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About TomG

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  • Birthday March 17

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Buford, GA

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Belts, and Bracelets, Dog collars and leashes
  • Interested in learning about
    Anything for improving my skills

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  1. I've been using the Dollar store acrylic floor wax (50/50) for a long while now and had good results. However, it is no longer carried in the stores around us. The other big box stores do not carry any products labeled as acrylic floor wax. They have finishes (clear) and multisurface and so on. Does anyone have suggestions for another resolene replacement?
  2. I make lots of straps and found that Leather Balm with Atom Wax (Fiebings product) works well. I apply liberally with a piece of sheep's wool that I have trimmed about 1/2 height. Apply with a firm, circular motion. I apply the back and then the front. I then take it an roll the strap bent over a smooth edge of the bench or a round bar to work the fibers. It will usually go from stiff and dry to floppy and flacid!. I've also had similar results with MInk Oil Paste. This is done after tooling, dying etc. If the leather is super dry, I'll lightly oil it with some NFO first. Then the tooling, dying, etc.
  3. Thanks Wiz. I do have an airbrush that I can do gradual fades with.. If I can find it. I remembered block dye technique which actually worked better for the streaked, ragged appearance she wanted. But, my original question had to do with mixing colors of dye to get a different color. As in red and yellow make orange, type of mixing. I found the dye online though I still need to find time to experiment with color mixing.
  4. I don't know about removing your tokonole, but lemon juice is often used to kill mildew from leather. You may just have to experiment with this. I might suggest that you somehow block the project and not have to hold it. Or, just wait until one side dries before doing the other.
  5. Thanks. that's what I was looking for.
  6. Well, some time ago, I recall seeing some info on making a slide-on for the cylinder arm to make it like a flat machine. I can not find it. Does anyone remember it or what the title MIGHT be? I've searched using a variety of word, with no luck. Thanks
  7. I got an email notice of your post wit some mix info. Did you delete it or did the forum have a memory loss <g>? I was going to ask if you had a basic idea of ratios for a starting point?
  8. Thanks. I've used this technique and love the look. But in this case, it's a linear, streaky, splotchy, fade from medium green to a washed out, almost natural with a tinge of leather. Same with the Maroon/Chestnut combo (2 products). The green is not really the issue. The Maroon was. But Frodo pointed out eBay and I've got some coming. The chestnut, they may just have to live with a saddle tan or other shade. This customer is having me try to match colors off pictures she's seen online. I've already explained the facts of leather life to her. She's pretty flexible and she's a consistent customer as she orders large numbers of another product every couple of months. So, I'm willing to go the extra mile for her. Ahh, the life of a leathercrafter.
  9. Is there a tutorial somewhere or can someone help me out here? I am trying to dye some straps in Maroon and in Chestnut. I can not find either color in Fiebings. I did some testing using multiple coats of diluted Oxblood and got a sort of Maroonish color, but not a true Maroon. The main issue is that the customer want the dye to be variegated/faded dark to washout and striated/streaked. I know of no way to do this with having to apply multiple coats of dye. Suggestions or advise? Thanks
  10. Here's a couple of links. https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?250610-How-to-round-over-the-end-of-dowels https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?226647-Rounding-over-dowel-rods-revisited-with-new-jig The second one has photos of a jig that he discusses. You'll have to join the group to see them. Jigs are key to repetition work. I used to make dog agility equipment out of PVC. I used 3/4" Tee's and had to bore them out slightly to slide over the pipe. Then I had to cut them in half exactly. To do this, I had to make jigs and fixtures. Plus I had to grind down wood bits to just shave the insides of those Tee's. Good luck
  11. I have used brass plated double cap rivets for years now, but now need to use the solid brass for one of my customers. My question is, how strong are they compared to the plated rivets. They will be putting a lot of force on them. Thanks
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