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rmr

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Everything posted by rmr

  1. Many years ago I had one- it is certainly quicker than hand stitching. Mine was very problematic- I had a heck of a time getting it "tuned" just right so it wouldn't miss stitches. Then if you changed thread thickness you had to start all over again. Plus I found with some projects- you need 3 hands to operate the thing- one to pull down on the handle and 2 to control your work. I finally got so frustrated with the thing I sold it and took the funds to purchase a cobra machine- which I found it amazingly easy to learn to use- stitches are better and I cant remember the last time I dropped one. IMO- I would save a little more $$ and move up to a cobra or one of the other similar machines, which work equally as good. There are many out there used these days - it will be worth the investment, learning curve will be reduced by about 90%, you will be less frustrated than with an expensive piece of equipment (boss) that only works so so good luck with your decision
  2. Thank you- I do have a flat table attachment for my Cobra- I guess I need to take some scarp canvas and try it out- it would be awesome if I don't need another machine RMR
  3. I would like to start making canvas duffle bags, sportsman's bags, gun cases... ( like the filson bags) using 18oz canvas- possible waxed canvas- with leather trim pieces. I currently have a Cobra 4 cylinder bed machine and a Cambell Bosworth for my leather work Somewhere I read for heavy canvas that a cylinder bed machine( cobra) will cause bunching of the canvas- is that true?? That article recommended a flat bed machine. If that is correct info- what would be a good machine to be looking at. I have never worked with canvas before. I would probably just use the Cobra machine to sew the leather trim pieces onto the canvas- so I just need something to sew the canvas. Thank you in advance RMR
  4. thanks guys for the reply and advice- sounds like I need to start practicing
  5. I have a range bag I will be sewing around a curved end. The curvature will not allow me to use my cobra cylinder bed to sew very well- I was contemplating using either the holster or stirrup plate . I have never used them- but I remember somewhere someone saying that you need to reduce the tension on the needle thread and will probably need to re-adjust the stitch length. Is that true- or any other recommendations Thank you RMR
  6. Thanks- I will give that a try- I guess I have been ay overthinking this one
  7. I am trying to find a source for 6" long 2 ring binder hardware - I have tried Buckleguy, hardware elf, ohio travel bag....... I have found them online- but you have to buy 50 units at a time- only need 2-3 any ideas thanks in advance RMR
  8. Im getting ready to make a leather cover ( somewhat similar to pictures below- but different )for a fly reel while its on a fly rod. Will be used primarily to transport the rod/reel to and from the river and protect the reel from getting nicks/scratches while in transport. It will be exposed to the elements to a degree ( so might get wet, but hopefully not soaking wet)- its not going to used to keep the reel waterproof Most of the other outdoor products I have made - I have used Latigo. I can use that here also but am having a difficult time locating Latigo in the thickness I desire. I have seen other cases made from Bridle and English Bridle leather . I do not want to use a chrome tanned product because if it gets wet and the chromium slats leach onto the reel or rod they may corrode them. So would you use Latigo or Bridle/english Bridle leather for this project - or other recommendations Thanks for any insight RMR
  9. I have 3 of Terry Knipscheild (sp?) knives- head/round knife, skiver and pointed knife. Have had 2 of them for 3-4 years now- I stop them prior to using them each time to keep them razor sharp- and still have not had to have them re-ground. I ususally am cutting 5/6 or 8/10 oz veg tan, latigo or bison. don't hold off getting a quality round knife because of the concern about having to have it reground RMR
  10. I see the same- Im guessing as its passed through the leather multiple times- it starts to pick up some of the dye, or even oils/waxes in the leather and starts to discolor. Switch to an off white and it will not be noticeable RMR
  11. I have some weaver exact touch edge paint that is several years old now- it has gotten somewhat thick and clumpy- still usable - just not as this as I would like it to be. Can this product be thinned?? I tried a small amount with water- didn't mix well. Thanks RMR
  12. rmr

    Elephant Pieces

    I would be interested in one- but would like to see a picture RMR
  13. Sorry- was the instrument from post 147- tried to cut and copy- cant figure out how to do that RMR
  14. Did anyone ever get one of theses units?? let me know how it worked out Thanks RMR
  15. I just got done with a brief case made from Horween Dublin. I found what imstephenjones recommended plus roughening up the surface that is to be glued with a scratch awl really helped . One of the things I took a while to learn, was when applying products like barge rubber cement ( that is the product I use) -its imperative to make sure the glue on both pieces in dry before compressing the pieces together. Good luck RMR
  16. there is a guy on ETSY( I believe from China or Hong Cong) - selling electric edge creasers for 32 USD. It comes in one size- I have an email into him on how far back from the edge is the creased line. Its not adjustable temperature - looks like a wood burner with a modified tip. The price is right- just don't know how good it will be- trying to get more info on it.
  17. I know many thin down their feibigns oil based dye with denatured alcohol. I just starting doing the same- to make the dye go farther. I did a few tests on some veg tan caps using both light and dark brown as well as mahogany oil dye. Thinned dye ( dye to alcohol) 75:25, 50:50, 25:75. It was really hard on any of the samples ( comparing samples within each color ) I did to tell that there was a difference in the color of the final product once it dried. So My question is- how far do most of you dilute/thin your Fiebings oil based dye with denatured Alcohol?? Im guessing there is an endpoint where there will be a difference in color RMR
  18. Dougster With the amount of $ you have spent there in the short amount of time- if it were me- I would shop elsewhere. Besides- there are far better superior quality suppliers of leather and leatherworking tools out there than Tandy
  19. So Im making a briefcase and am using Horween Dublin leather ( has a pull up effect)- very beautiful leather. My question is: with the horween dublin leather is a top coat needed?? Will a top coat such as neutral bag Kote or Tuff coat effect the pull up properties of the leather?? Thanks you RMR
  20. thank you all for the sources. I guess I should have asked this in the original post- will these gadgets cut nylon thread in the 207-277 size?? and do they provide good security where the thread is cut from pulling back through the hole? Thanks RMR
  21. I have heard that some burn/melt/cut their nylon thread instead of just cutting it- one to prevent it from freeing and two to keep the stitch from undoing itself. Are there better tools than others for this purpose- and or can you direct me to where I may find one Thasnk you RMR
  22. Thank you Paul That is exactly what Im looking for !!!!!
  23. I do it quite often when doing a box stitch- makes sure the holes are evenly spaced out and on a nice straight line. Its a whole lot easier to handstich a box stitch than trying to use a machine and messing up every other item.
  24. I just recently received the skiving knife from Knipknives. It feels great in the hand- and so far from what I can tell - it skives much easier and more uniform( for me) than my round /head knives - also from Terry at knipknives
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