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Everything posted by robs456

  1. Well the world ain't linear friend. The long story: I have always used NFO, just a bit to get the leather smooth and pliable again after dyeing etc. And like the mighty bumblebee I've painted and finished over it to no ill effects throughout the years. Now, checking YT etc I see people like Don Gonzales basically propagating the use of olive oil so I try it out and it works fine. Thing is, besides a few B/W Sheridan style pieces where I used black dye and acrylic finisher (or wax) I didn't paint any projects, hence my post to check the HowWhenWhatnow. One thing I have noticed using regular oil is that you need to use more to get the same effect as NFO, so wondering if that may have an effect on any acrylics.
  2. Well, I use flax seed or olive oil. Just did a test where I took it one step further and put down some mink oil and then an acrylic finish on top of that. It worked but had a fatty feel to it which makes me think the pores in the leather will accommodate both products. The piece was very water resistant but after vigorous rubbing with my thumb until warm 'something' came off. Piece was waterproof still so guessing the mink oil had absorbed into the pores while the acrylic just laid on top.
  3. Yup, that's what I mean. It doesn't really make sense that things like glue or paint adhere to fat/oily surfaces, yet still it works here. Will it work long term? I have some stuff painted with the Cova acrylics that's about eight years old now that's still looking good. Anyone with more experience than me?
  4. Recently I've seen a few posts where folks say they won't oil the leather 'cos they then can't paint it with acrylics, or even finish with acrylics. Hmm, I've never had a problem adding NFO and then putting a finish on. Right now I use Angelus Matte finish, but also have Resolene and Tan Kote. Sometimes I oil and then paint with Angelus paints or use the AB with Jacquard, all acrylics. So far no problem. The workflow most touted here is Oil then Finish, usually with acrylic finishers. So what gives? Why won't people paint with acrylics over oil but are happy to finish with them? Superstitions? Facts?
  5. Add paint to trough, turn on machine, edge some leather.
  6. Very nice! I'm so happy you didn't paint it with a lot of cheesy acrylics, the all brown is sweet!
  7. I use a 0.5 nozzle for sealers. Sometimes a 0.3 with thinned Angelus finish. My favorite right now is the Jacquard Clear Varnish.
  8. It's most likely nothing wrong with your airbrush. Number one thing to do when using sealers in an AB is to reduce properly. Sealers are usually very thick and 1. won't work at all or 2. will clog your nozzle very quickly if not reduced. Clean thoroughly, reduce the sealer and try again. Even reduced they will cause tip dry and clog up quickly so spray some cleaner through periodically while working. Unless you're making huge pieces of leather like bike seats etc, there's no need for an HVLP gun.
  9. I have a customer that insists on a mark, and I even had to put some in after delivery because I forgot. Why do they keep bugging me about it? Because an artist should sign their work...
  10. Vegetable oil is preferred by all the leatherworking vegans...
  11. Depending on the effect you want you may find this useful
  12. That's nice, works better than the black version. Good job!
  13. Don't forget to put on one of these whenever using dangerous machinery like sewing machines or clicker presses, it may save you from all the throat cutting flying debris that we leatherworkers have to put up with. (Just having fun, no disrespect to the OP that obviously needs/wants protection. Better safe than sorry.) (Pic found on Google, remove if not OK for any reason)
  14. Looks very nice. Personally I would have gone with a covered snap as closure for such a luxury item, though the button stud is nice too.
  15. Oh dam, I saw the thread title and thought it was about a dog carving, like 'Dog's playing poker".... Real nice dog carving tho, good job!
  16. OK goody, seems my timeline on the Spanish/Moors is wrong, back to study... I managed to get a PDF of it from Googling, seemed legit too but don't remember the source. I've heard about 'Knives and Scabbards' but never had a look as I'm more interested in the nordic/scandinavian decorations (how I found the book/pdf...).
  17. Ah OK, I just read "Leather and Leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York" looking for some hints on when they really started 'cutting in' with intent. Even the French used the push technique until late and I guess, please correct me if I'm wrong, the Spanish started stamping as we know it in the 1400s. Edit: Came from the Moors I've heard somewhere. And at this time, did the leatherworkers decorate or was it done by the users themselves? Evidence point to the latter, but for me it makes more sense if it was a selling point....
  18. Both cool, but from the authenticity perspective I like the second one, the design is quite spot on. Looks like you cut it though, and I hear they rarely did that...if you didn't please let me know what tool you used. Knives are nice too.
  19. Yes. Speaking of the term in a marketing context I think using Custom instead of Handmade is much better. While people nowadays don't really care how a product is made, they DO care about it being made specifically for them, and personalization. THAT is an excellent marketing point, as is Made-to-order. Using 'custom' as the selling point will never break any 'ethical' obstacles either, if you believe in those.
  20. That old thread...an oldie but a goody too. At this moment I consider that if all assembly and decoration was made by hand, it's handmade. Machine cut -OK (but borderline) Machine sewn -Not handmade Laser engraved -Not handmade, maybe 'hand assembled'? Machine edged - OK (But borderline) Edges machine sanded - OK, as long as you control the leather or the machine with your hands Holes drilled - OK Airbrush painted -OK, as long as you hold the airbrush... Machine skived -Not handmade (really but you said?...-Well, just No OK.) etc in absurdum... Many people will disagree with this , especially those that cut and sew by machine but does the rest by hand. To each their own. There might be a 'correct' answer to the question, but the way the leather goods market looks today it doesn't really matter anyway, the customers don't care. Unless it's mommy...
  21. Isn't that the recipe for Rock? I also make belts, mostly in this way: Get brass buckle Cut leather strap Skive buckle end Punch buckle tongue slot fold leather around buckle Sew wear for a hundred years or more. Don't overthink stuff too much.
  22. Ya, if you can help it don't airbrush indoors. (In the house I mean, shed and paint rooms are OK of course.) I know you know this, but for others reading this...
  23. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Timbertech-Professional-Airbrush-Compressor-Oil-Less/dp/B07J2G7ND9/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_60_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=92BPAWP8W1X2635PV5QW This style works fine indoors. It makes sound of course but it's got a tank so it won't work all the time, and with some felt or something under the feet noise from vibrations will be minimized.
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