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About coryleif

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    Columbia, MO
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    Industrial sewing machines

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  1. Thanks for the story and plate info, Gregg! One of these days I'll try setting up my 20U with this. Sadly I bought a new one before I knew any better. Maybe some day I'll get one of those sexy blue ones. Hey, the hook was still made in Japan! Anyway, for people looking for more info on the Singer 114w103, Consew 104, and any other Cornely or bonnaz embroidery machine, there's now a real nice Facebook group: It is a closed group, but you don't have to own a machine to get in. Sometimes members post machines for sale.
  2. coryleif

    Post bed machines

    A used made-in-Japan (by Seiko) Consew 289 will run you 2000+ USD depending on condition. Still in production, but probably made in China now?
  3. coryleif

    Grease for Gears in Gearboxes

    Last year I picked up some grease for my Singer 15-90 motor: Some interesting info on melting points. Been using it on the gears of my Consew 207 and 104 to see how it holds up. So far okay -- but I'm not sewing a whole lot on 'em. Hafta check out the Tri-Flow. "I saw where Uwe recommended tri-flow for the gears, but they make 2 kinds..." I assume the TF clear grease is what people are using:
  4. coryleif

    Post bed recommendations

    Maybe check out what Seiko has to offer: 16mm lift, has a listed needle size of #25, which puts you at a max of 207, most likely On the heavier side, Cowboy (one of the sponsored brands on this forum) offers a machine that will take up to a 26 needle, 20mm lift, and has a barrel-shuttle hook. Made in China.
  5. That was a photo of one of North Sails' lofts. Attached is another one. I assume the machine is on the floor and the rest of the room is one huge table. Wish I had that much sewing space. I wonder if these are Solent machines. I'm assuming they're more than 4k. Scroll to the bottom for more huge machines: BTW, mixmkr, I have a 2-point/1-step Sailrite Pro, which is their copy of the Consew 146, if you need any action shots. Looks like they're going for 2.3k right now. c
  6. Whatever you get, make sure you can crawl under the arm:
  7. coryleif

    Oil wick replacement

    Daaaang! that's some cool felt! Too spendy to buy for wicks, I would think, and "the surface has a waxy coating that repels liquids. Water droplets on the surface will bead and roll off instead of being absorbed into the fabric." [] Now I want some. Thanks, Uwe!
  8. coryleif

    Singer 111w155 Belt help!

    I've also removed all the brakes from my motors. On some, this'll cause the lever to move up, increasing the amount of pedal movement needed before engagement. I slap a piece of wood on there to tighten up the action.
  9. coryleif


    I've bought three machines from them -- two used, one new. The used machines needed some work. The post-bed machine was resting on the oil pan and was shimmed up with extra corner pads. Needed a new bobbin spring, tension assembly ... and probably some other stuff I haven't found yet. Still haven't used it a whole lot since it still has some issues. Not real impressed with that. Had "4:30 on Friday" written all over it. Serger needed some presser-foot tweaks and new needle set-screws that were rounded out. And a de-glittering (came out of a dance-wear factory). When I got the new machine they took the time to show me how to use it and made some minor adjustments for me. Nick and his crew are very nice and responsive. Just wish I hadn't had to call on 'em so many times after purchasing the machines. The guys at the St Louis shop are great to talk to -- and have a lot of experience in the trade. Not so much with leatherwork, though. It's a pretty big operation, seems, and growing. I understand that things fall though the cracks. Their prices are great, and it's nice to be able to look at machines in person. I'll get my next machine from Cowboy Bob or Techsew Ron, though. Unless Uwe finds another one of those used patchers, in the long-arm variety. See also: Just my $0.02. cory
  10. coryleif

    Best machine-sewing video tutorials?

    I get a kick outta the Springfield Leather video: Here are some basic skills from Al Bane:
  11. coryleif

    Tacsew T111-155 spitting oil

    I find this to be a pretty oily machine. Before I start sewing, I wipe down everything that might come in contact with the material -- even the bed by the uprise seems to get oil on it -- and sew on some scrap material or a paper towel till the oil's gone. After that, you should be good for the day. I find that most of my machines will have some oil hanging on the needle after they've been sitting for a while. This'll get the thread oily, too. But maybe I'm oiling them too much. If you think it's pumping too much oil, there's a little plate by the pump screen that can be adjusted (slide it open for less oil, I believe). It's in the manual. Let me know if you need a picture of it. Good luck! c
  12. coryleif

    puckers in waxed canvas stitching

    Here're some more tips on puckering from the folks at Sailrite (mostly reinforcing what's been said above): I second the Ventile spec info. Came across that years ago and it's been helpful. Eric, if you don't mind sharing, what kind of cotton-wrapped poly thread are you guys using? I've been looking at A&E's D-Core for denim totes, and wondering if there's anything better. Re used machines: it's always best to try out used machines, if possible ... unless you're buying it from Uwe. Also, check out the sponsors -- many deal in used machines. See also Keystone Sewing and Nick-O Sew. Good luck, happy sewing! c
  13. I bought a Juki 241 off eBay about 6 years ago. It was from a liquidation outfit and turned out they had no idea how to ship a sewing machine: Parts of the machine were sticking through the box and the needle positioner had exploded. It would've been better if they'd shipped it in a burlap sack. This machine's still on the "I'll deal with it later" list.
  14. coryleif

    Juki 1541-S Safety Clutch

    Great advice. Thanks, Eric! [c]