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Posts posted by Greenwood

  1. Hey Catskin haven't heard from you in a long time.  Leo here from Regina.  

    I bought screws from A Martin and like you said they work well with the foot I got at the same time.  I later determined that the screws provided are 12-24 x 3/4 machine screws. I found some at Bolt Supply in Regina and  used 2 to hold the homemade edge guide in the existing holes on the front block where the wax box attached.  They are not the perfect thread but a drop of blue thread lock did the trick.  The screws hold firm and are not seized in place as you might expect. They come 100 per box so I have lots on hand to spare.  The next time you're in Regina call me and I'll let you have some.

    P.S. There was a minimum purchase price so cheaper to buy 100. 

    Call me fivefourfivefortyonethirtynine or fivethreesixeightzerotwofive.

    Hope to hear from you Leo

  2. Hi Dave

    I have a Singer 132K6 that I use for horse blankets and have done so for years.  It is a heavy duty machine with ample room to the right of the needle to pass the heavy blanket material.  I use 92 thread to sew the patches and leg straps.  Unlike my Juki LU563 the Singer has plenty of tolerances in the sewing mechanism to sew blankets.  Even when washed which I insist on, there is always fine sand particles left behind that can play havoc with newer machines.  I clean out the race and shuttle regularly and add fresh oil at the same time. Some might say that the 132 is overkill for horse blankets which it is but having a jump foot and ample room to handle bulky material, I would certainly recommend same or equivalent machine for horse blanket repair.    

    Good Luck. Layo

  3. Quote

    Its a wonderful machine.  You got it for a decent price considering I've seen some ask double the price you paid.  I've had mine for 45 years and although I have not used it on a daily basis it has always laid as nice a stitch as any machine other than a hook and awl stitcher.  Good luck with your find.



  4. You said in an earlier post the  knob spins and no change to stitch length.  Could it be that the bolt in the dial wheel has broken loose over the years and needs to be brazed.  It could also be a weak stitch lever spring.  Ensure that the movement of the stitch lever is smooth with no hang-ups.  Adjusting should be easy on scrap leather disregard the stitch dial and sew 6spm when satisfied turn the dial to 6 then adjust the back bolt stop to meet the dial bolt and you got her done.  My 6 like Leathersmyths sews at the dial setting.   Beautiful Ole Machine

    Good luck  Leo 

  5. Hi Angus:

    My previous life was in the Royal Canadian Mounted Police where we were issued high brown pebbled riding boots.  We were taught to apply several heavy coats of shoe polish then iron the boot with a hot regular electric iron.  The heat flattens the pebbles but can also burn the leather if not careful.  Do not intend to use it to  iron your white shirt for Sunday Church Service.  Get a used iron at a Garage Sale or Flee Market.  Use the point and move in a circular motion approx. 2" in dia. Wipe excess polish while still hot as you go. Using a towel you can support the area of the hose being ironed while shielding your hand.   Use regular paste floor wax to clean boot.  Apply light coats of polish as you would on new shoes.  I kept my boots as a keepsake.  I got them in 1967 for Canada's Centennial and although they have not been overly worn I can bring them up to mirror like finish in no time. I'm sure members of the US military on this site have their own or similar recipes.  Good luck and let us know of the progress.

    From the Great White North!!! 


  6. WOW​, Cst.

    The Pearson 6 I've owned since 1974 still looks like your first pics, shame on me!!! But by golly, whenever I need to sew a tight stitch on thick leather, the ole girl always pulls through. ​You've done a wonderful job, the best is still to come when you get it going "chicum chicum, beautiful sound. Over the years I've made a few upgrades: needle guide, snap in table and sewing guide. It came with the highly sought after bobbin winder. Don't how to attach pics sorry!!


  7. HI

    I have the same machine, here are a few hints: ensure the machine and bobbin are properly threaded, and the bobbin should turn counter clockwise as you sew. Increase the bobbin tension, in small increments. Check the timing, hook to needle scharf. Use of the correct needle is critical (328 needles various sizes) fully insert the needle in the needle bar and check that no broken needle shaft is in the needle bar, this will alter the timing. There are threads on this site that can help with the setup, The Singer manual will also be of assistance.

    The 132K6 is a beast and will sew almost anything that fits under the foot.

    I like my machine, I only wish I had more work for it.

    Good Luck, Layo

  8. Hi steadybrook

    I am technically challenged but will try, please be patient. It's painted John Deere green and very clean. Thanks for your interest.

    I'm located in Regina, SK if that means anything for shipping charges.

    three-0 six five.4 five-four-one three -nine


  9. Hi Chris

    I had the same problem, used a puller to get crank off. then filed shaft nice and smooth. Solution: made a flat spot on shaft and drilled a dimple on flat spot, so set screw will sit. Tightened to prevent crank from turning. Problem solved.. You are working with cast.....easy on the hammer.

    Good Luck Leo.

  10. Steadybrook:

    Are you still looking for a 5in1? I have one that I'd be willing to sell, trade or whatever. am asking $600 plus shipping, OBO. I don't where you are in Canada, I am in Regina, SK. If interested let me know.