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About TomG

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  • Birthday March 17

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  • Location
    Buford, GA

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Belts, and Bracelets, Dog collars and leashes
  • Interested in learning about
    Anything for improving my skills

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  1. Thanks to all. Yeah, I figured I'd wind up using layers. I was trying to avoid that because the collar has stamping on it, and the design is going to make it hard/impossible to sew the edges. So, they will likely be glued only. I'm going to do some experimenting later today. I may have to widen the collar and put a grove and stitches outside of the scrolls.
  2. It's been a minute since I had to decorate with the post style crystal rivets, but I have a customer who wants them on a collar for her dog. It's going to be 8-9 oz and the crystals I've seen have short posts. I need some ideas of how to do this. First, does anyone know of a source for rivets with longer posts? 1 solution I think of is to use a thinner leather with a backing to add thickness, but I haven't done any backed items using anything thicker than goat/lamb or 1/2oz VT. Since this will be a fairly short collar (15" neck size) I would think using anything thicker would stiffen it up too much. The other idea I had is to somehow punch each rivet hole and then, somehow countersink the back of the hole to let the cap seat the rivet properly. My question is how to do that so I still have enough leather to seat the cap and not pull through to the front. So, any and all suggestions are appreciated.
  3. I really don't know. I have only used Eco-Flo once, that I can recall, and it was not on an item that I needed anything blocked out. But, considering that it is basically a rubber coating, I would assume that it would. Now, I only used it on stamped lettering and can tell you that you do need to get it down into the depressions around the letters. Otherwise, the dye can seep in at the edges and stain the letters. It IS tedious on longer lettering strings.
  4. No, The liquid latex that I mentioned will block all of the dyes. You may need a coat or two, but it will work. One caveat is that if you are using it on things like stamps letter, such as in my photo, you need to make sure that it gets down into the grooves around the stamping. I haven't used these brands and my local store no longer carries the one I used, but either these or similar ones should work. Just do some research and experiments would tell you. https://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/HX-LIQUID FRISKET.pdf https://www.michaels.com/product/lq-acry-maskng-fluid-118mlus-10648713?cm_mmc=PLASearch-_-google-_-MICH_Shopping_US_N_Art+Supplies_N_PMAX_BOPIS_N-_-&Kenshoo_ida=&kpid=go_cmp-18514199888_adg-_ad-__dev-c_ext-_prd-10648713&gclid=Cj0KCQjwr82iBhCuARIsAO0EAZwjrxgSAiYqkkbRnIc14WS2qm2aH5Uq3lDSGbgKO9aNLxDJD4Q0xroaAvjSEALw_wcB
  5. I've never heard of 'acrylic dye'. Acrylics are paint. Paint is not meant to be used with resist. Resist CAN and IS used to block both Fiebings dye and Pro dye. Do a search in the DYE section of the differences and you'll get a bunch of info on it. I use resist all the time. I don't the the Fiebings resist, but I've used both Resolene and Acrylic floor as resists successfully. Now, if you are applying your dye with a dauber, sponge or other wipe-on method, it usually works well. With dip dye methods, results are not as pronounced as a rule, because the immersion in the vat of dye saturates it. Also, if you do a wipe of the item after dipping, you an get smear in all directions, as you will be rubbing the dye onto the resist aggresively and resist onto the dye.. I do most of my stuff via dip, and if I need to remove some dye, I blot it off with a cotton cloth, quickly. Just understand that the blocking effect can be suble. Is you want a total blockout, the only thing that I've found is a liquid Latex that you have to paint on. It's a little pricey unless you will use it a lot, and it stinks like ammonia. Good luck
  6. Try sewingmachines.com. Mel has been in the biz for a long time and used to have a whole bin, full of them. Now, they recently moved so they may have scrapped them, but it's worth a phone call.
  7. The back and edges look exactly like I need. Thanks. Did you have to dilute it?
  8. The only white leather dye I've ever sen is the Fiebings version and it not only stinks to high heaven, it does not appear to be an alcohol based dye. So, I'm not sure how that would work. But, in theory, it makes sense.. what did you use? I'll search for that Orions Calf Pin. Thanks
  9. I've been using highly diluted Fiebings Red to try to get good pink, for years. All o can get is a light, washed-out looking color before the red takes over. Angelus has a Light Rose that they say can be Pink. Does anyone have experience with it and can you post photos of the pinks that you have gotten?
  10. Glad to hear that you have success. I make lots of straps.. Belts, dog collars, etc. I dip dye 99% of them. I have Rubbermaid, seal-able tubs for each of the main dyes that I use. I stir before use as the dyestuffs can settle. Then, I drag the strap through it slowly (about 1" per second), and hang it to dry. I have a rack that hangs from my garage ceiling. I punch a small hole in the scrap end of the strap to hang it from, before dyeing. Except for black, I have very little rub-off.
  11. After lots of trial and error, I found that if I take an old Phillips Head screwdriver and from the back side, punch it into the cap with a mallet. Smack it good. If done right, it will pop the cap off and in many cases, leave you with just the post. If not, than all you have to deal with is the internal part of the cap and can peel it off with some side cutter pliers. No damage to the leather.
  12. 1) Yup - it does take a little more dye, but if you have to keep going over areas to get uniform coverage, I'm not so sure that this is valid. But, in either case, it shouldn't be a lot. The second reason I dip, it that I primarily make straps, such as dog collar, leashes, belts and bracelet type of goods. Third reason is that I often get batch orders that need to be uniform and dip dying is the way to go. 2) I'm not sure why you would want all the pigments to not go into the the leather, unless you wanted a fade, highlighted or variegated effect. In those cases, I do use a sponge or even block dye the piece. 3) Yes.. sort of. You can still use antiquing with a dip dyed piece. I use Leather Balm after the dye dries, let it dry, buff it out and then apply the antiquing gel. But yeah, for multi-color, if you are painted with dyes, like Al Stoehlman or Peter Main, it's the only way. I do use a lot of paints for stamped letters and such. In most cases I use the small needle tipped bottles to apply the surface and a different color to the channels. Dilution is about the only way that I have found to get a true color with dip, and even sponges. My first attempts as dauber and sponges using Saddle Tan resulted in a medium-dark brown. I have airbrushes, but seldom use them. It's mainly a lack of a spray booth for now. But, it can produce some terrific effects. The only drawback is very little penetration, so I've found it prone to scratching more than other methods.
  13. I started out with sponges and daubers many years ago, bug now, 99% of my stuff is dip dyed. More consistent color, a bit more penetration depth and overall, easier. I use the long, tight sealing rubbermaid tubs to store it. And for besthorsegear, you will find that almost all of the Fiebings dyes will need to be diluted to show the true color. At least in my and many others experiences. Some, as much as 75% dilution.
  14. I used the same as a sealer. Thinned 50/50 with water. But, I stopped using that as I had a couple of reports that the paint flaked off with flexing. Now, I never was able to determine if it was from that or if I missed something on surface prep. I generally use a Q-Tip and some DA to clean the letters and let that dry thoroughly. I've also been known to lightly scuff or sand the tops of the letters to give the paint a place to grip better.
  15. What can I use to 'harden' acrylic paint? I use it to highlight stamped letters on dog collars. I realize that no paint will withstand scratching and such, but I'd like to make it as durable as possible.
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