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bullrope braider

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About bullrope braider

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  • Location
    Silver city, NM
  • Interests
    making quality bull ropes for the professional bull rider

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    fabricating accessories for the sport of bull riding
  • Interested in learning about
    chap making, love my Cobra Class 4 with EPS.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    google search

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  1. thank you, I printed this out and will give it a shot here shortly on edit: didnt take but a couple minutes to fix the needle position. thank you for your help. also the speed is re set now so it's not haulin it when I step on the pedal. thanks again
  2. interesting post, like some others here I thought it was normal for my Cobra to just take off right away even though I was easing into the pedal. looks like I'll contact Tom about my EPS motor about this mod, It'll sew slow but I cant get the slow crawl I need going around corners or turns and is making me miss my stitching lines. also with this EPS needle positioning system to get it to stop needle down takes a heel tap on the pedal, if I just take my foot off the pedal it'll stop needle up. is that right?
  3. not so much the angle but it's a little convex according to Luke. I couldn't get it as I was using a scissor grinder which makes it concave, I'm using a belt driven sharpner with a 220 grit belt to develop the shape and finished with a 600 grit till I get the burr on the bottom side. I hit it with a flat scissor hone enough to remove the burr keeping the stone completely flat. you could do the same with a good strop. Since Luke explained this method to me my tandy splitter works much better, with my spare splitter blade I stropped it both flat then the top side staying with the shape as I pulled it across the leather strop. now that i have both blades like this it only takes a little work on the strop occasionally to keep the edge sharp. it's still a Tandy splitter and will never be perfect. I've bought one of Steve's new Leather splitter and cant wait for it to ship
  4. Hey Steve, are you getting close to shipping time yet? have you got any pic's of our new splitter yet you could share? thanks bud, John
  5. it would help also if Tandy used good hard steel for their splitter blades, when I run mine on the scissor grinder it acts like it's no harder than a lawn mower blade. too soft to be a splitter blade. I can get it sharp and honed with a slight burr on the back side then run it on the strop but it stays good for only a few sessions then need to re hone again. aggravating doesnt explain it I keep a pan with cold water close and never let the blade get hot, warm to the touch only
  6. thanks for posting his contact info, I've tried different bevels with my splitter blades using my scissor sharpner grinder but would like to know what blade angle he prefers
  7. thanks Steve, I've been watching for the updates. I looked on your website but didnt see anything on the splitter there. I'm real anxious to get my splitter and put it to work. thanks again my friend, John
  8. it came palletized shrink wrapped, the head is in a cardboard box incased in a styrofoam shell. the stand is put together and bolted down to the pallet, you'll need to install the rollers first then you can move the stand around easily. when you un pack the head don't tear up the box, you'll need in for return shipping of the head if you ever have to return it for warranty work (probably will never need to but save the head packaging anyway) open the top, invert the box and slide it off the styrofoam casing. save that stuff too. it wasn't hard to get inside but you'll need someone to help you lift the head up onto the stand. the head weights right around 175 lbs if not more so be careful setting it up. I believe shipping weight on the pallet is right at 320 lbs if I remember right but if you can get it close to the door it'll be easy to get inside. the truck that delivered mind had a tailgate lift and just backed right in close to the door and I did the rest myself, my step daughter came over and helped me lift the head onto the stand and held it till I got a couple bolts in. take some time and watch steve's DVD first and keep it handy, I knocked the timing off a bit and the DVD walks you through re setting the timing. the cheap screw drivers and allen wrenches twisting and rounded off so get you some quality screw drivers and a good quality set of metric allen wrenches, my allen wrenches are falcon tools with the ball end one the long end and work well. the screws and bolts you'll have to loosen for re setting the timing and even changing out parts to sew leather or thick webbing are really tight so be careful making adjustments. oil everything before first use and as steve's recommendation in the video. I think I spent a couple hours putting it together and started playing with it, the only problems I've had were my own fault and Steve covers it well in the DVD and he's always just a phone call away if you need anything. I bought my Cobra from recommendations from my sister's boyfriend, he's been using one in his saddle shop for a while now and loves his machine too. it's a great machine hope your Cobra arrives soon, John
  9. it will be worth your wait, I got my class 4 before the problems in Japan, back then I didn't have to wait very long when I ordered mine. your going to love your machine
  10. this is the place I buy from, if you don't need the core for braiding it's easy to pull the cords out with needle nose pliers. http://parachute-cord.com/
  11. Awesome, cant let the wife know it's not work. I enjoyed your post, thanks for the chuckle John
  12. maybe it is just me but I had a tuff time finding this info, I know Steve's a really busy guy so just hated to call someone for something I should be able to find on my own. just the way I am I suppose, anyway sticking this up again may help someone else speed up their search a bit. entering this info into the search bar within this forum without knowing the right names of things on here didnt help me much. I ended up just doing a google search and actually found links right back here for what I needed, who'd thunk that one? Lol and need to give Art some credit too, it was some of his postings that led me to the thread exchange links. Thanks Art John
  13. I've been picking through this forum and other leather forums forever looking for the proper thread and needles for my Cobra. I've found bit's N pieces of past threads that other members posted information. I've got a wide range of materials I'm sewing so I needed to find needles and thread for thin to really thick projects. I've just ordered an assortment of needles from Campbell Bosworth Machinery so I'll post the link to their needle page. some of this info was from Cobra Steve posting's I found so I'm thankful again for your help Steve. the thread link is to the thread exchange, I found a good assortment of thread to cover my projects there. I'll post back here latter on how well these products worked for me. 794 or 7x4/7x3 needle system for the cobra class 3or 4 I believe the same needles work in the Toro 3 & 4000 models. http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/3_125_235 http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TTE&Category_Code=nylon-thread-138 I hope those links work, and I hope this information is helpful thanks, John
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