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D.A. Kabatoff

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Everything posted by D.A. Kabatoff

  1. Bruce is correct about it being a push beader. There are two ways to get that line... you can use a "beading blade" on a swivel knife or you can use a push beader. Some people think the push beader is more difficult to use but that is what I use because I can't seem to use the swivel knife with a beader blade very well. If you check out Horseshoe brand tools, they make a push beader. Chuck Smith makes swivel knife beader blades in a couple widths. I prefer a narrow bead as I think it looks more refined. One benefit of the swivel knife beader blade is that you can make tight turns at corners with it while the push beader can't do that.
  2. Brent, I feel your pain! Everytime I look at the scratches on the stirrup leathers I lose my mind! I'd sure like to see these other buckles as well if you don't mind posting a picture. Regards, Darcy
  3. Hi Charlene, I agree with Keith, from your photo it appears the groundseat blends nicely with the fork. If you are going to change anything, i'd rework how you covered the front of the handhole. The splits you made in the covering extend down onto the front edge of the handhole and although a minor thing, you'd be able to see that from the bottom side of the saddle. Darcy
  4. Nice work Steve, I never tire of looking at 3bs! From the looks of your shop, looks like you're keeping busy. regards, Darcy
  5. Jake, Like Bruce described, it's about ergonomics... they might not have used that word back then but they sure had the concept right when building the old stitching horses. It is much more of a natural position then having the jaws upright and squared to you. I find on multiple layers of thick skirting leather that it's easier and less tiring on the wrist and arm pushing an awl at the angle set by the horse than trying to hold your elbow straight out to the side. If you hold your arm up at the two different angles and imagine using an awl, you can actually feel this difference. Darcy
  6. Hi Everyone, I wanted to let you know that the TCAA will be sponsoring a Saddlemaking and Silver Engraving competition that will take place in January of 2013. The competition will take place at the High Noon Auction and Sale in late January. The show is meant to help promote the next generation of gear makers and will be a juried show meaning there will be a formal application in which photos of your work must first be submitted for review and candidates whose work meets the criteria set forth will be contacted to submit their work to the competition. The competition will be judged by two members of the TCAA using a category points system which entrants will be able to see and discuss with the judges after the show... this offers an invaluable opportunity to have your work critqued by the best in the business. There is a prize for first place which I won't comment on other than to say that it is well worth your effort... the show will be formally announced on the TCAA's website towards the end of this month, beginning of next month. For those not familiar with the High Noon Auction, this auction is where the finest, most expensive western art and gear is sold. In a recent auction, Pancho Villa's silver saddle sold for over $600,000.00 This competition is an incredible chance to not only have your worked judged by TCAA members but also to display your skills to art and gear collectors who are looking for the next generation of makers to invest in. Keep an eye out for the official announcement on the TCAA's website: TCAA Website regards, Darcy Kabatoff
  7. Keith, I haven't been on the forum for quite some time but I'm sure glad I took the time tonight! Congratualations on the best of show but more for the personal acheivement... your years of hard work culminated into something truly special that will serve as inspiration to many saddlemakers, craftsmen, and people who just like to see fine work. regards, Darcy
  8. The thread used in the photos was an 8 cord linen that I picked up at a local shoe repair supply house... it's really heavier than necessary and more often than not I use a six cord thread for a more refined look. I usually sew either six or seven stitches per inch and use a Bob Douglas awl. When I got my awls from Bob, he was only making two sizes but since they are handmade they are all a bit different... I asked him to pick out the narrowest ones he had. Darcy
  9. Billie, I think 3b trees are cool looking too, I used to lean towards Wades and Taylor type trees but over time preferred the refined look of the 3b. Aurelie, thanks for the comment, keep up the good work on your own saddle. The first few can be frustrating but stick with it, as you become more familiar with each task that goes into building a saddle the whole process becomes more enjoyable. Mudman, haven't seen you around lately, good to see you are still around! JHayek, thanks for the comment, Although I appreciate fully carved saddles, I'm perhaps more inspired by saddlemakers who can make a saddle attractive based solely on the lines of the saddle and the cleaness of their work. Joanne, Thanks again for the comments and I'm glad it's working the way you want it to. Say hi to Gene for me.
  10. Very nice Steve, looks like a couple people are going to have a great Christmas! Darc
  11. ...Maybe we need to ask Andy how many points I'd lose for entering a used saddle (Andy Knight is this years judge). Andy?
  12. Thanks for the words to everyone. HanginH, I'm not sure what the number size for those bargrounders is. I got them from Ellis Barnes a few years back, they are the shallow type and hopefully you can gauge the size from the photo below. A couple of years ago I got it in my head that I liked the looks of bargrounding all run in the same direction; I wouldn't really recommend it because it takes a ridiculous amount of time compared to fanning a grounder in multiple directions but I can't seem to stop myself from doing it. As for Kamloops, I'd like to take a saddle up this year but I don't have time to make something specifically for the show. If the timing works with a customer's saddle or if I can borrow one from a local customer (hint, hint, Joanne), then I'll be there. Are you going to the show? Joanne, thanks for the photos, the one's I tried taking at the barn with my piece of junk camera didn't turn out at all. Darc
  13. Here's an inskirt 3B saddle I recently finished up for one of our own members, some know her as "Traveller" and some of us know her as Joanne. This inskirt saddle is built on a 3B tree with a laid back 4" cantle and #3 horn. Darc
  14. Not sure how I missed this saddle, but nice work Ryan! Glad to hear you're keeping busy! Merry Christmas to you and your family. Darc
  15. Nice work Steve, from the looks of your shop you are keeping busy! Have a Merry Christmas! Darc
  16. Hey JW, I've haven't had much time to view the forum lately but it's nice to come back and see some good looking saddles. Thanks for posting and have a Merry Christmas. Darcy
  17. Bob, you can go to the website of the National Cowboy Museum and order the catalog directly from the website or you can call the museum store and order it over the phone. Darcy
  18. It's that time of the year again... The link below will take you to the online catalog. My link Darcy
  19. Aurelie, both ways that you have shown are acceptable, quality methods of construction. The second method shown uses less leather so it's a bit lighter, less leather between a riders leg and the horse, and easier to get the pieces from two sides of leather... it is plenty strong as long as the different pieces are cut from the best areas of the hide... I try to get the fenders from high in the hide, near the spine. The first method shown uses more leather, will create slightly more weight, and requires larger pieces from the hide but is most commonly seen on "cowboy saddles" that will see very heavy use and probably very little in the way of care. Nothing wrong with either method as long as they are used for their intended purpose. I wouldn't build a saddle for a hard working cowboy with the second method, and a recreational rider or trainer doesn't need the extra weight and bulk of full stirrup leathers (first method). Darcy
  20. Thanks to everyone for the words... Steve, it's funny, the customer was asking me a few days ago what the tree style is called and I explained that the fork is a bit different than a Selway Packer or a wood post Will James and that I wasn't sure there was an official name for it. A bit later I remembered one of your posts mentioning a similar tree that you started calling a "Swade". I've made a few of them now and the guys riding them say they like the style of fork... Perhaps we need to make the name official or something cause I've been telling each customer they can name the tree after themselves... should make for some good feuding if they ever run into each other! Darcy
  21. Hi Andy, it was one of Jon's rawhided trees...17" seat, 3 3/4" x 12 1/2" cantle, 13" fork, 4" handhole.
  22. thanks for the comments guys. Bob, that keeper isn't part of the ear of the seat, it's actually a seperate piece of leather so it's easy to replace if it ever rips through the slot. I think a guy could probably cut it as part of the ear of the seat and if it tore through, trim it down to a regualar shaped ear and replace it with a simple keeper like the one in the picture... I might just try that sometime. Darcy
  23. thanks guys, Troy, I've never carved a cantle binding before but if I could do one thing different on that saddle, I'd sure try and carve it. Steve, Hope I haven't missed too much, I've been a bit busy lately but things are winding down a bit and I've had some time the last few weeks for reading the forum. Darcy
  24. Prairiegirl, I agree with Andy, I've seen about thirty or so Great West saddles over the years but none in that kind of condition and I wouldn't reline the saddle from a collectors point of view. Even if it did fit modern horses (which I'm sure it wouldn't) it'd be a shame to mark it up. I couldn't speculate on the price. Darcy
  25. Here's a half-breed I just finished up on one of Jon Watsabaugh's fine trees. The fork was kind of a custom job between a Wade and a 13" swell fork. The silver was done by Gary Wiggin's who was recently featured in Western Horseman Magazine... does very nice work. Darcy
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