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TomG

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About TomG

  • Rank
    Leatherworker
  • Birthday March 17

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  • Website URL
    http://www.legacyleathercraft.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Buford, GA

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Belts, and Bracelets, Dog collars and leashes
  • Interested in learning about
    Anything for improving my skills

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  1. Consew 227R-2 Hi all. I know to hold the top and bottom thread for the first couple of stitches when sewing to avoid birds nests. I don't know why, but I've learned to do it anyway, LOL. My question is this. Is there a device or attachment that I can use to just loop those threads around quickly to free up my hands to guide the leather and worj the reverse lever at the same time? I currently use a large paper clip attached to the light pole with a couple of rubber bands. Maybe something that attaches to the back of the arm that we could just loop into it quickly? But, when I have 100+ straps to sew the edges on, it adds a considerable amount of time to the operation Thanks
  2. Yes. I've only had a slight issue when I used some 12oz saddle skirting, but it worked fine. Just pull it out slower and let it uncool as you do so.
  3. I've dip dyed 7 foot straps for years now. I use a Rubbermaid sealable tub that's about 10" long and 3-4" wide. I fill it with full strength black (1 tub for each color) and then coil the strap up and place it in the tank. I let it sit for 20-30 second or until the bubbles stop. I then wrap a rag or paper towel around one end and draw the strap through it, wiping the excess off and I go. I then hang it from a simple rack I made using a 1/2" thick x 1" wide piece of lathing strip that I've driven small nails halfway through. This way, I can hang up to 50 straps on 25 nails, one to each side. Now, for colors other than black, I do it differently. I hold one end of the strap in one hand and the rest up it wadded up in the other. I feed it down and through the dye, gathering the dyed end and releasing the undyed end as it passes through. I time it so each section of strap is only in the dye about 5 seconds. the key is to not stop the motion. It does take some practice. If you stop the motion for more than a second or so, you can get uneven coverage. Or, mix your dyes so that a soak of 1t5 - 30 seconds gives the final color that you like. It's more pronounced on lighter browns and such. Play with it and once you develop the techniques, you'll daub very few strraps again.
  4. Do double caps fall into that category?
  5. Yes, it is. Not enough though. I have had to skive the the piece of the strap that I fold into a handle, but the customer isn't happy with how 'thin' it makes it. Yeah, I checked Ali as well. This is a long-time, repeat customer. I have used Chicago screws since day one. He has had some of the screws strip out (threads) early on and wants to now use rivets, as he feels they will be stronger. I've always felt that the failed screws were a defective batch as they all happened in the same time frame. No failures in a few years. Plus, I think he likes the smaller head of the rivet. Chicago screws actually worked well, but were a PITA to install. I had to use 1/2" on some parts and 3/8" on others. Plus, 12 identical pieces might need the 1/2" or the 3/8" depending on the leather thickness. They have to be snug with no slop through the leather. Since the Chicago screws give me longer reach, the available sizes always worked. I am not familiar with saddlers rivets by that name. What are they ?
  6. Fred and Latigo. I took a look. Unfortunately, they are both a tad too short. The 15mm would barely poke through the stack of leather. 16mm or 5/8" would be the absolute minimum to hold properly
  7. Hahaha. Yeah, I learned metric a long time ago. I actually like it better as it's much easier to scale things.
  8. I am looking for the below rivets without much success. I need double cap, solid brass that have posts longer 1/2". I have tried OTB, Buckle Guy, Beiler's, Tandy, CDW, McMaster-Carr, Hanson and a number of the sites that pop up on a Google search. Do any of you have a source that might have something? Oh, and no, I can't use copper rivets. Bummer. Thanks
  9. I have an arbor and a press to do snaps. As others said, the arbor will likely need boring out. The snap press needs to have a hole that will fit the snap dies. I bought a press and dies for double caps, line 20 and line 24s, and they have dozens of other dies for $30. Check www.goldstartool.com
  10. I've been using the Dollar store acrylic floor wax (50/50) for a long while now and had good results. However, it is no longer carried in the stores around us. The other big box stores do not carry any products labeled as acrylic floor wax. They have finishes (clear) and multisurface and so on. Does anyone have suggestions for another resolene replacement?
  11. Dip dye your leather to avoid the blotches. Works like a champ
  12. I make lots of straps and found that Leather Balm with Atom Wax (Fiebings product) works well. I apply liberally with a piece of sheep's wool that I have trimmed about 1/2 height. Apply with a firm, circular motion. I apply the back and then the front. I then take it an roll the strap bent over a smooth edge of the bench or a round bar to work the fibers. It will usually go from stiff and dry to floppy and flacid!. I've also had similar results with MInk Oil Paste. This is done after tooling, dying etc. If the leather is super dry, I'll lightly oil it with some NFO first. Then the tooling, dying, etc.
  13. Thanks Wiz. I do have an airbrush that I can do gradual fades with.. If I can find it. I remembered block dye technique which actually worked better for the streaked, ragged appearance she wanted. But, my original question had to do with mixing colors of dye to get a different color. As in red and yellow make orange, type of mixing. I found the dye online though I still need to find time to experiment with color mixing.
  14. I don't know about removing your tokonole, but lemon juice is often used to kill mildew from leather. You may just have to experiment with this. I might suggest that you somehow block the project and not have to hold it. Or, just wait until one side dries before doing the other.
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