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Everything posted by skyblast

  1. Thanks! This type of holster is so fun to hold in your hands....taking the pistol in and out. I got a lot of my ideas from the holster book, Packing Iron. I am so greatful to have found it.
  2. Well the tooling is not that adavced but I'm considering selling them on my website??? California Holsters I've got them listed as coming soon. I've got about 6 more designs but I'm waiting to sell another holster to come up with the funds to buy some lamb skin to line them with. Any suggestions? It's my first attempt. The gun is a reproduction. Is there any market for these kinds of holsters?
  3. I hope that I am putting this in the right section? Does anyone know where I might be able to find a US civil War era leather stamp like the one shown?
  4. Thank you Thank you Thank you. I am so excited to go home and get started.....wetting the leather Who knew??? Thanks!!!
  5. This has been really bugging me for some time now. In this picture, which I believe is the first step, how does one get a nice deep wide channel with a swivel knife? When I've tried using my swivel knife I get a very thin slice that does not stay wide. Any suggestions for how to get a nice wide channel with a swivel knife as shown in the pic? Is there a step I'm missing? Thanks The picture is supposed to show step one in making a floral design in leather
  6. Thank you everyone. Lots of things to experiment with now!!
  7. I think that I am using the right products but I think I may be using them in the wrong order. Here are the steps I use after a holster has been assembled and burnished (burnished using only water). 1) dye and let dry for a few hours (Feibings non pro dye) 2) using a dry cloth wipe off excess dye. 3) Spray on Saddle Soap to clean off any dye that did not take...let dry 4) Dye again let dry over night 5) Lexol to moisturize 6) Resolene (if only the dye looks good) It is in step 5 where I have been noticing dye coming off. Dye coming off to the point where I can seen bare leather showing through. Any suggestions? I get the feeling that I am way out of whack here.
  8. For me it was never about money it was about principal. I broke the part, I called to get a new one without a thought of getting it for free. Then I get a Tippman rep telling me, "the one screw shuttles are faulty and that for some reason they seem to be loosing tension over time." He said this at least twice and kept repeating it's not you, it's not you. He then told me they were hoping to someday get the one screw shuttles out of circulation. After I had paid I starting thinking about what he had said. I told them how I felt, they issued me a refund. The only reason I posted the two emails on this forum was to see if Bob was somehow irritated with me. Hard to tell in emails sometimes. I also posted to see if others were having issues with their one screw shuttles. I never thought I would get ripped so badly...WHICH I DESERVED!! What did I learn? One, I broke it. Once I broke it all justifications for whether or not the part is faulty goes out the window. You break it you buy it. End of story. I had NO right asking for anything. Maybe they might want me to mail the part in so they could test it themselves? Not that they would but they deserve that right. Me breaking it takes that option away from them. Two, I just need to shut my mouth and be happy Tippman exists. Amen? Amen!!!
  9. Thanks Denise. Wow, what a learning situation for me this has been for me.
  10. It looks as though I am clearly in the wrong in this situation. To:TroyS PLEASE UNDERSTAND I WAS ONLY MESSING WITH THE TENSION ARM BECAUSE MY MACHINE WAS GETTING ZERO TENSION. ACCORDING TO A TIPPMAN REPRESENTATIVE THE ONE SCREW SHUTTLES WERE FAULTY...THIS CAME DIRECTLY FROM THE HORSE'S MOUTH. Once I was told this, I really felt like the part should have been recalled. Hence, why should I have to pay for it? I now understand having talked to couple different individuals at Tippman that the shuttle is a wear and tear item and the fact that mine lost tension is normal. This I can accept. I really wish that I would have spoken one of these two guys in the beginning. That said, I called Tippman this morning and paid for the shuttle.
  11. The reason for this post is that I am having a hard time trying to figure out how to interpret the response from Bob Tippman regarding my email to him. Mainly, I now feel guilty that I was given a refund. Should I? Are any of you detecting some irritation/sarcasm in Bob's response? Sometimes I read it and think that he was 100% honest/kind and then sometimes I read and feel that he is pissed off? Have any of you experienced any issues with the "single screw" shuttle? Should I have complained about this shuttle? Do I have a leg to stand on here? I was told in a 10 minute phone conversation that I would not be getting a refund do to the fact that 1000's of single screw shuttle are out there and that they seem to be working fine for most. I accepted this and figured...oh well, can't win em all. Then unexpectedly Bob Tippman emailed me back.... In the end I guess no matter what I consider the Tippman company to be top notch. Number one they listened and second they were not obligated to do a thing for me as I was not the original purchaser and the machine is 5+ years old. I kind of wish now I could give the money back... I did already bring this up with a service guy and apparently he is looking into my situation. Last night I broke a piece off of my shuttle. I was trying my darndest to adjust the tension arm on the shuttle because I simply was not getting any kind of tension on the bobbin string. I figured tweaking it a bit was my only alternative. This morning I called and spoke to someone about ordering a new part. The gentlemen I spoke to indicated that the "one screw" shuttle set up (the type I have) was faulty and that for some reason it was loosing tension over time. He also explained that they were hoping to have everyone call in to order the new two screw shuttle to replace the one screw shuttles. This sounds very much to me like a recall. For a machine that is supposed to be virtually indestructible I would certainly not expect the shuttle to loose tension over a short period of time. The individual I purchased this machine from told me that he had only used it a limited number of times. I am guessing he had been having issues with tension also...hence the reason for selling it to me? In my small holster business if a customer informed me that a snap or rivet had gone bad on their holster I certainly would not be charging them for replacement. I would view this as a faulty part and send them a replacement free of charge. When this has happened to me in the past I even covered the customers shipping both ways. In closing, I am having a hard time trying figure out why I am being charged for what appears to be a defective part. I did already place an order and pay for the part. I am however looking for reimbursement. Thank you very much for hearing me out. Sincerely, Tim Ostrander Holland Holster Co. (A one man operation) P.S. At some point I am looking into purchasing one of your embossers. Tired of doing it by hand. Timothy- The machine comes with a one year warranty. There are other major brands selling their sewing machines with the exact same shuttle that you have. 5 years ago, I found a new source for the shuttles and have been very happy with them. However, I understand your frustration, and will replace the 5+ year old shuttle at no cost to you and it will ship out tomorrow. Please accept this as my way of saying welcome to the Tippmann family. I hope that you enjoy many good years of our service and make lots of money off our machinery. Have a great day! Thanks <br clear="all"> Bob Tippmann Tippmann Industrial Products Cell: (260) 409-1936 Toll Free: (866) 286-8046 bob@tippmannindustrial.com
  12. Oh... I think I figured it out. The arm places tension on the thread not the actual bobbin. I took off the tension arm, gave it a few tweaks and now there seems to be more tension on the thread. I'm glad that I didn't have to box it up and send it to Indiana. Thanks for being a sounding board leatherworker.net!!
  13. This is to anyone using or knows how to use a Tippman Boss. I really do not understand the mechanism behind the bobbin tension?? At least on my TB the screw looks to be functioning perfect however I do not understand what creates tension on the bobbin? When I tighten the screw down the bobbin turns as freely as when the screw is loose? The arm with the screw in it doesn't even touch the bobbin when it's completely in... In the picture the bobbin is all the way in. When I hold the tension arm down (the arm with the screw in it) the bobbin turns freely. Why? Isn't the tension arm (with the screw) supposed create tension? Any ideas?
  14. I have officially taken the plunge. I returned the two quarts of spirit dye and and now own three bottles of pro oil dye. Thanks everyone for the great advice. Now time to tackle the airbrush...
  15. Good advice. One can't beat experimenting. On that note I burnished my first edge on a drill press this morning. You know that plastic wheel with the hole in it that a lot of leather stores sell? It has about a three inch diamemter? I hammered a phillips drill bit into it and attached it into my drill. Oh man! That plastic wheel works really well. I was able to get my first glass edge with it!! First I wet the edge, burnish, then I applied some saddle soap mixed with lexol, then burnished again??? I am I doing this right? I also rubbed in some burnishing wax then burnished again. I worry about the dye not being able to penetrate the wax though. I have a feeling my steps are out of wack? I also noticed that my edge is a bit cracked looking. I started out by going both directions while burnishing....I'm only supposed to go one direction right? How does one know which direction is right?
  16. Hey!! Is that you? It's Tim here!! I noticed your web address. So yeah, I have my two bottles of spirit (regular) dye all bagged up and ready to return. I buy from McPherson's Leather in Seattle. I called them up and yes, they are around $20. Thanks, man you are so helpful!
  17. I ended with the $80 Harbor Freight set up...comes with a compressor. I believe the Pro oil is ok as I already know one guy that is using it. I am wondering if the regular stuff is ok? The pro oil is so expensive. I made a spray booth out of a cardboard box.
  18. Soon I will be attempting to airbrush my holsters instead to dipping them. Question: When airbrushing is it better to use pro oil dye or is the regular Fiebings dye ok? Actually for that matter which is a better dye to use....for any application dipping or airbrushing? Does it even matter or is one better than the other for certain things. Curious. If I do decide to switch.... Feibings professional is so much more expensive!! Any airbrush advice before I take the plunge? I think that I have all the equipment I need to get started. Now I'm just staring at it kind of nervously trying to work up the nerve to get started. Thanks
  19. Thanks for the great advice. Sometime soon I hope to try polishes and waxes. Update on saddle lac. In my humble opinion....I do not like it. I spent three hours over the weekend scraping saddle lac off of 9 holsters!!! It was NOT fun to say the least. Once I noticed it chipping off of one of my holsters I knew that there was no way that I was going to send one out the door. I did refinish them with Resolene (love it now) but will have to sell them at a discount because they were salvaged. Oh well live and learn. Thanks for all the advice all.
  20. I've seen here and there wooden and plastic burnishing bits that appear to go on the end of a drill. My question. Is there anything out there that rests on a table that you can operate by foot? I am invisioning a heavy motorized device that spins at variant speeds by foot pedal inwhich you can determine the speed of the bit while burnishing an edge? Does anything like that exsist and where might one buy this type of thing? Thanks
  21. Thanks again for all of the great advice. I tried dipping a saddle lac(ed) holster in Resolene to bring it down to satin. It seems to have worked a little. Man, saddle lac is no joke...shinny as all heck! So I did bring down a few saddle lac(ed) holsters to a gunshop where I am currently selling them. The responce I did get from a very experinced gun dealer (who is in charge of the holster ordering)....all he had to say was, "WOW, they look fantastic!" Before when they had a light satin finsh on them I did not get the same reaction. BUT On the the flipside I keep hearing from everyone that most guys will prefer a matte/satin, instead of the high gloss...? I guess I will have to carry my designs in both satin and gloss? Although most may prefer matte/satin I am gald all of my demos are in high gloss. I really want them to make a statement when I bring them into a shop for the first time. As the saying goes....one chance at making a first impression. Risky though. Maybe the guy in the shop hates high gloss? I will have to quickly tell him... and they come in satin too and bust one out asap!!
  22. Great suggestions. Thank you. Now that I have applied the lac to this particular holster is there any way to tone it down a bit? Maybe with some kind of thinner? I love the idea of saddle lac but yes it is a bit too shinny. If saddle lac on a scale from one to ten is a 9 I'm looking for about a 7.
  23. So now I'm afraid I'm a victum of maybe getting what I asked for...too shiny? I have noticed that Galco, Brigade and many other big companies work their holsters up to a pretty good shine. Is mine too shiny? When I brought one of my holsters into a shop the other day mine was compared to a Galco. The Galco popped with a nice shinny finsh whereas mine was dull and boring. I understand each to his own but I also love the fact that Saddle Lac seals the dye in. No more dye rubbing off on my customers pants. Also is there a way to tone the shinness down a bit? Is there a lower gloss Saddle Lac? I can't seem to find one. The holster on the table is the same as one on my pants. Obviously though the one on the table is reflecting more light. What do you think?
  24. Ok so now I'm home and am using Feibings Resolene and Saddle Lac. I gotta tell you guys...I freakin love love love the (spray) Saddle Lac!! OMG!! Wow. My only issue is that it might be a bit too shiny? The Resolene was ok? It tended to run a lot and now that it's dry you can the see the streaks. Is there a lower gloss spray saddle lac out there? The one I have says "new higher gloss"
  25. Great!! Thanks for the good advice. Darn. I wish I would have learned this two years ago. Oh well better now than never right?
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