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Topcat

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Everything posted by Topcat

  1. This is an update on the blades. We are going to test a blade that is made in a similar manner as the old original blades. They will have a high carbon insert for sharper edge and good edge retention. The cost will be the issue....of course. We are also testing blades that will not be bi metal and they will be less expensive to be sure. We will see how this all sorts out and I will post the results. There is no way to hurry this and keep things reasonable. The blades will have 1 hole and 1 slot to make them universal for the slight differences in same model with slightly different specs. Cheers.....Topcat
  2. Going through some old boxes I came up with Chase splitter that I did not know I Had. Must have been a trade or possibly it was given to me......I'm not sure. It is as new! with a hollow ground blade that is razor sharp and new. I looked at it and having never used one I was not impressed to say the least. However I decided to give it a try and boy was I surprised.....What a great splitter. To everyone looking for a very good and easy to use splitter.....the Chase is excellent and often easier to find than a Krebs or Randal......just a thought.
  3. Solid brass belt loop staples for sale......20 each for 4.95 plus 2.75 shipping and handling. Give your belts a professional look. Quantity discounts available..... tcantwell@lakecentermarina.com
  4. I am having a test blade made for the Randall/Krebs splitters. It will be new and in perfect condition, razor sharp and honed with the cutting edge perfectly square to the holes....etc. The reason for the test is to be sure it will hold the edge and be able to pass the test of splitting Herman Oak molding leather and bridle leather. I have a source for the blades that make this possible. It will be a couple of months before this can be sorted out and I will post the results and take orders at that time. The cost will be very reasonable and this will be a one time deal......I may stock a few blades, but they will not be nearly as reasonable as the one time run. If you wish to be put on the list for a blade or blades you may email me or post to this topic....cheers....Topcat
  5. from a previous post one contributor suggested coco bolo wood was the best? I had mentioned that nylon with moly was better than nylon(it is) I turn all my burnishing pieces to fit dremmel threaded studs with hand ground metal lathe bits. The coco bolo wood turns like bronze and threads equaly well. I made a couple of pieces and put them to work on current projects. WOW no comparison.....coco bolo is by far the best and the results are outstanding. I believe its the oil in the wood and the fact it runs much cooler. My foreman says all the brains can't be in one head and this proves it. A bigger disc on a drill press or whatever works equaly well.....but so much slower....cheers.....Topcat
  6. Here is a tip that is one of the best tools I have ever used. Do you use a utility knife with break off blades? The wide ones are awkward and the thin ones don't seem to cut very well....until you buy the follows blades.....Tajima 30* snap off utility cutter blades.....they are so sharp they will cut you for touching them and go thru leather like butter. I think they work so well because of the 30* angle. Don't buy 60* blades as they are not near as effective. The blades will fit a standard knife but the break off front angle is incorrect and the vendor sell a slick knife that goes along with this blade. Remember 30*. YOU WILL FIND THEM ON EBAY.....try them.....you will never use anything else.....also give them a lot of respect....they are sharper than a razor blade....cheers.....Topcat
  7. I like that thought too! It's the old archer and the bow argument.....it takes both....cheers.....Tocat Try the 1/2 diamond drum sander (Ebay) It will enlighten you and you will never use the sanding drum again....I'll try cocobolo.....topcat
  8. I was having a conversation with a "leather bender" a couple of days ago. He is without a doubt a skilled craftsman......but his ideas are locked in another time and place. He proudly announced that leather benders do not use power tools, dremmels, sanding equipment and sharpen their blades by hand.....WOW! I am a tool and die maker and I use every tool I can find that works and sharpen my blades on a hollow grinder with zero tolerance machine jigs. I thought about this post before posting it and do not wish to arouse the ire of traditionalist leather workers.....but for those of you who want to produce great work without all the hand intensive work.....here are a couple of tips. The 1" upright sander with a Trizact belt in about 60-80 grit will shape your glue joints cleaner than a razor knife and for adjusting curves and rounding corners they are the best. You work from 1 side and then remove the leather burr from the other side and the result is super. Now comes the dremmel tool.....fitted with 1/2 and 3/8 mandrels there are 3 great grinding sleeves available......Trizact......carbide......and last but absolutely best....DIAMOND. This will edge leather, adjust a radius, shape corners....etc and runs cool. Most of this is available on Ebay and Google will find the rest. Shop from home on you computer. If you make you own edge burnishing tools....try nylon that is made with Moly already imbedded (small parts .com).....you won't believe the difference. These are just a few of many ideas available to make you leather working easier and you results better. If you are a tradionalist.....great! Cheers....Topcat
  9. The vacuum forming takes about 3 minutes.....cutting of the tabs 2 minutes. I allow the 2 haves to dry, check the fit, glue and sew. On smooth lined holsters and sheaths the result is awesome. I only use Kangaroo or kipskin linings....no suede....Topcat
  10. My leatherworker name is Topcat and I am new to the site. I cannot find my control panel and would like to upload some photos and check my stats. Please explain.....Tim Name: Tim Cantwell UserName: Topcat IP Address: 65.15.54.123 Email Address: tcantwell@lakecentermarina.com
  11. Yes it is still available! Excellent machine....better yet.....come sew on it. We are very close, about 1 hour on the turnpike. I sent you an email with my cell phone number....call me and we can talk....cheers...Tim
  12. The tabs allow for exact positioning (angle and depth....etc) on pancake type holsters. After I remove tabs, I can cut and form belt slots (all my holsters are hidden belt slot type) then I glue around the gun form for perfect alignment and finnish sew, edge etc. i will send some pictures of the HK 45 compact series I am running now when they are complete
  13. They want 268.00 to box and put on a pallet and 336.00 frt. Seems like a lot, but I have no way to handle it myself. Maybe you can have someone come and get it....I'll help load it etc....let me know....Tim
  14. I will check shipping.....but it must be on a skid and I have to have this done......expensive? I am located in Palm Beach Gardens Fl. It's not much of a drive from Mobile.....just a thought. I'll take cash, money order or a personal check as long as it clears before item is picked up or shipped. We can also do wire transfer? Your choice. If you pick it up you can try it before you buy it. It's setup and ready to sew....thanks...Tim
  15. I make high end lined holsters and sheaths.....all are lined with veg tanned Kangaroo skin. The gun or knife release can't be matched with any other lining. Here is the method I use and so far it is flawless in the finished product. Take your pattern and cut out your holster form using 7-8oz veg tanned leather with tabs to hold form in perfect position while forming. I use Herman Oak....whatever. Now cut out the Kangaro lining ......about 1/2'' bigger than the holster blank. Glue the lining in the blank.....I use Barge.....whatever. Trim the lining to the blank using a very sharp razor knife.....I use 60* Swiss blades....available on Ebay. On the blank I leave a tab on both sides of a fold over form and on both sides of a pancake form. These will be removed later. I use blue or red gun forms, but the actual gun or knife can be used if encased in shrink wrap. Sew the tabs together so the form fits perfectly. Wet the leather and lining to the point where it is very pliable and insert into a vacuum cloths storage bage....available at Walmart. Fit the bag valve with 1/4" nylon water line using poly tape.....whatever. Put standard silk release film top and bottom (available under vacuum bagging supplies, Google) zip closed and turn on vacuum pump. I use a simple vacuum pump used to bleed brakes there are any number of small vacuum pumps and configurations with valves, manifolds, etc on Ebay. I let the pump run about 10 minutes and will do some light boning on certain areas of the holster. I also check the pull down carefully and if it is not exactly what I want.....break the vacuum and reset.....no harm. Break the vacuum and remove the holster. I remove the gun or form used and allow to dry. When mostly dry.....I cut the threads on the tabs and open joined tab areas to finish drying. Then remove tabs. The resulting holster will be a perfect fit....every time. Just to mention.....snaps, some types of belt loops, etc. must be installed prior to gluing lining. Also I sew the lining edges prior to vacuum forming. I glue all my work prior to finish sewing and sealing. This area of the finished product is subject to much debate. I find that because my work is repetitive I find the best method for each item and it varies depending what I am making. The finished product is the ultimate grade card on your work. If I can be of any additional help you can email me at tcantwell@lakecentermarina.com. Thanks for reading and I hope this helps.....vacuum forming is the answer for perfect custom work. Topcat
  16. I would like to buy a Krebs Leather Splitter, in good condition. I will pay TOP DOLLAR for a good one! If anybody has one they will part with....please contact Topcat at tcantwell@lakecentermarina.com
  17. Artisan Toro 3200 sewing machine, 4 hours, complete package, in perfect condition. Sews great....light or extra heavy. I switched to an awl and needle machine. I did this because I am sewing very small margins of lined goods and needed perfect vertical top and bottom alignment. The Toro 3200 is the newest version and very easy to sew on.....the awl and needle is somewhat difficult. The machine is set up with 207 bonded nylon and can be seen and sewed on at my location in Palm Beach Gardens, FL. 1,500.00 plus shipping....prefer pickup if possible. Thanks for looking......Topcat... tcantwell@lakecentermarina.com
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