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About spurdude101

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    gunleather, saddles, light projects
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    new ideas
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  1. I have been scouring the net for a dummy of a Colt police positive formerly known as Colt New Army Special. You know the revolver all the cops carried in the movies from the 20's thru the 40's. can't find one. even a 1 to 1 toy gun. any help?
  2. Thanks Wiz, I haven't seen the leather rise up. Seems to have good pressure. I'm using 277 thread with the needle Bob sent for that thread. I use the larger holster plate so as not to have to remove the feed dog. I have tried a new needle. I have switched mid project back to the standard needle plate and pressure foot and continued to sew with no problems. The actual pressure foot has a long slot allowing for a slight adjustment downward. I may try to lower it an 1/8th to see if it helps. Thanks. Al
  3. Bought the inline presser foot for the CB4500. I use it with the raised holster plate so I have good contact. It works very well on leather up to about 12 oz. But on thicker projects it starts to skip stitches every 5 or 6 stitches. Anyone have an idea on why?
  4. I have a guy wants a holster for a Springfield 1911, 5 inch slide. My dummy gun is a Colt 1911, 5inch slide. Anyone know if the Springfield 1911 is markedly different from the Colt dummy gun? Thanks
  5. Looking for a bag punch 1 3/4 x 3/8 inch. Quality
  6. Saw this stuff on Ian Atkinson youtube and thought I would try it. My thoughts are it is a little pricey $12.00 for 120g. Has the consistency of Grand moms face cream. It does put a real nice shine on the edges, and does a great job of slicking down the flesh side, but I find in a few days it makes the edges very dry, same with backs. Maybe I am not using it correctly I don't know. All the print is in Japanese. Anyone else use this stuff?
  7. Thanks everyone. I did do a few searches but frankly either did it wrong or was too frustrating to sift through several hundred post titles looking for the needle in the haystack. In any event I tried Northmount's formula and came up with something like 11/64ths which there again I had to just shake my head and figured roughly 3/8" longer. So like everyone suggested, not that much to worry about unless going really up in thickness. thanks
  8. When lining a belt, how much length do you add? For example, If you take an existing 7 oz. belt measurement fold to favorite hole but are building a 12 oz. belt, how much longer does the hole/belt need to be? is there a formula?
  9. Newton Porter open his first saddle shop in Taylor Texas in1875. in 1881 he moved to Abilene, Tx. for 8 years. Settled in Phoenix, Az. 1895 .There he established the N. Porter saddle and Harness co. He died in 1906. his two sons took over the business and ran it into the 30's or 40's. Swastikas, Navajo indian design, were used until 1933. They also used a steer head logo. If you post a picture of the saddle I might be able to help give the time frame it was made. Saddles are a lot like cars. They had styles. Those styles changed with the times. a slick fork, square shirt 8 string high back would be around the turn of the century to about 1915. That's not to say a saddle like that could not be made at any time. If it has the Swastika on it, it would be very collectable and probably bring a good price at auction. hope this helps with your quest.
  10. How can we compete when you can go on Ebay and buy a Wickett & Craig belt, double stitched, edged. with a buckle, 13 oz. made in America for $39.00? I can't buy the parts for that let alone the labor.
  11. Usually not a fan of Eco Flow, but was replacing a belt I made for guy years ago and I used the Saddle Tan Hi liter. I wanted to match what I made so I broke out the Eco Flow. Just nasty Dirty stuff! If you apply it in circles with a dauber and leave it for just a second it will stain where you let it sit and will not blend in to the next application. Use long streaks and let the dauber run out of fluid and literally fade away. then you can start again and it will blend better. But overall the application has an uneven and dirty look to it. If you damped a sponge or paper towel you can clean it up some, but the areas will lighten in color. the more you try to fix it, the worse it gets. Very hard to work a large piece like a belt. maybe a key fob or something small might be alright.
  12. Ive been reading old threads (pun) on the handmade controversy regarding something hand sewn or machine sewn. Having done both it is my opinion that more skill is involved in machine sewing. I base this on the fact that I never ruined a project hand sewing, but have completely ruined or almost ruined projects on a machine. I have sewn out of stitch grooves, had broken needles, broken thread, run out of bobbin thread, had tensions off, skipped stitches, had big items like belts hang up on stuff and interrupt the feed, presser foot marks, and on and on. What I'm saying is while you are sewing it takes complete and total concentration. Having done or knowing all the above things can go wrong, one must use all the senses possibly even smell to avoid ruining a project. So, if one bases the criteria of being handmade on skill of sewing, I think sewing on a machine should not disqualify if that qualification is based solely on skill level.
  13. thank you, that's how I have done it before but thought there might be a trick to doing it better
  14. On Belts with Basket weave stamp there is usually a Camouflage border. Is it best to stamp the Basket first, Or the Border? How is it best to deal with the overlap?
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