Goldshot Ron
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Posts posted by Goldshot Ron
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Tom,
I wish I could offer some timesaving tips, but everything seems to take longer than I would expect. I didn't mention rubbing in conditioning after rubbing the edges, or sewing a loop to put around the reins. Ugh...now I have to go make Christmas tomales. Merry Christmas.
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They look real good Tom. To answer DieselTech's question, when I make split reins I use harness leather also (but the natural color). After cutting the reins and edging, I but an end of the rein into my bench vise, apply saddle soap to a piece of canvas, and rub the "hell" out of the edges. The reins are dampened and the rubbing will stretch the reins.
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Hey Mick,
First, what type of tree are you using for your saddle? An Aussie saddle would be different from a western tree. If you are using a western style tree, my main approach is to locate the center of gravity for the rider. This would be your lowest point of the seat. Now, for a man, your seat would be narrower than for a woman. And the woman's seat would be a little flatter. With that side, what you wrote is correct: everyone has an opinion about what is comfortable. The dish in the rear of the seat is important to remember: a flat butt doesn't need as much dish as a round/plump butt.
Ron
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I see no one has replied to your question; so, I will offer you my thoughts for what they are worth. Pre-made strainers may or may not fit your saddle trees; I have had this experience. Every maker has a different pattern to their strainer, and again, these patterns may or may not fit your tree. I make my own using 22 gauge galvanized sheet metal. Use a piece of light cardboard or poster board, and lie it over your seat. From the bottom of the tree, with a pencil draw the opening between the bars, swell, and cantle on the sheet of cardboard. Note on the cardboard where the stirrup leather notches are located. Now, from the marking measure out 1 to 1 1/2 inches on the bar side and the cantle side. (This will be your nailing location.) Before cutting out the three side of the poster board, make sure that you will have enough material to fit. The swell side where the hand hole will be is the tricky part. This varies between the different styles of trees, and the room that you will need for your hand to go into the hole comfortably. At this point I will let you figure out what you like, and how to determine this design. Some people cut the stirrup leather notches in an arch design, some cut it out rectangularly; this again is your preference. The rear of this arch ends at the rear of the stirrup leathers notch.
good luck, Ron
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Here's another tip that I just learned yesterday. If you change the size of your needle, make sure you change to the oppropriate size hook shim. I had been using a size 25 needle, but I change the thread and changed to a size 23 needle. On my test piece, the stitchline was good. When I started sewing my project, on tight turns the needle would jam and break. After a time of cussing, checking timing, and cleaning and oiling, I thought to check the shime. It fixed the problem. This is something that clone owners do not have to worry about.
Ron
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I could not find the YouTube video. But, here is how to tighten the tension on the stitch lever. (Lift the lever up to the maximum reverse position. Under the lever, you will see an allen head bolt. Take a 4mm, long tee handled allen wrench and tighten or loosen that bolt to the desired pressure.)
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19 hours ago, Constabulary said:post a link to that video if you don´t mind
I will have to see if I can find it on YouTube.
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Weaver has a good You Tube video on Adler's. It is an easy fix if you watch their video.
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That bag does look ready nice. Unfortunately, I cannot offer any advice on marketing. I would recommend, if you do not already subscribe, signing up for the magazine "illume". It used to be called ShopTalk. There is always an article in there that introduces new artisans and businesses. Maybe it would give you some ideas. I hear you though, making belts does not cover the costs.
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Thanks Tom. I'll have to check out the link.
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Looks very good Tom. Is the reins strap part of the nose band, or did you sew them together? And, you may have told me, but I forgot if you did; do you use a filler in the rounded jaw strap? I had a new halter come into the shop last week, and the jaw strap was kinked. I tried to round it out, but it seemed like the filler inside the leather was possibly a piece of wire and did not smooth out like I wanted.
Thanks, Ron
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I've used sink cutout granite pieces, scrap granite, and a 1.5" marble. They all worked for a while. The granite finally split in two. I skive on my stones, and the marble is too soft to skive on. The best find was at a monument company. My wife and I were purchasing a headstone for a relative. I asked one of the guys about scrap 3" stones. I got one for free. This company also had smaller stones (still 3 inches thick) for departed pets (about 12"x 18"). Yes, my stone is heavy, and I do not move it. I set it into my bench, and that is where it stays. I will say, I was not successful on my first attempt to find a discarded headstone, but I finally got lucky.
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I use to have a formula for a simple cleaner using: water, ammonia, and a few drops of Ivory dish soap. It was suggested in a restoration article I read many years ago. I do not remember the person who suggested it, but I have used it on real greasy leather and it worked well.
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As Tom said, adjust your top tension, and check your threading of the machine. Practice first on scrap until you are satisfied. What I will do on a practice piece is to cut carefully with my round knife along the seam to check where the treads are knotted within the leather. This helps to determine your top thread tension.
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Thanks Tom, that's helpful information.
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Tom,
How long did this operation take, and what did you charge? There are few, if any, English repair people in my area. I have requests for repairs, but I really do not know what I am doing, and it takes time to figure out how to take the different saddles apart. So, I seldom say yes to requests.
What I hear you saying is that instead of the stitching in front along the swell it is along the rear? Is there any alternative, other than purchasing a stapler, to reinstall the pieces of the saddle that have to be removed?
Thanks Ron
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A really good power splitter. Left over leather could be split down to use in many projects. It has to be 14 to 18 inches wide. My 6" Landis is fine for small pieces. But like Tim the Toolman said: "...more power, uhg, uhg."
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Dwight,
The kind of saddle bags that you mentioned are usually nylon bags. I'd have to measure my old US cavalry bags, but 12"x12" x 5"deep are about as large as you would want for leather saddle bags. I have made bags out of chap leather to cut down on weight, that would be an alternative to nylon.
Also, thank you for the kind words.
Ron
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I would be pleased to send you a pattern. Here are a few that I have built. Let me know which one you would want a pattern for. As you said, the part that goes behind the cantle is the foundation for constructing the bags.
Ron
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I'd need a roadmap to put that on a horse. It took me several minutes to figure out the cavason attachment. Good job Tom, as always, I am envious of your work.
Ron
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Tom,
That is a mighty fine piece of art that you created. When you say weighted lead, did you add something more than extra leather?
Keep up the good work.
Ron
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What a show off Tom. That's another great looking work of art. I like you flowering trees also.
Ron
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I made a beveler like the one that you showed with the vise. I held the blade in with a woodscrew and small washer. Then, I had a second piece of wood to form a channel the width of the string. To hold the string in place while beveling, I used a piece of plexy glass on top with a pivot screw and a locking screw. It looked cool, but sucked at the task of beveling. It didn't cost me any money, just time and frustration. Let us know what you come up with.
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Danny,
This is how I see the tool: the center block has a slot in it that holes the blade. (I think a craft blade would work.) The rods or bolts go through all three pieces of wood to hold the blade in position and the left hand block is the piece that the string rides along the top and is beveled by the blade. The top piece of metal is a hold-down piece that keeps the string is position to bevel. As TomE mentioned, it may be just as easy to buy a tool. I have tried to make my own, and I have never been satisfied with the results for the amount of time I spent making the tool.
Ron
Tree Suggestions
in Saddle Construction
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Hi Randy,
Did you ever post a photo of this saddle for you daughter? I am working on a design for a new saddle, but I have yet to decide on type of tree and rigging. Sue mentioned Arizona Roper in her long past post, and I am leaning in that direction, maybe a tree from Double L (Quality Manufacturing).
Thanks, Ron