Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About hobageeba

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi guys, I'm trying to get a grasp on the different flesh side finishes there are but unfortunately, Wicket & Craig doesn't supply flesh-side finish samples (Hermann Oak doesn't seem to have any info). I've done some google searching and can't seem to come up with any good pictures of the different finishes out there so I'm wondering if any of you have pictures and/or experiences you could share. W&C offers stirrup, pasted, and buffed flesh. From what I've gathered, buffed flesh is good if you want a slightly softer, fuzzier finish than the normal post-split flesh-side, stirrup flesh is lacquered (really curious to know what this is like) and pasted flesh is sort of similar to if you were to apply gum trag and rub it in to the flesh-side.... Let me know your thoughts or even better lets see some pics!
  2. Thanks for the suggestions guys! I've put emails in with them all. Also, just FYI, a friend pointed me to this guy operating out of Hong Kong and charging around $32+$5 shipping for a brass stamp up to 10 square cm of area. Pretty insane deal. http://www.etsy.com/listing/81882106/custom-leather-stamp-for-stamping Also excited that Black River Laser has custom template cutting services! I've been looking for something like that. Thanks!
  3. Hey guys, I need a source for getting stamps made for small run projects and whatnot. I've used infinity stamps before and they make a quality product, but they're really pricey. I've seen pictures of what looks like a metal plate glued to wood blocks for stamps (picture attached). I'm assuming this would be a lot cheaper than infinity's solid metal blocks. Let me know if anyone has a source! Thanks a lot.
  4. hobageeba

    New Cobra Class 4

    PM sent. Please get back to me ASAP! Thanks!
  5. Oh right, sorry. I'm talking about the Texas Custom Dies clicker. There's literally no pictures on the site, except for one that comes up on the slideshow on the homepage: http://www.texascustomdies.com/
  6. Hi all, I'm wondering if anyone out there actually owns or has used one of these clicker presses. There's basically no info or pictures on their site. I know you can do the conversion yourself, but at $450, it might be worth not having to sort it all out. Just wanna hear if anyone has any experience or info on these. Thanks!
  7. hobageeba

    Cobra Class 4

    Was this the standard or premium package? Does the sale include any of the accessories? Would you ship?
  8. Hi there, Is this a walking foot machine? Do you know up to what thread size it will take? Would you ship?
  9. Holy smokes, that's a whole lot more than just the red spots!! I guess hitting all these spots becomes second nature after you've done it for a while. Thanks for addressing the bobbin issue...I definitely had it going the wrong way!
  10. Thank you so much! I'll definitely try that. I seriously appreciate your guys' time and help. So moving on with some more complete newbie questions: • Still not sure which is the correct way for the bobbin to go in - Should it spin clockwise or counter-clockwise? • When I oil, do I just give a few drops each time? Should I be hitting any other spots other than the spots market with red and the felt pad? • On the topic of oiling - there's a big hole on the right side of the machine (the only hole marked with red on the right side) that's sort of a chasm into the machine...not sure what I'm supposed to be hitting with oil there. Thanks!
  11. Thanks Bob, PM sent. Can anyone tell me which way the bobbin's supposed to go in?
  12. Thanks a ton guys! Gonna go through this one by one... Just tried that and it seems better. Still pretty hard to pull though...is that just the nature of the thicker thread? The cup stands seemed wrong to me...ha. Will definitely fix it. I've seen pics of it both ways. The manual reads "Pass thread in weaving fashion through the three holes in guide.." I took that to mean up and down. Am currently trying it your way. Upon further inspection, it was moving it. Just a small amount so I didn't notice before. It could probably push it out a little further. I think I may need to do a little of both of this as it is pushing, but not enough. As for loosening the bobbin tension...I can't figure out for the life of me how to do this from what the manual describes. Is one of these the screw/s you're supposed to adjust? If so, mine are near impossible to get to and adjust. Does it matter which one? Is this what you refer to as the bobbing spring? And while we're at it, do you seat the bobbin so it spins counterclockwise like this: or clockwise like this: Is this the set screw you're referring to? Thanks so much! Thanks for the reply Bob. The picture didn't make it on your post?....
  13. Hey Guys, I'm a new owner of a Consew 226R-1 and I need some help getting it all setup and sussing some problems out. I'm completely new to sewing machines (well, except for really cheap home machines) and am not the most mechanically inclined so please be patient with me. I spoke on the phone with Bob from Toledo Sewing Machines a bit today, who I bought a servo motor off, but I didn't want to bug him too much so I'm hoping some of you out there could give me a hand. Any help or suggestions whatsoever would be hugely appreciated. Thanks! I have a million and one questions but I'm going to try and keep this concise and post a couple questions/problems at a time. • One of the most noticeable problems I'm having is that after switching to 138 thread, the top thread won't manually feed when I try to pull on the thread without me giving it some slack by hand first. By that, I mean, I have to tug on the thread right after the first post it threads through to give it slack, then pull from where it exits the needle. There doesn't seem to be any excessive tension anywhere, it just seems to be a cumulative effect. This leads me to wonder if I'm threading it wrong, which by reading the manual and looking at all the comparative pictures and youtube videos I can find, it seems I'm doing it right. • One thing Bob mentioned is that the tension discs may not be disengaging, which is actually true, but even with the tension discs screwed all the way loose so there's no tension on the thread, I still can't pull the thread from the needle. • Obviously, another concern is fixing the tension discs. I do see that there's a metal plate on the back that pushes against a spring to disengage the threads, but I don't see any mechanism that would push the plate to disengage. Hmmm... I'll attach some pictures of the whole setup as well as details of how I'm threading it. I am very likely screwing something up somewhere so let me know if you see something fishy. Thank you! The whole setup: Threading detail:
  • Create New...