too high maybe? Can anyone suggest a fix? Thanks in advance-Janet
  9. I also have some packets of needles and awls that go with it.
  10. I was asked if the wheel turns by hand and the needle/awl moves--yes. And yes, offers considered. I priced this based on what little market data I could find. I hate to sell this to a scrap metal place....
  11. Now able to attach photos.
  12. Correction of terminology. Per my talented husband, he can palletize it, not crate it for that price. He estimates shipping weight at 500 pounds, but we have no facility to weigh it where it sits.
  13. As is. I don't know if this runs or not. I was told it came from the shop of Art Vancore, a well known saddlemaker in California. we really need the shop space so this project needs a new home. Asking $550.00 and will crate it for that price. You arrange shipping or pickup between Hollister and Gilroy, CA. It is very heavy! Please email me to request photos, they exceed the attachment limit here.
  14. JW, thank you for your input. It gives me the needed confidence to proceed with oil. Bruce, thanks also to you for expanding on the process. I am wondering if the RM Williams leaves the nap of the roughout kinda smoothed down, or if it absorbs too? I was surprised that the nap fluffed up so much when I cleaned this saddle. Regards, Janet
  15. Hello, I recently picked up a Dave Silva rough-out saddle in need of cleaning, conditioning, stirrup leathers and new sheepskin. Under the dirt and bald spots it is a really well-made rig. I am fine with the relining work, assembly, etc. but do not have experience with rough-out saddles. I cleaned it with liquid castile soap, a nail brush and plenty of rinse water. But now I'm not sure how to apply oil or other conditioner without getting a blotchy result, a major dirt magnet, and a year of oily riding jeans. The fenders and seat jockeys are lined so I can't just oil from the backside. I was thinking of applying olive oil or maybe #1 saddle oil through an airbrush. Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance, Janet Silicon Valley Leather Guild (Hi Bruce!)
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