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Everything posted by suem

  1. Poked around in the holes beneath the bobbin case with a pin last night, nothing popped out. Took the magnet too (pretty strong magnet too) fished around, didn't get anything. So next it sounds like I start poking around under the arm. I think I've seen the screw you are talking about on the diagrams. Aggh I had to turn down a couple of patch sewing (on leather vests) jobs already. I hope this screw is readily available. But if there was a broken screw in the arm, would the case rotate if the wheel is turned the other direction? I know you're not supposed to do that (turn the wheel the wrong dirction) so I'm not doing that a lot.
  2. No spouse, just a big iguana who would probably just turn around and stare at me and the offending noise for a minute and go back to sleep. So is it hard to set these up or is it just a matter of popping in cams? I assume the parts are available as well?
  3. Right now it won't come out or go back in. Since it's in the upper arm of the 29k 72 (that holds the needle bar onto the arm) I'm terrified of stressing the metal in the arm if I bang it too hard. I'll probably need to investigate your idea of drilling it out, I have a good drill and some titanium bits. I don't suppose heating it a bit may help at this point? I did order some new ones after the original one got stuck of course. I'm also wondering if the pin not going in may have something to do with the parts involved, it's the pin that holds the needle bar to the "trapeze(?)" that goes up and down on top of the machine, it was tough to get everything in just the right position all lined up. All the parts are replaceable but stil.... Anyway thanks.
  4. but am I right in thinking I have to take that bottom plate off to access bottom of the shuttle compartment? I've got one of those pickup tools will try that tonight.
  5. I had the same problem on my 72, tap from back to front, reinstall front to back. Mine came right out a couple of whacks, but getting it back in .... now that was a different issue, I couldn't get it in all the way and I was afraid I'd break something or mushroom it so far so good nothing's gone south, I hope, and maybe I'm dumb to hope this that eventually vibration and use will loosen it up and it'll either come out or I'll be able to get it in position.
  6. I was pleasantly sewing along on my 29k 72 and something went "thunk," I pulled the bobbin case out and the screw was missing from the little spring on the side (tension spring?). After a little poking around with a pin, half the screw popped out the bottom of the arm but right now if I rotate the wheel towards me the shuttle/hook doesn't rotate, if I go backwards a little bit it does that but will not go forward (and yes I pulled the needle to be sure that wasn't just out of alignment). I'm thinking the other piece of the screw is still in there jamming up the works. From what I can see it looks like you have to take the bottom plate off to have any hope of removing the shuttle/hook from the machine. If this was on my modern machine I'd suspect I'd tripped the safety on the hook but I don't know if this thing even has such an animal. Ideas gratefully appreciated, going to have to unbolt it to get a screwdriver underneath since I don't have a proper stand for it (free hanging arm). My local industrial guy doesn't seem real thrilled to deal with it and I don't have 80.00 for him to try either if I can avoid it. I'll also need one of those dinky screws for the case and I'd like to get a second large bobbin case to for backups. Thanks for the help!!!!
  7. If this has been asked before I apologize. I'm doing quite a lot of sewing involving straps and handles, right now I do the x type box stitching to hold the strap on for strength manually on my patcher or my other leather machine. This takes a lot of time, I could get more done if it was a bit more automated and thus take on larger jobs with a more tight delivery schedule. Yes I've seen the 5000+ dollar computerized tackers, wish I could hit the lottery and buy one. Yes I've also seen used ones in the 2500.00 range, still a bit tight for the beer budget. I'm certain that someone had box x tackers before computers came about .... I've seen a few older singers advertised as box x machines but I'm not having luck findout what they can do etc. I've heard there are machines that use cams instead of a computer...that is ideal to me, no worries about sensitive electronics in the florida humidity (not to mention static electricity in the winter). So I need the advice of the experienced on what sort of box x machines are out there that are not computerized and what their capabilities are and some idea of what I may be able to buy one for. I am doing primarily one and two inch strap material, heavy nylon and leather, may have a need for 4 inch straps in the future. So what's out there? Can I please get some manufacturer names and model numbers...I just have no clue what search words to use in google not finding much under box x, or box tacker. All help appreciated.
  8. If anyone comes across one of the original metal treadle/motor tables for the singer 29k series (I think they're all the same base I have a 29k 72) i would love to buy it from you. I live in Florida, if it's up the east coast anywhere I'll come pick it up..west coast we'd have to discuss shipping or freight options. Just want my baby to be complete. Thanks for looking! I'm not rolling in cash but I'm willing to pay a fair price.
  9. This is a little off topic but relevant to the machine. I take it this is not made anymore? What a fantastic idea, a pneumatic sewing machine. I guess if I want one it's going to be used, are parts still pretty available? Thanks.
  10. I'm in Florida too, guess I never considered a sail shop but now that you mention it..... Aren't the industrial tables for this designed to be stood up for use? I.e. these aren't made for a sitting operator are they? At least the ones sold with it aren't designed for a sitting operator......
  11. that looks yummy. I'd love to have a treadle for my 29k 72 just because sometimes I am in places with no AC available to plug into. The industrial stands are rare alone probably since they were usually sold with the head and not separate. I saw one on ebay a couple months ago he wanted two hundred for it as a opening bid... don't know what he got. Your idea looks a lot more practical and the treadle base you used is a ton more available too. I found one online place that wanted 70 for each side piece, 70 for the top and then more for the pedal and the mechanism...they're freaking nuts in my book but I guess if you want it bad enough you'd cough it up. Your flat bed adapter table piece is great too, some of the new ones made by consew have that feature, does make em more versatile.
  12. I just use reverse on the machine if machine sewn. If hand sewn I run the thread between two holes several times and knot as close to one hole as a I can...of course find the most inconspicuous place you can for this method.
  13. Finally got the screws out!!!!! Yeah, gonna pour me a rum and coke!!! The "put the flatblade in the slot (or what's left of it) and hit it with a hammer" to hopefully cut the slot more deeply method finally worked. Of course the torching and the pb probably all helped too and it wasn't just one thing. All my nice jewelers screwdrivers didn't do it, it was the dollar tree cheapie set that finally did it in addition to the hammer...I can see why the last owner didn't bother, it was a PITA; or maybe they didn't think the parts were available, their loss. I'm considering getting the bearing assembly on the top of the machine for the butterfly. I know bearings can get flat spots on them and might as well change it now if that's even a remote possibility. The butterfly "was" turning smoothly when I pulled the needle bar now it's back to binding again...thus suspicion of bearing. I didn't find any pieces of the spring which I "assume" would have popped out with the needle bar (at least I hope). Any thoughts on how to tell if that bearing is bad? THANKS FOR ALL THE GREAT SUGGESTIONS AND THE GREAT HELP!!!!
  14. Back on the stiff butterfly matter When I pulled the needle bar it moves freely, played a bit with it today oiling it and it's moving stiff again. I don't see anything down inside..I suppose it could just be gunky in there but I've dropped so much oil and pb blaster in there I can't see a speck of gunk surviving all that I noticed a "revolving head bearing" that is the funky shaped structure on the top of the machine where the tension discs etc are located on diagrams in the parts manual I have. Any chance the bearing in there could have a flat spot or be gunked up inside that? I've always wondered how sealed bearings got lubricated?
  15. Lowes carries, Bostitch (stanley) Pin punch set 1.5,3,4,5,6,8 mm flat tipped punches, 12.95 for the set, seemed to work great.
  16. Believe me it's in the list of possibilities.............. I know when to stop, not ready to give up completely yet but not from from it
  17. Do you have a web url to a good set of pin punches, no one around me in pinellas county carries anything except the flat headed variety, I "think" you mean punches that are caved in at the tip so they don't flatten a pin with a rounded top. I can't find those around here, northern tools has them but they are huge for working on cars etc. nothing small enough for this.
  18. Ok after much staring at the instructions and looking at diagrams and asking questions of a friend whose dad was an industrial mechanic when he was young, I've got the needle bar out of the machine. As usual, I have this tendency to overcomplicate things until I do it the first time. It was really nothing once I could associate the parts you were talking about with the instructions. You know...if the stupid little screws on the tension spring weren't stuck as they apparently are on mine, you really don't seem to have to pull the needle bar all the way out. If you take off the needle holder and the foot (and you probably don't have to take the foot off) the needle bar will drop down far enough to reach the screws without pulling the bar (you only have to knock that one big pin out on top of the needle bar and I found a set of punches at lowes to do that job easily) but I can also see the wisdom in pulling the needle bar completely and lubricating it while you are in there. My spring screws are frozen in there so hard I can't find a jeweler's screwdriver that will move them (and I have quite a collection). I'm afraid to screw with it too much for fear of stripping them out and really being screwed. I've messed a little with stubborn screws in the past but these are so tiny...afraid to use the usual methods. Going to get some blaster and hope that may free them. I guess if I can't get them out I'm looking at a needle bar...any idea what a large bobbin needle bar for the 29k 72 is running? I saw one on ebay for a hundred bucks (ouch). Now that the bar is dropped the butterfly turns freely...I found that the butterfly spring on top was a bit broken on one end....I hope when it goes back together it then moves freely. Any thoughts on getting those two terrifically tiny and apparently quite frozen spring screws out? Who can sell me a couple of sets of those screws? My british place has them but the shipping is silly for a few bucks worth of parts if I can't get them over here...which I think I can because I think I saw somebody talking about these screws. Thanks.
  19. Maybe you're right, I guess if I don't get the terminology I'm at a disadvantage aren't I. The man I have down the street is a wizened old industrial mechanic; been fixing them for years. I'll ask him but I bet he can handle it, now if I can just handle his fee... I got the parts so he wouldn't have to mess with getting them, maybe he'll be kinder on the bill. Thanks for everything folks.
  20. I'm confused about which pins have to come out???? I've decided to try this. I'm having a little trouble with your terminology. Can you please send a couple of pictures of the pins that have to come out? I understand the big one that attaches the "trapeze(???)" aka take up lever (or is the take up lever the thing on top of the trapeze that thread is threaded through?) to the needle bar but I don't understand which other pin has to come out...i.e. take up lever???? Drift punch...I'm assuming this tool has other names? Lowes doesn't carry anything called a drift pin punch neither does harbor freight. Northern tools has a drift pin punch set but they're huge and they want almost two hundred for the set. I found a "punch" set at lowes for 12.99 in looking at pictures I believe this is the same thing. Back on the subject of the sticky butterfly...I hope when I get in here that I find the pieces of that thread spring jammed up in there or that I can finally get to whatever is gunking up the head but if that doesn't fix it..... I saw something called a "butterfly friction spring" in the parts list. I grabbed one at the same time I got the thread springs, was wondering if this could be the sticky butterfly problem and if it is what sort of a PITA is it to fix that. Since I'm going to have that all apart anyway might as well do that too. It wasn't an expensive part, like five bucks. I am so anxious to get this running right, I've got a pair of fishing boots that fit me great other than my calves expanded when I started Kung Fu so they're too tight around my thunder calves anymore, I'm going to slit the side and add some marine vinyl to expand the top and seal the new seams, may not be as water tight as before but I don't really care too much about that as long as they fit. I couldn't figure out how to sew that patch in but this should handle that famously--this is what it's for after all, LOL. Thanks so very much again for all the help.
  21. When I learned to make medieval leather water bottles/canteens whatever you'd like to call them. We were taught to soak the leather bottle thoroughly, fill with clean sandbox sand, put it in the sun to dry. In the case of these bottles the outside was sealed with paraffin. With the sand still inside and the bottle now dry we corked the top and dipped the bottle in the liquid paraffin, when that was cool and the bottle quite hard we dumped the sand and then went to the next step of sealing the inside with beeswax, or a couple of other possibilities up to envirotex if you wanted to be able to put hot liquids in your creation. I don't know if that helped but I hope it did. I agree when you wet leather you seem to lose a bit of the fine details of your artwork.
  22. I think my observation is the same as yours. Compared to the bobbin for my other industrial these are downright tiny. bobbins. I've got a29K 72 which is supposed to be big bobbin, the bobbins that came with it look like the big bobbins I've seen on ebay...the shuttle for big and small is available but a touch expensive (50 bucks). I've seen the wires for 5.00 each on ebay...of course then there's shipping. The best way I can describe them is as one of those cording gadgets with the eye that lets you thread cording through a casing, on the 29k you feed the thread down the needle bar which I assume is how this guy can sew 360 degrees.
  23. My thoughts as well. I've got four or five 29K books and part printouts that I've found and not one of them shows that t thing in the picture. When mine arrived the front tensioner (used in darning) wasn't present at all replaced that. I think it will be of limited use but I like all my toys to work all the way as they're supposed to...heaven knows could have a use tommorrow for it. I haven't seen or read anything that indicates differences in any of the production runs...so that's a mystery to me anyway. Maybe that t thing was an add-on accessory (?????) thanks for the responses. If you're interest in purchasing the parts I can send you the url for the british web store I found them in (shipping is 15 bucks, the parts were about ten total=thirty bucks and they would not ship cheaper (agggh) no one in the US seems to carry the post part of that assembly I checked a number of places over here first). As for that screw part being left in the head there are "broken screw" remover thingy gadgets you can get at autozone or harbor freight. You basically drill a hole, put this gadget in there that self threads opposite your threads and you twist it out like a regular screw, I know there are other ways. I had an old pfaff with a screw broken off in it, very easy just used a titananium drill bit and "very carefully" drilled into the broke screw till it literally fell apart and I was able to yank it out of there. I'm sure others on here can give you a dozen ways to get that out of there if you wish. I found the post part unobtainable in the US you can get the rest, the disks the spring the knob but the post no one had except this one place in britain that had them in their web store (mis labled but the part number was right and when it showed up it was the right part). Sue.
  24. When my 29K 72 arrived the front tensioner was completely gone (pin disks, spring, nut, all of it). With some hunting located the parts in Britain..so now I've got the tensioner but from reading in here and looking at some pictures....the top of the head on my 29k72 doesn't seem to have the "t" that rises above the head that apparently has something to do with the darning function. I probably won't use the darning a lot but I like my toys to be fully functional. I look at manuals (though at dmittedly for some earlier models) and nothing seems to be mentioned about extra equipment for darning it sounds like all of them should be able to darn, period. This picture shows the t shaped object that pokes up on top of the head area...mine doesn't have that...if it has to be there can that be added easily?
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