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Everything posted by tboyce

  1. I was really scared when the site was unavailable for the past few days but I'm really loving this new look!
  2. The only way I could see of getting around the use of a Harley insignia on a piece custom leather work would be to have the customer buy the item in question, supply it to you, and ask you to incorporate it into your leather work. You aren't getting any money for the Harley item, you aren't getting any markup in any way. Harley could sue you of course. In America, you can sue anyone for just about anything. It's highly probable, though, that you could get that lawsuit thrown out.
  3. I saw that Rocky Mountain Leather Supply is carrying Buttero leather now. It looks really good and I wonder if anyone has had any experience in using it before. How does it stack up against...say...Horween or Wickett and Craig?
  4. Used to live Baseball. Leatherunltd.com is a good resource
  5. I should've probably skived more than I did but, no. The top portion is folded over and only the bottom 2 lines of stitching attach it to the bag body. That portion was skived. The welt was run through a splitter. (It took about 4 tries to get it shaved down enough to fold over).So,all in all, not as much. But even that was too much with this leather.
  6. Leather weights for wallets is an issue that varies from user to user. I prefer thinner wallets so I make all of mine out of 2oz. leather. I wouldn't vary that on the interior pieces however, I suppose that you could wander up to 4oz. on the exterior piece and still not have it be too bulky
  7. I can't be the only one this happens to. When using lighter colored thread, I will notice that there is often a stitch or two that is darker (sometimes a lot darker) than the rest. Its because the thread, passing through the glue and being waxed is sticky and picks up a bit of dirt from the floor of the shop. And I keep my shop floor clean, it just seems that the thread attracts whatever dirt there is. I've tried going over the threads with a gum eraser and that seems to help but, what I'd like is a way to make them look pristine. Has anyone else experienced this and, more importantly, have you found a solution?
  8. It kinda reminded me of this leather: http://www.zackwhite.com/4-12--5-ounce-Crazy-Horse-Pull-Up-Dark-Brown--Z2602CHBN_p_4085.html
  9. I am applying to both sides and waiting. What has seemed to work best is to apply the glue, let it dry completely, then apply a second coat. It holds fast after that but it's such a pain in the butt. When you're working with welter and inverted seams, there's a lot of stress sometimes on that seam until you can get it stitched and having the glue hold is a pretty important part
  10. scuffed up but still slippery as an eel
  11. So, I started working with Horween Dublin and I really like it. One thing I've noticed, however, is that the high oil content means that its a beast to glue. I mean. It seems as if the cement just wont hold! The only thing I've found is clamping the pieces together and waiting almost a day. Has anyone found a way to work around this?
  12. Norton, Thanks. Yes, it's hand stitched. Monica, I haven't noticed the baseball glove leather any harder to cut. It's an absolute beast to skive though. I only had to skive the top inch and a half to fold over and I went through three blades on my safety skiver. Made me wish for an automatic skiver more than a sewing machine. I like the look and feel of the leather and I think it's perfect for bags that will see a lot of use.
  13. Horween's Ball Glove leather trimmed in horse. Tote bag that doubles as a backpack
  14. Horween's baseball glove leather trimmed in Horween horse strip
  15. When you guys are making messenger bags. What strap length do you usually settle on?
  16. There are so many different makes and models of clasp knives that it would be tough to come up with a pattern unless I knew the measurements
  17. I'm always impatient as well...I'm always starting and then, about halfway through thinking, "I shoulda waited until now...."
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