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RandyJ

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Posts posted by RandyJ


  1. Thanks David ~ I mocked-up the seat with cardboard, exact size and arc. My neighbor works for a large commercial lawnmower manufacturer. He actually had the shop guys laser cut the steel and add the proper bend. After that I welded the pins to the bottom that sit inside the 2" springs. The front of the seat is attached with a hinge I modified. All metal was then powdercoated black.

    Thanks again,

    Randy


  2. Recently completed my first "chooper style" saddle. Actually created a way to mount it on my '01 Heritage. The first test ride was a one-day, 1001 mile, 17 hour pleasure cruise out to Glacier National Park (check that one off the bucket list!). Seat performed well, but I think is best suited for shorter distances... say 700 miles or so.

    7/8 oz. leather; 1/4" kangaroo lace; 1/2" of neoprene.

    Thanks for looking!

    post-20156-062314200 1346688376_thumb.jp

    post-20156-007940800 1346688392_thumb.jp

    post-20156-069461300 1346688407_thumb.jp


  3. Thanks for the tips! Would there be any issues with not only using resolene for my resist, but also the final sealer? Are there properties in the other products that make them hold up better? This is a motorcycle seat and, using history as my guide, will be subject to every kind of weather condition~

    Thanks again!

    Randy


  4. If you want to keep it "natural" then you'll have to let the neats foot dry/soak in and then apply your resist (resolene, atom wax etc...) prior to the antique or the antique will stain the leather and darken the impressions. practice on scrap first. 1 apply resist (few coats), let dry. 2 apply antique and work it in to the impressions. 3 wipe of the antique with several pieces of CLEAN paper towel. (I fold mine up to a small square so it remains stiff and doesn't go into the impressions and refold often for a clean side). this should leave the antique in the tooling but wipe off clean from your leather. A slightly damp piece can help clean off excess stain. 4 after antique has dried apply your sealer. I use leather balm with atom wax and then you will most likely need another water proofer, such as kiwi

    and stain your seat after it's on the pan.


  5. Greetings to all! I have to admit, the more I read about how to dye / antique a bike seat and apply a water resistant/proof sealer the more confused I get. I would really appreciate some additional input!

    What I have... I've finished tooling. Leather is not secured to the seat yet.

    What I need... I would like to achieve a natural look. I'm open to using an antique to really bring out the tooling, but I don't wish to have the untooled leather darken much.

    What I've done... On a tooled scrap piece I've applied two liberal coats of neats foot oil. I like the color simply with the oil after coat one. Coat 2 is still drying.

    What I want... I'd like to know if I continue adding only neats foot oil until I get the color I want, wouldn't it be simple enough to then finish with resolene and call it good?

    Or can I still add an antique over the neats foot, then apply a top coat of resolene?

    Thanks in advance!

    Randy


  6. I love the seat, Dave. I'm making my first right now. I plan on using black dye on some parts, but want the same background as what you did. Would you mind walking me through the steps you took to finish that seat? Any help is appreciated!

    Thanks,

    Randy

    Some months back, I built a seat for a fellow who was making his first bike. I received these pics today of his ride in mock up form....It has now been torn down and sent for paint, powdercoat and chrome. It is a unique ride ....

    I always appreciate hearing from customers as their bike progresses

    Dave Theobald


  7. Working on my first tooled motorcycle seat and grips. Had planned all along to use a water-base dye and water-based clear coat. However, I've been reading a lot and now I'm curious about using oils for (possibly) a deeper, more authentic look. I also began getting concerned regarding the durability of the dye and clearcoat on a seat exposed to the elements and being sat on.

    My question: If I use an oil (Neatsfoot, Lexol NF, Fiebings, Picards, etc...) is there a separate clear coat I can use over it to prevent the oily or waxy bleed back? I want it to look cool without me wearing it later. Also, I did still plan on using black dye on some parts of the seat. If I do and use an oil over it, will the oil negatively affect the dye?

    I'd appreciate any advice ~ this site has been great! Thanks!

    Randy


  8. I'm guessing that you're not tooling the seat. I would have glued (Super 77 or High Strength 90) the seat area of the leather to the foam so I could press all the wrinkles out. Then stapled to the seat pan. Marki

    Actually, I will be tooling it. I first wanted to see if the entire piece of leather would be able to fit correctly. Last night I soaked the mid-section again and pulled to the side and re-stapled. It looks much better now, but I'm going to continue trying to smooth it out.

    Thanks Marki for the reply.


  9. Alright, I am attempting to cover a stock seat on my 2001 Heritage. I'm keeping original foam in place, no changes. I've removed all the old vinal covering. I've wet, formed, pressed and stapled (underneath, of course) a new piece of leather on the seat. It is looking pretty good, except for some puckering from left to right across the middle. It seems the leather can't be pulled in that area adequately. Do I need to cut it in a specific way to allow it to form inward, then lace together? Any suggestions? Thanks!

    post-20156-076121000 1299020683_thumb.jp

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