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Everything posted by StrayDogLamont

  1. I use both types of hand sewing depending on the project. I have an awl which I'll use for long lines of stitches, and two curved needles which I use for small/tight areas, or areas which need extra strength. I often groove my stitch lines on the inside, such as where a belt loop will be sewn - knives are sharp. In the case of this holster, the belt loop and the flap-loop have grooved stitch lines on the inside to eliminate the possibility of the pistol breaking the stitches. Thanks for the tips on tools. I really should get some of these things - I've been doing leatherwork without purchasing any leather tools (the awl was a gift). The only specialty tool I have is a slicker, and I made that. The overstitch wheel and 4-prong punch sound like terrific tools I should have. Thanks again for your help.
  2. I have done quite a bit of research for early 19th Century prosthetics, and have found a few pictures, and that's how I came up with the basic harness design. The pivot of the elbow has apparently been a difficulty for those folks as well. I had found one which used crossed straps which may work, but could cause some rubbing. And there is one with hinges, but like myself, most of our blacksmiths are amateur blacksmiths, and I'm not so sure we could pull off good flat hinges. I'll be talking to them to see what we can do. Thanks for your input.
  3. Getting the blacksmith to make hinges would probably be the way to go. The tangs of those hinges should run nearly the length of the cuff and forearm piece, I imagine. As I said, the concern is that his forearm is quite short, and stability is crucial. I suppose that the best method of attachment for such hinges would be rivets. I do plan to line the cuff and forearm piece with sheep hide (hair inward.) Even though I intend to line the pieces with sheep hide, you're right that under the elbow could pose its own problems. Thanks again Aaron.
  4. The stitches are about 3/8ths of an inch apart (give or take) I could bring them to 1/4 or less, I suppose. How close should they be? I'm here to learn. Thanks Chief.
  5. Thanks Peter. Yes, I drilled the holes, and they could have been smaller for sure. I have a heckuva time getting the needles I have through anything smaller. I suppose the answer is "buy smaller needles!" Thanks again.
  6. Thanks Aaron. Yes, a shoulder strap would seem to keep the whole rig in place more securely. I also thought that if the upper cuff were actually connected (as one piece of leather) under the elbow to the forearm, this would cause the forearm portion to tighten if the elbow was bent. Combine this with the shoulder strap, and perhaps were are getting somewhere for a reasonable and practical prosthetic. Thanks again!
  7. You folks are very kind. I am attaching another picture which shows the stitches more clearly. Incidentally, I'm still working on the distressed look - the scars are just a head-start!
  8. Greetings Folks, I'm a living historian (F&I War, RevWar, 1812, and 1830's.) I volunteer at an historic village in NJ (blacksmith, militia, and leathershop). I am the only volunteer who has done any leatherwork. We have a new 16 year old volunteer who was born without most of his right forearm. He is currently interpreting the Carpenter Shop, and wants to be able to do more. We thought that it would be nice to try and fabricate a prosthetic arm which would fit in the period (1836) and would have the ability to hold a chisel securely so that this young lad can work - in "period." The lad's upper arm is a bit more slender than usual, and his forearm terminates about 3 inches from the crease of his elbow. His forearm is tapered/conical in shape, and it is therefore necessary to secure the appendage to some sort of cuff which is attached to the upper arm. At the end of the forearm I have designed what will be a relatively lightweight "hand" that uses a strap-clamp like mechanism to secure a chisel or similar tool. My concern is that even though the hand is not heavy, striking the chisel with a mallet could cause the forearm portion to move out of place. I have attached my preliminary sketch (since this sketch, I have revised the tool-clamping device.) So, the advice I'm looking for has to do with ensuring the stability of the forearm prosthetic under semi-strenuous conditions. I would be very grateful for any ideas or advice in this regard. I figured that harness-makers would likely be the most knowledgeable. Thank you, and may God bless.
  9. Greetings Folks! I'm a newbie here, but as an introduction, I thought that I'd place my newest leather project up: a half-flap holster for myself. It is made of approximately 9 oz leather. The leather I used already was scarred, so I thought it would be perfect for a distressed look - it's not supposed to look pretty, just functional. The style I chose to simulate was one from around 1879. Generally speaking, aside from the military, flap holsters pretty much ceased to be used by 1890. I began to do leatherwork when I began making knives - they need sheaths you know. Anyway, I've been doing this for about four years now. Please, feel free to critique. I am an amateur, and I came to this site for advice and information. Oh, and don't be afraid to hurt my feelings - I served in the Marines (1989-1993). Thank you for your attention, and may God bless.
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