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leathersmyth

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Posts posted by leathersmyth


  1. Thanks for response.

     I have been threading patchers for 50 years or so......... so  fiqure  that should be okay...  29-3 needle system.. Timing is set up how should be,  needle right way.. (been  over 40 years since put needle in wrong way..  :)   )    Only thing is check spring was totally messed up... and jerry rigged so at least it sort of works how should, but still needs to be replaced..  Wont be an issue replacing spring when it gets here... (have pulled machines apart many times through the years......)    Might be all that is stopping from working proper.. But no one around here has so ordered one few days ago, but wont be here for few weeks..... 

     any guess /thought if any other model carrier shuttle carrier would work if try to replace? bobbin race?   or is the 29k51 specific to just that model??

     

     


  2. I picked up a 29k51 the other day and overall its in good shape.  pulled completely apart when got back home......  The person selling didnt know much about it other than it would not sew.  So now that it is cleaned up and all back together, the timing is how it should be... But when the hook catches the thread, it pulls it under the shuttle carrier piece instead of just the bobbin, and stops sewing.  Any guess or thoughts on why it is looping under the shuttle carrier? I put the needle in that came with machine plus one from my 29k71 and same thing. The check spring was a mess when pulled apart and does need a new one, but i jigged it so at least it will work now instead of being bent like was... The timing is proper,  everything is clean and running like should. It catches the thread proper, only thing is the looping under the carrier.  Needles the cause, check spring the cause? any guesses would be great! 

    Plus, is the shuttle carrier still available even though from other models (does anyone know?) ?    interchangeable?? If so, any guess what model would fit it?


  3. On those types of bags, the lining as put in last and then stitched, The only real way to get in there is to unstitch where the lining is sewn. Which will be the threads where the frame is....  It is going to be a chain stitch so if you open the chain the right way,it will just pull out like a flour sack stitch (if you have ever seen flour sacks that are stitched closed)  You pull the thread as much as you need to ,to get your hand in to stitch the areas needed.   I have rebuilt 100's of these sorts of bags,and made many of the style, so i know rebuilding will take time. And the thread will be finicky to restitch where you need to restitch....  Sometimes if there are areas of missing stitch with good areas in between,it is easier to pull out the good stitch and replace say 10 inch of thread with new thread rather than  6 inch of one stitch holes needing replacing.....


  4. By the looks of it, there was a "pull tab" at the center lock area. So you would grasp the tab to open. You can see the lighter area of colour on the side leather.

     The lining used would of been a irish linen material. The thread sewn with would prob of been a 4 cord irish linen thread. Maybe a 5 cord but most times were sewed 4 cord. Barbour irish linen thread was the main supplier/type of thread used back then.  What colour is the thread? White or yellow were the main colours used on bags from that era... but back then  barbours came in yellow,white,brown,black, were the main colours. But i have balls of thread in yellow,white,cream,brown,black,light blue,green,red,orange,grey,navy.....

    There is the yellow or tan that prob would of used back then. Needed to be run through a wax pot on machines when being sewed... Hand sewing you need to use beeswax on thread.

       Depends how far you want to rebuild it. You can pull completely apart, pull all the thread,restiffen leather,resew it all and put back together. Or restitch areas that need to be restitched, Brasso will make the locks shine again if you want that.

    image1.jpeg


  5. I would say 2/3 0z would be what you would want. Can use thicker,but will have to skive down on edges bit more,and the spine won't bend as easy. There are a couple ways you could do.....  1) Like the picture so the inside flap is stitched on the three sides.You have three pieces of leather. the outside and the two inside flaps...... 2) Other way, you make leather about 6/7/8 inch wider depending on how mch leather you want on the inside flaps..., you then fold the longer width on to itself, so when you stitch it you will only have stitches on the top and bottom of the cover and not the side edge.  Doing that way, the corners would be square instead of following the book corners. You would only use one piece of leather for the entire cover. doing this way,and thickness of leather used,you might need to gauge a line at the fold so you get a nice fold..Biggest thing when making is you will need to have the cover fit when book is closed. If you make it to fit when the book is open,it will be too tight and book will not be able to close. 


  6.     I have prob 1000 clicker dies that i picked up from a company out of new york at one time when i bought a bunch of stuff when they closed up.  There are all styles and sorts of wallet dies in the boxes. Keep thinking i should sell them....  :)


  7.     I actually have two of these tucked away. ( or ones that look similar..)  Have not used for a few years. I think i may have a manual tucked away in a drawer. Will see if i can find...... Off the top of my head, they take the same curved hook and awl as a landis......  Have thought a few times, i should list these rather than having put away. I picked up thinking would work for me,but didn't work as i had planned... 

     The older one looks like the picture. The other one is a newer model.... Has a housing covering the bits....


  8. Depends, if you are talking hard or soft case. Have made both types. No pattern, made to fit the guitar as needed...

    The  hard one,  is dovetailed frames. So woodworking skills and tools come in handy. The soft is pretty easy. Padding,Leather and zippers.                                                                                                                            


  9. 12 hours ago, EdCubberly said:

    Hi, 

    Do you have them in nickel plate ? The pic shown is gold color. Please send me pricing with shipping to the US to edcubberly@gmail.com.

    Thanks !

    Ed

         It is a shoe finding place in Montreal.  I just sent you the link of company. You might be able to look at shoe finding places in the U.S.  I just know i have gotten them from the company in the past. They should also come in nickle, because i have gotten them in both colours before.


  10. Looks Great!

     When i saw the post, I thought, Huh.... Someone else has singer stools...    :)

     Not quite the same.... These are old cast iron ones that can raise and lower depending on machine...

    image2.JPG

    image1.JPG


  11. 1 hour ago, Big Sioux Saddlery said:

    Lol, sorry Mjolnir.  A Sight Feed spotter is an old single shot spotting machine from the early 1900's.  The name something or other "Smith" is cast on one side of the head, and "Sight Feed" on the other, but within the trade they are commonly known as as "Sight Feed" spotters.  A Landis 3 is a wonderful old needle and awl stitcher, patterned somewhat after the Campbell and Randall machines.  I can also see the wheel of what appears to be a hand bobbin winder for possible the Landis 3 or the Pearson #6.

    Give the person a cigar.....  :)   Yes, there is a landis three, in the background, a spot machine, a landis three bobbin winder as well as a pearson bobbin winder. Puritan machines are chain stitch machines,have a couple..... I use them on some things i make...... The one has a three foot post on it. I can stitch deep things when i need..  Ie: golf bags, hat boxes...

     

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