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About Poboy

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  • Birthday 10/14/1969

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  • Location
    Harrison, OH

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Hand tooled leather for the common man...

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  1. LOL, this is going on a bike I'm building for myself, and the whole project was conceived to look like a vintage, barn built, race bike later converted for street use, using whatever was available, if that makes sense? Not done, but you can check it out here: http://www.thechopperunderground.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=59670
  2. For the bike I'm building currently...
  3. Knocked this out for my son. Terrible lighting makes the natural hide look yellow?
  4. This was my "prototype". Unlined, 6oz bare hide. I will offer them w/ a belt clip and lined w/ felt, or unlined, no clip, like the one seen for pocket carry...
  5. Shipped out to Wiseguy Customs last week...
  6. Here's one I will be lacing up to ship out tomorrow...
  7. Thank you for the kind words. Here is a pic of the seat on the bike.
  8. Just finished this up for Wiseguy Customs, it's going on a build he is doing for one of his customers. His customer requested darkish brown and no tooling. I used Mexican round braid lacing to bring it up in class a bit...
  9. Very nice work. If that's your first seat, I may has well hang up the mallet and tools...
  10. Hey Bro, saw yur post over on TCU and tried to stay back on comments but... Spinner has offered some great advice, now let me offer some first hand help for fixing yur lil' problem. First off, throw away all the Tandy stains, antiqueing, finish, etc. I suppose they might work for wall hangings, etc., but otherwise, they will not allow yur pieces to hold color on any "wear" type item, especially a bike seat. Sorry, had to get in my "anti-Eco Flow" rant. Ok now for your seat, as said above, Fieblings spirit or Pro oil dyes will cover the water based junk youv'e applied so far, fairly well, so here's what I'd do: First, I would "strip" the entire seat w/ rubbing alcohol, firmly rubbing in circles w/ an old towell or similar. This will help to pull out alot of the additives and some of the color and oils. do this at least twice and then let completely dry. Keep in mind, this won't remove all color, but will definitely lighten it up. Next, I would do a couple of applications of pure neatsfoot oil, again, stay away from the Tandy stuff. The neatsfoot will re-condition the leather and "lube up" the fibers to accept the proper stain.After allowing the oil to dry overnight, you can apply the Fieblings dye. Another thing I've found is that these dyes work best when thinned considerably w/ rubbing alcohol and applied "drybrush" style w/ a 2-3" paint brush like you'd use to trim when painting around the house. Sorry for the long winded response, but I spent a considerable amount of time "fixing" some of my early work, juast like you did on the seat, and the above is what I have found to work best to pull it off. I'm sure I'll get some flack for my methods, but they have worked for me in the past. Keep in mind that the seat may never have a good even finish, unless you go black, but should look and hold up, alot better than w/ the water based stuff. Good luck w/ it and keep us posted on yur end results... Po-Boy
  11. Nice job on overall assembly, lacing and coloring...
  12. Just finished this up tonight. Had cumplete artistic freedom on this one, customer only asked that it look extremely worn and abused...
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