Wild Huntsman

No, you see, the problem for me is I don't know how to safely drop the panel on the english saddles with the single roll on the pommel. I USUALLY just drop the front of the panels to do the billet replacement. The back side doesn't look terribly inviting to work with either as far as putting it back together after popping stitches. Which is why i was looking at just pulling the rivet, but if it's actually clinched on the other side... I'm not sure how to approach this? I can replace all but the front most billet without messing with anything else but the goal is to replace them all. :\

I usually don't mind english saddles, but I've not had to work on one with a second tack being in the way like this one so far. Worried about hurting the leather around it trying to pry it out and don't have anything thin enough to get under it currently.

I haven't posted in these forums for quite some time so hoping it's still fairly active. I got this saddle in for billet replacements but I've got the issue of not being sure how to drop the panels on an english saddle with the single roll up front, and I would just wiggle the needle up in there but this second rivet/tack is holding the flap down too tightly to get to the front billets(they all need replaced on both sides). I'm not sure if there is a tool that can safely get under the rivet, or if someone knows where to pop seams along the front on a single roll saddle and still be able to put it back together or do I need to just tell them that front billet is a lost cause? Any help would be greatly appreciated; I've done billet replacements before but the saddles always had the double roll up front where you can easily pop and replace the stitching to just drop the underside down and out of the way.

Hmmm. Guess I'll have to dig up a pattern somewhere and give them a shot. I do like that there's more room to make them decorative while staying functional.

Thankyou! Tt does help, though I think id have to drop the weight for the layered sections a bit. Hands hurt just thinking about getting a needle through all that(no machine)!

Like the look of them! That dove wing style seems like it's getting fairly popular. Do they really work well??

@Round Brim Hat, they didn't specify why they wanted one, just that they had been considering doing it themselves but had no tools or experience. Most things i found on the internet say with maintenance they can last a long time, but without proper care it sounds like they last a few months. Though also through internet browsing, it sounded like the people who do use them like them as an alternative to rubber/nathe/etc when trying to avoid metal mouthpieces or going bitless altogether. @awharness I'd be sure to let them know there's a chance it'll wear through fast depending on the variables. I was also thinking wrapping it with another lighter weight piece around the mouth portion might help delay major chew damage? Was also considering trying to line it where the rings would go, but not sure... @AdamTill, yes. This is why I was hoping to find out if anyone knew where to get hold of more "cleanly" tanned, durable leather. Meroth leather bits boast being 100% chemical free, so I was rather hoping they didn't get all their leather custom tanned...

Hey there forum folks, been a while. Someone just asked me about making them a leather bit, and the construction should be simple enough, except that I'm not 100% sure what leather to use. I certainly don't want something that would be harmful to have in the mouth, but also want to be sure the leather will be able to handle the conditions of being in a mouth. Is vegetable tanned the best way to go? Is there a good strong leather that's tanned without any harmful chemicals at all that wont cost an arm and a leg to get hold of? If someone knows or could give some input, it'd be greatly appreciated!

Looking better with the adjustments. I'm also more used to English equipment, and always think Western tack could use some strap keepers. If it helps any with the browband measurements in the future, add 8-10" to what you think the finished size should be, and if you're using a wider crown piece or having separate crown/throat slots, a couple more extra inches on top of that will help to start from. Easier to take away as you go than get to the finished product and find you need more!

That is quite awesome, definitely need a picture of it being worn; good work!

AdamTill, thankyou for the link to the other link! That will be very useful! fivewayswelshcobs, thankyou for letting me know about the staples. I was already aware webbing is what is normally used from deconstructing two worn out saddles--which is how I go the wood and steel tree--and the very scarce youtube videos I could dig up. I was more asking if it would be detrimental to build up the seat like one does on a western saddle. The plastic tree did not cost me very much, so I was thinking about trying it that way if it wouldn't botch the whole thing.

I would also like to know if it would be an especially bad idea to build the seat up like one does for a western saddle. I probably wouldn't on the wood and steel one, but maybe for the plastic one...??

Hello there, been a while since I shared something, so here are the last two bridles I finished from last year. I'm sorry there aren't better pictures of the black one, I only have those images because I was able ot ask for them from the person I sent it off with. They could both be a bit better I'm sure, and the construction is a bit odd but it's hard to tell where adjustments went in those old illuminations! The throat and cheeks are one piece on each side and adjust at the top and at the bottom. The black one is made from black latigo, and the red from vegetable tan that was dyed with eco-flo all in one, since it was handy. Not sure how many I'll make in this style, since the adjustment is a bit awkward, but they were relatively simple and are kind of fun regardless.

For a first bridle that doesn't look half bad at all! Certainly more to look at than my first. But I do agree with the others; those cheek pieces are quite long. The crown is a hair short and the throat may be also? I'm not used to large buckles myself, so I'll just say that if they're staying out of their eyes, and not pushing into their ears they are probably alright. Keep up the work and remember, measure 20 times and hopefully cut once! ;P

Hello, I have a couple English style trees I'm wanting to build on. One of them was pulled from a worn out synthetic and is fiberglassed wood and steel(it is sturdy still), and the other I found on ebay and is some type of plastic(never built on). I would buy trees from an actual suplier but I don't know where one acquires English trees. Regardless, my question is does anyone know how to build onto the plastic tree?? Is it safe to put tacks or staples into? If not, how would one go about attaching the webbing for the billets to it, and the rest? I have not made a saddle before, and I do not know of anyone that isn't several states away(or countries) who knows how to construct an English saddle, I can't even find a local person to reflock them. I'm hoping there's someone on here who is able to help answer, otherwise I suppose experimenting on the plastic tree will have to do.

Box cutters do a fine job for cutting out shapes, as long as you don't slip!

@harrington, I suppose, but it will have to be for another headstall, or made out of thinner leather; just enough room for the browband to slide freely and squirt cleaner in. @vacacaballo, Thankyou! And yes, definitely not for cheek rubbing ponies! Yes, when it's adjusted to the smallest hole the top spike indeed makes the browband sit higher than it wants to. Another thing that will have to be remembered for the next; spikes are riveted on pretty good. Also couldve been remedied if I had used a concho to hold the browband on instead, but I didn't want to go that route. As far as bit adjustment, I tend to follow the one little wrinkle rule, to make sure its sitting where it wont bang into teeth without being made to. The rings on the snake snaffle are fairly sized and a little further from the mouthpiece due to the offset style, and I only made the bridle to fit for non-offset snaffles with regular ring size and for regular shanked bits. If I switch to one of his regular bits I could drop the buckle one hole and the browband would sit normally on him. And I may indeed attempt some reins to match, if i can find some good solid, pale leather to work with. The pink isn't paint, but the color sure pops!

This looks really good! The edges all look clean and the designs are beautiful! Well done. :D

Does it really need one? I know the purpose a throatlatch serves, but every sliding ear headstall I've seen lacks one, and I've seen both English and Western riders go without(or have it so loose it might aswell not be there).

Like the title says, this is my first time making a bridle that adjusts at the top. Naturally, I couldn't make it totally plain, and in hind sight I probably should've either left the top spikes on the cheeks off, or have placed them lower to give the browband more room on the smallest setting. The brow is the average 15", and end to end it'll go from 36"-41 1/2". Considering the ring size on snaffles, I wonder if the cheeks should be a hair shorter also.. But, I'm still pretty pleased with it!

Thankyou! If I recall correctly the leather throughout is around 9oz., there is no backing leather as I do everything by hand, and I can't afford the extra money and time for lining when not necessary.

I did this one a few months ago, mostly with spare pieces. I know some things are off here or there, but it's functional and I'm still pleased with it, mostly since it's my first time doing basketweave stamping. I might like to do another like this, in a lighter color or natural tone.

do they have websites? the only windmill saddle site ive found so far is a co.uk site with only store hours and a number.

i do not recall the best but i believe a while back it was mentioned you needed a legit business account with weaver to purchase such things from them? if that is true then i dont think i could purchase materials from them for quite some time as this hobby is still trying to get to where it can support itself, much less turn into a full business anytime soon.

hello, i figured i would post a thread to ask where to find what im looking for while i peruse through the older posts, since even i find something in the back it may no longer be as useful as it was then. im looking for a few things : white/colored leather(thick/sturdy enough to make tack from) good patent leather good leather hides in general(tired of tandy, surprise surprise) tack hardware in bulk(especialy english buckles/studs) heavy duty elastic(like for girths or side reins) a good place to get a custom stamp for my makers mark im sure the list could go on but these are the ones im most itnerested in currently. if anyone can help with even osme of the list, ill be very greatfull. :D