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Moderator - please feel free to change, move or modify as you see fit. Hi again. Still downsizing. Here is a used Heritage skiver. Weaver SKU # 65-6110 With spare blade SKU # 65-6111 Both go for 300 USD + shipping. First “I will take it” …..300 USD including + 23.00 Shipping via USPS Flat Rate Priority Mail box. I had both blades sharpened by someone in Montana? Years ago. I read some article about him and the quality of his work. In any case, I didn’t trust myself in doing so I paid to have it done. If you want it please post your reply with the “I will take it” so others will now you are interested and if for any reason, you cant/wont/don’t pay, I will contact the 2nd “I will take it” and so forth. Payment by USPS Money order if you want it shipped ASAP. If you want to pay by personal check, then I will need to make sure it clears before I ship, unless I did business with you previously. Sorry, no PayPal, credit cards, first born, appendages, or bit coin. I have it priced as it is in the hopes that someone will actually use it and not flip it. Note, that I also have Heritage Snap setter for sale. See other add. I made a wood storage/carry case to store/carry BOTH units. If you want to buy both tools and want the storage/carry case, let me know and I can ship BOTH units in the storage/case but I will pad the outside with some cardboard. If so, the shipping will be via ground for everything. If you want sticker shock, look at shipping ~ 44 lbs and a box 24.5x8x15.5 inches. Shipping via USPS ground isn’t cheap, but looking at Priority Mail is about 20 bucks more and less time in transit. The way I see it, the longer you spend in transit the more chances of something going wrong. If you want you can do your own research on shipping and see if you can find cheaper. The price different wont be alot in the end for the whole case and tools. By the way, I use some Baltic birch plywood for the case. Ever since reading about it and how much nicer it was to work with, I finally had the chance to buy and use. So the case is made with that and its has a coating of Polyurethane. Thanks for looking.

Moderator - feel free to move, edit or change if needed. Hi again. More downsizing… Here is a lightly used Heritage table top snap setter. Here is an Heritage mfg snap setter, Weaver SKU 65-6150 Included is 1 set for #20 Dot snaps. Im not sure what the other set if for, but chances are, its the next smaller size. First “I will take it” …..100 USD including + 77.00 Shipping via USPS Priority Mail. If you need to ask a question, sorry, but chances are someone wont need to ask a question and will want it before I can reply. But go for it. If you can post your reply with the “I will take it” so others will now you are interested and if for any reason, you cant/wont/don’t pay, I will contact the 2nd “I will take it” and so forth. Payment by USPS Money order if you want it shipped ASAP. If you want to pay by personal check, then I will need to make sure it clears before I ship, unless I did business with you previously. Sorry, no PayPal, credit cards, first born, appendages, or bit coin. I have it priced as it is in the hopes that someone will actually use it and not flip it. Note, that I also have Heritage Skiver for sale. See other add. I made a wood storage/carry case to store/carry BOTH units. If you want to buy both tools and want the storage/carry case, let me know and I can ship BOTH units in the storage/case but I will pad the outside with some cardboard. If so, the shipping will be via ground for everything. If you want sticker shock, look at shipping ~ 44 lbs and a box 24.5x8x15.5 inches. Shipping via USPS ground isn’t cheap, but looking at Priority Mail is about 20 bucks more and less time in transit. The way I see it, the longer you spend in transit the more chances of something going wrong. If you want you can do your own research on shipping and see if you can find cheaper. The price different wont be alot in the end for the whole case and tools. By the way, I use some Baltic birch plywood for the case. Ever since reading about it and how much nicer it was to work with, I finally had the chance to buy and use. So the case is made with that and its has a coating of Polyurethane. Thanks for looking.

Sold to JHLeatherwood good luck and thank you !

James, happy new year. IM on the way. thanks

Moderator....if this post needs to be in a different category, please feel free to move at your discretion. Hi again and happy new year.... Im still slowly downsizing my life and hobbies…. Here is a lightly used Rein Rounder I have for sale. Its an Heritage #15240 Rein Rounder First “I will take it” …..100 USD including + 23.00 Shipping via USPS Priority Mail. If you need to ask a question, sorry , but chances are someone wont need to ask a question and will want it before I can reply. For those of you that want it, you can post your reply with the “I will take it” so others will know you are seriously interested and if for any reason, you cant/wont/don’t pay, I will contact the 2nd “I will take it” and so forth. For those in Canada. Sorry, but I think with the shipping difference and the difference in the value of CAD vs USD it may not be “worth it” to do so. I looked at the shipping to CAD and the spread was 45 ~ 59 for 2 lbs and that was just for shipping. Payment by USPS Money order if you want it shipped ASAP. If you want to pay by personal check, then I will need to make sure it clears before I ship, unless I did business with you previously. Sorry, no PayPal, credit cards, first born, appendages, or bit coin. I have it priced as it is in the hopes that someone will actually use it and not flip it. Thanks for looking.

Welcome not sure abotu what gun models you need to make. But have you considered just buying what you can? There are people selling them New or used? we use both types of printers (plastic) at work, and i can tell you, none of them will hold up to use as a "stamp". there are metal type printers now. We dont have one, yet and i havent seen one. But if you are really serious, dont ask on here. Go out and see what you can find locally. use your google fu and start looking for places that have them in use. you may find some place that offeres to "rent/buy" time on them and go from there. Heck, they may have a metal type too. while they are getting cheaper year after year, imo, i woudnt buy one now unless you really really NEED one. Chances are the technology will only improve--- if you are old enough, think back to the cell phones. If you remember how the 1st ones were literally bricks. and if you really really need one, i would just find a place to rent/buy time and use them to LEARN how they work. The printer is the endpoint. what will you use for the modeling? that way if you screw up buying one, you wont regret it. then make some of the stuff you want. see if the part ends up working as you envision it. And at one time there were places you could buy time on their machines. IIRC, there was a place on the east coast that had a whole bunch of equipment you could do prototyping. good luck

Some relative words being thrown out here. like many other boards i frequent. we got 1 of each type at work and have been using them for prototyping and making parts for various projects. as of this moment i dont have access to the Spool type, but have been using the resin. Ive only made some small parts with it and am still learning the details. Since it prints upside-down there are some adjustments. The spool type is for the "engineering" and they recently made some vacuum manifolds to use on our CNC machine. They also made the same on our (maintenance) resin machine. In any case, they did some testing of both and using the same files but made of different materials, they found that the spool material was stiffer than the resin. Noting that there are different spool and resin materials too.

i have not seen anything like that. but it appears they just applied the snap to the glide. Why dont you just buy 1/2 glides and add the snap yourself?

@shell, sorry, i just sent them off to a local saddler. If you want, i cant pass on their info and you can ask them if they are willing to part with what you may need or want.

Hey all…happy new year. Im still downsizing and here is the rest of my leatherworking hardware. I have counted most of the items along with added part numbers for those of you wanting to know what left. Many of the hardware is from Weaver, some from Mast and some from my local supplier. I separated most of the hardware into labeled baggies and some of the hardware have been just tossed into the same baggy. Most of the hardware is English bridle hardware and/or halter hardware since it what is repaired or made the most of. But I think you will find a mix of other hardware too. Browse the list and see if the 2 boxes are of any interest to you or worth it to you. Note, the parts are in 2 Large USPS Priority Mail – FLAT RATE – boxes. So the total shipping for both will be $46.00 Im putting a price of 30 USD for all of the hardware + the 46 for shipping so a TOTAL of 76.00 USD. I would prefer a USPS Money Order, but will consider other forms of payment. Only serious inquiries, please and im not interesting in busting up the bunch for someone wanting onesies and twosies…sorry. i have attached some photos of the hardware too. The photos are not of everything but most of whats in the 2 boxes. I have also attached a excel listing too. Thanks for looking… FIRST - I WILL TAKE IT, GETS IT. PLEASE REPLY TO POST AND STATE SO. THAT WAY OTHERS WILL KNOW ITS TAKEN. ALSO, IF PAYMENT DOESNT SHOW, THEN IT WILL GO TO THE NEXT PERSON. ALSO, this is only for USA, Alaska and Hawaii. Sorry for anyone outside... Also, keep looking...i will be selling off my tools and equipment soon... if any of you are thinking im scamming anyone, if Shadybrook is still around ask him. He got everything but what i have here for free. But he had to pay the shipping & customs from the USA. LEATHER STUFF FEB2023 PDF.pdf

look at the fs board....im selling off the rest of my hardware.... its all or nothing...

welcome yes and no. Depending on the PO model. the POs are based off the 1911 design, but some of the POs and other brands are "wide bodies" where the grip is larger/wider due to the increase in magazine capacity. Or if you are familiar with gun magazines, some of them are staggered (double stack) mags instead of a straight stack.

welcome, sometimes you need to work at it to get what you want. heres where i will shop locally.... i will let you take it from there... note im downsizing and have not been there for any supplies other than glue. https://oregonleatherco.com/ i also get some stuff from here too. Note, if you are not sure about some fabrics/zippers, i was able to get a "sample" swatch of various colors/sizes...ect. They are not free, but at least you can do the touchy/feely and get an idea on size/shape. https://www.seattlefabrics.com/ I also used to buy from weaver. Dont know if you have their catalog or not, but you may want to look them up and see if anything interests you. also, when it comes to things, you may want to BUILD UP your REFERENCE LIBRARY. You may not want "books" but i find them handy.

Sold to YinTx THANK YOU!

i didnt read all of the replies... but imo, what it comes down to will is what you are trying to cut, how thick and what you are using. if you are going to use any of those disposable type blades, then dont be cheap and keep on using 1 for months on end. Replace with new often. how often? well you will figure that out as soon as you replace with a new one. when i started in leatherwork it was in Jr High. My instructor had a really nice and SHARP head knife. NO ONE was allowed to touch it since it was his personal tool. but when it came to cutting the leather, it cut it like butter. It looked effortless and he knew how to use it too. So, if you want to, get one and put a good edge on it and learn how to use it. Also, if you go that far as to buy one, then learn how to put an edge on it anyway since a tool like that works best when its sharp. also, not sure what you are making and how important the cut/line is, but no one really knows you screwed up except yourself. But with your description of your "choppy" it appears you are starting/stopping alot?. again, try using a new blade every so often and go from there. last comments.... > how's the lighting in your work area? If you have harsh direct lighting, you may have shadows to deal with. > cutting surface? depending on what you are cutting on, it may catch your knife point too.

welcome, have you looked at any leathershops in your area? or any upholstery shops? ones that may do leather upholstery? or used Craigslist/ebay. or checked with any leathercrafters in your areas? you may find someone local so you dont need to pay for shipping. good luck

something else.... > sometimes you are your own worse critic too. Do you have any Saturday Markets, flea markets, gun shops/shows, anyplace you may see the type of work you want to do? Look at what others are doing/making and see if yours is up to snuff or if you put yours side-by-side, would you pick one over the other? could you see any difference? I did ALOT of bridle repair/mods. So what it came down to was swapping brass for stainless or the other way around. Or shortening/remaking something or a fix. But for the most part, the customer knew what they wanted so all i needed to do was to make it happen. No one i know of ever complained. also, you are sort of vague in what you are doing/want. Maybe thats on purpose or its how you think? Maybe you dont have a clear vision in what you want to do, so it comes out in your hands/projects? good luck

Free to a good home.... You pay shipping via USPS Priority Mail medium box .....$16.00 im downsizing my life and hobbies. Here are my last subs to LC&SJ. V 27, No. 3~6 V 28, No. 1~6 No. 1 has some spine/top damage. Text is readable. V 29, No. 1 ~6 V 30, No. 1~6 V 31, No. 1 If you want these, please reply stating you will take so others will know they missed out. And then PM me with your address so i can get them out. thanks for looking.

if you have AADD, Adult - Attention Deficit Disorder , not much you can do. No one comes out of the womb knowing how to do everything. Everyone starts at 0. you need to figure out what motivate/works for you. I found out that im not perfect and dont pick things up on the 1st try. So what i have learned about myself is that it takes repetition and doing again and again and again. How long you ask? Until. "Until" is up to you or someone judging your work. But it was just me and my standards. I had books to use and look at the pictures to judge/compare my work against such as the saddle stitching. Easy peasy. And with other things i have done in the past, over time and repetition, i have found i became better at what i was doing. Sometimes you have an ah-ha moment or something just clicks to where you know youve done it right. I tried the leather carving too. My leahtercarving sucks. I tried it several times but im not willing to take more time so i dont. ALso just an fyi, i was an architecture student and my sketches of people looked the same as my leather carving - sucks. Stick figure ish. Buildings and objects were great, but something wrong with my wiring someplace. So all of my leather projects are plain. But the are easier to make. I could do some stamping, but didnt want to get into that either. I still make mistakes and know i will do so till im burried. But its life and i know that. My 1st projects were in jr highschool where i was introduced into leathercraft. If you see any of the old? starter leathercraft kits you will note they had various flat leather shapes to make things. Such as keyfobs. I think there was a hair barrette and some other things... but for the most part were flat. not alot of stitching/sewing. We did make some coin purses and some wallets. All of them were "kits" so all you needed to do was to follow the path. What will happen to you is that if you dont improve your skills now, eventually something or a project will force you to. Ive made a SLR camera case with some heavy leather and using sole leather on the top/bottom. Try stitching sole leather with an awl. I tried, but eventually had to use a dremel and pre-drill the holes. Then on top of that i lined it with some closed cell phone and cordura. I made bags that were a mix of leather and cordura and a bookpack with both too. that pack lasted me through college and then some. just remember, many things are a "do over" so keep that in mind when you do something or a hobby. It may cost you some money and time, but if you are willing to learn/try, then do what you need to do and keep an open mind. If you want and if you have access to some leather shops in your area, look for some large "scrap" leather to buy and practice on. If you can, look for pieces you can use to make "prototpyes" and such. I have used some heavy poster board to make prototpyes and patterns. Again, thinking outside the box to help in your skills. If you screw up, evaluate why. Just dont toss and start over. Maybe even keep that and finish up the project to verify the end product will work as intended. On my 1st holster i made, it was for a friends Browning High power. So i made a pattern, cut the leather and started stitching. I wanted to lace it togeather too instead of saddle stitch and it was a PIA. Ive laced thin leather, but i never laced an edge ~ 1/2 inch wide, so i had to learn on the fly how to to it. I did use some scrap and build up to the thickness needed to practice on too. And to top it off i made it a left handed holster. I forgot to flip the patten over or the leather over. ever since then, when i make a holster, i will forget to flip the pattern and always end up making a left hand holster. but in my friends case, he was left handed and it worked out in the end. imo, i think its more important you keep on doing. How you will learn and improve your skills is up to you and either you will do it when you want or outside forces will make you do it. Again, its your choice.

welcome, you may want to expand your references and get some leather books. If you want to make "cases" there are some books on "cases" if you want and they have info such as nomenclature. have fun.

welcome if you have any book stores where you live, you may want to check there first. even calling/emailing/texting.... its so easy now to check before you go. you know what you want and it makes it that much easier. Also, you dont need to buy alot of books. to me, its not difficult for somethings, but im more mechanical minded and think outside the box. If you think of a bag as a sack or something similar, you maybe able to get idea of how it could be built/assembled. you dont say what type of bags you want to make, but to me its sort of moot. Once you get 1 or 2 reference material, then review them and see how its done. Again, to me extrapolating what is shown and then applying to what i want is the next step. Sort of OT. > my bucket seats upholstery on an earlier car was worn so i wanted to play and remake the seat upholstery. I wanted to use something cool like Pendleton Wool and found a local outlet store. But what did i use for a pattern? i used the passenger seat! And just flipped the pattern over for any seat adjustment controls. easy-peasy. I made all of my oops on the passenger seat and so the drivers seat was better made/assembled. > when i was sailing, i had alot of gear to move from car to boat. Got tired of making alot of trips, so i made a duffel using some cordura i had alot of. I just made a "box" type duffle. Round ends could have been done, but i decided on a big rectangular box (bag). Zippers were a horse of a different color, but i had to do some thinking/drawing/sketching of how much material to overlap on top or not between the zipper side. i didnt want exposed zippers but some covering over them when it rained. Also, what it came down to is assembling the duffle inside-out. > depending on what you want to make, if you can get your hands on one, turn it inside-out and see how its made. again, easy peasy. > a friend wanted a book backpack made after seeing my bookpack. But he wanted some nicer things like padded straps and more pockets. I had several used/broke/worn out book packs to use as "reverse engineering samples" and thats how i made my pack and my fiends. > if you can get any cheap material to use as "prototype" consider doing so. > if you can draw, try drawing out your ideas. You dont have to be 10000% details on the 1st go around, but doodle details, such as how you will do the zipper or corners. Or how you will do the sides/bottoms. > as a matter of design and thinking outside the box, i try to MINIMIZE seams. Why? because its a wear/weak point. stitching can wear and loosen overtime. you do need seams, but i try to minimize it. > for the most part, if you want to attach things like pockets, you can add the before you assemble the whole project, but that will depend on the type of "bag" you want to make. > i know this is a leather board and chances are you want to use leather. I get that. but remember leather requires CARE. so whatever you decide to make, i would consider CARE. If you dont want to maintain that leather, then i would consider some other material. I mentioned CORDURA and i like using it since its nylon. And it requires minimial/0 care. have fun

welcome, some hints.... i would look for any industrial sewing machine sellers or used machine sellers in your area. Or if you want, nearby countries. You sort of live surrounded by other places that may have what you seek too. but take a sample of the material you want to sew and if its 2 or 3 layers, bring some sample of material so you can test sew on the material you want to sew. If you have a specific thread size, you can bring some of that thread and they will have to put some on a bobbin to test. But you will be able to test using material and thread. whatever features on the machine you want, make sure you make note or however you want to remember. for what its worth, i bought several used machines over years only to find they were did not work as i wanted. I spent alot of money on them and on the total. in the end, buy what you can afford and what you think you will use now and maybe in the future. Last comment. what i noticed is that the limiting factor on a machine was....thread size, pressor foot height, and most was forward/reverse. Since you live in the EU, im not sure what is available there vs the USA. I or we could recommend a model, but if you cant get it there, its moot. As mentioned some machines are clones of other brands too. good luck

regarding conveyor belt... you may want to be careful on whats IN the belt. Some may have some steel webbing inside.

welcome, i get it that it would be cool if you could get the easy answer for things. But this will be something you need to ask the customer and some of its by experience too. consider.... > will the holster be lined? If so, what with? > some people are making dual material holsters now such as Cordura/Leather, like those Cordura/leather saddles. Im surprised it took this long. > some people WANT a holster with no body too! > i made some knife sheaths where they were more or less just suede. No body and no support. Just for show i guess. Chances are you will be making some "oops" holsters where you will screw it up and have to start over. Every time i make a new holster and pattern, i forget to mark what side up for right and left and then what side up flesh/hair side to make a right or left hand holster. Its a (re) learning experience for me. you dont have a location in your profile so i will assume you are in the USA and have some leather shops nearby. But i would go to any leather shops in your area and buy some leather of different thicknesses and do some testing. At my local shop they have barrels full of scraps of various size, shape and leather types inducing furs too. So if im willing, i can rummage through them to find various weights if i want. They also have some "bellies" that have SOME good material left on them to use. I will sometimes get them to make some prototypes/pattens or test various things. If you are going to get into this hobby then you may as well get used to having some leather of various weights on hand. Either for you or for a customer. fwiw, i have from i think 5 oz to 11 oz for various projects i have had over my time doing leather work. Iirc i have used 5 to 8/9oz for my holsters and again, it would depend on what i was making and for whom and if it was lined or not. im sure others will chime in with an answer for you, but i think in the end you will find out the hard way, you will need some various weights.

have you tried to make any X or Y changes in your page setup or scaling?