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thenrie

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About thenrie

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 01/30/1959

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://westerntrailrider.com
  • Yahoo
    tthenrie@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Salem, UT
  • Interests
    Horse packing and old west history.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saddle repair, minor leatherwork
  • Interested in learning about
    saddle-making.

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  1. The Tipmann uses different needle size numbers: 794x200 for 207 and 277, 794x250 for 346 and 415, chisel point for leather. I just didn't know which size thread I should order. I appreciate the helpful responses. Looks like I'll get my stitcher ordered this week.
  2. The Boss handles up to 415, from what I read. Thanks for your input.
  3. After spending the last hour trying to find what I need, I decided to just ask where the saddlers are. I'm getting ready to order a Tipmann Boss specifically for doing saddle skirts. Can't figure out what thread and needle sizes approximate the heavy thread I've been using for hand stitching saddle skirts. Need to get it ordered with the unit. Suggestions, please. 277? 346? 415?
  4. Any accessories with that Tipmann? Such as the stirrup guide or material guide? How much for shipping to Utah?
  5. I just ordered a speed reduction unit for the machine. I also ordered a new set of feet, as the ones on the machine are for sewing piping. I have thread in sizes #138 and #207. I bought needles in sizes 140, 160, and 180 (135/16 and 17). The #69 thread I bought came with the base crushed and was unusable, so have to reorder that. Looking forward to being able to start stitching! From what I read in a couple places, the 111W155 is capable of handling #207 thread on a #24 needle, but I have read on this forum that it doesn't do well with it. Will the 155 do 207 on leather? What's your experience?
  6. Got it all refurbed and properly set up. Here's a shot of it. I still need to go through the motor and build a table for it. The motor actually sounds pretty good, after running it a few times. I expect it could use a set of bearings, though. So far, I'm into this machine for $293, including a couple spools of thread, several sizes of needles, and a different set of feet. I'll have a bit more into it once I build a table and buy new bearings for the motor. I realize I probably could have found one for about the same amount I'll have into this one, but working on it and learning how it works has been fun. I get real satisfaction from taking a tool that doesn't work anymore and restoring it to working order. Does everybody have the trouble I have uploading photos to this forum? Seems like they would update things to have an automatic photo downsizer for uploads. Even my free Wordpress website does that.
  7. Thanks. Found it the video. Should do the trick. I'll post a few pics once I get things finished and tested. Now on to refurbing the motor!
  8. I have the needle height set, the feed dog set, the needle centered in the dog hole, and the needle timed to the hook. However, both the inside and outside feet are out of adjustment. I can't find anything that tells me how to set the timing on the feet. The inside foot is close, but the outside foot is not lifting high enough. It's just barely releasing pressure. I figure it's just going to be a matter of fiddling with the cam on the arm shaft until I get it right. One thing that concerns me, though, is that the machine felt smooth until I installed the new belt. Now it feels way tighter than I expected. I replaced the ball bearings and they are smooth, so that's not the problem. I expected it to be tight, but not like this. It was a cheap $12 belt. Could it be too small? Will it wear-in and loosen up a bit with use or is that normal?
  9. Well, I have the machine back together. Now to get everything properly set up and timed. I can tell this is going to take some time and a lot of trial and error. So, I have some questions for some of you who are familiar with the 111W machines or similar industrial triple-feed machines. - Is there a proper order-of-operations for setting up and timing these machines? Again, I completely disassembled the entire machine, cleaned all the parts, and reassembled it. The military manual linked on another thread details how to set the individual processes, but no order-of-operations. - My hook basket assembly has a little up-down movement in it. Should I tighten it up by moving the lower bushing up to reduce clearance between the hook gear and the bushings to remove said slop or is a little slop allowable? - How do the hook assembly and bobbin case function? I have to replace the bobbin opener, so I need to make sure the replacement fits properly. I have a good description on how to time the hook to the needle. - Is there a proper parts diagram, showing how all the parts relate, such as a blowup, available for the 111W155? I have the one linked on one of the threads here, but it is not clear on some parts and the photocopy quality is poor. I also have the military manual linked on one of the threads. It's much better.
  10. I was able to find a supplier on eBay that had two new-old stock Federal 1202SA bearings. Just received them today. Got the machine completely disassembled, all the parts de-rusted and cleaned up, and ready to reassemble. I'm quite pleased with the way everything came out. No serious pitting and no appreciable wear that I can find in the shafts and bushings. The bobbin cup and saddle cleaned up and polished nicely. Ordered a new tensioner assembly and bobbin winder, should be here tomorrow. I ordered a package each of 135/16 and 135/17 needles. After reading a bunch of different threads on the forum, I am thinking I'll be using #69 and #138 thread for most of my projects, but also read that my machine will handle #207 with a #24 needle if I am careful. What is your take on this? I'm getting ready to make an order for thread and needles and wondering whether I would be wasting money/time messing with the #207 on my 111W155. My leatherwork includes items like custom bridles, spur straps, knife sheaths, holsters, chaps, etc, and saddlery, up to now all hand-stitched, but with this machine I hope also to get a little into garments, such as vests. I know the machine is light for heavy saddle skirts, but I was hoping that with the #207 thread it might work. I am not a heavy volume shop and saddle skirts take me forever. Just can't afford a Tippman Boss yet.
  11. Thanks for the reply, Cowboy Bob. I guess I'll put this one back together with the small bobbin and just look around for a Juki large basket and maybe do the mod later on...if I decide it would be useful. Any info re the ball bearings?
  12. Sorry to do this, but I'm going to revive this thread again. Question: The McClellan I am going to rebuild did not have fleece on the bars, but I thought I'd add the fleece. Seems to keep the saddle from wandering on the horse's back. I see the guys in the vintage photos fleeced theirs. Any advice on that? MilitaryHorse, are you still watching this thread?
  13. Hey folks. I picked up a 111W155 yesterday for $25. Couldn't pass it up. As you can guess, it needs a refurb, as it has been stored outside for quite some time. I've refurbished a couple machine lathes, so I didn't shy away from a little surface rust on this machine. I have completely disassembled the machine and am getting ready to soak everything in Evap-O-Rust, before I polish up the shafts and pretty parts. I need to replace the two ball bearings on the arm shaft. The number on the bearings is Federal 12022A. I haven't been able to find that bearing or a crossover number for any other manufacturer . Anybody know what replacement bearing works? I haven't taken actual measurements on them yet, but thought I'd ask and see if somebody already knows what works. Also, I have quite a bit of felt for oil wicks leftover from the metal lathe refurbs. The sewing machine seems to have some sort of fiber wicks and cloth string wicks. Anybody see any problem with me replacing those wicks with felt? I need to replace the tensioner and hook assembly. Will the 111W155 take the large bobbin modification I've seen done on the Consew? Figured that while I have the machine apart, and since I have to buy a new hook assembly anyway, it wouldn't be much of a problem to do the mod...if it will work on the Singer. Seems like the Singer bobbins are pretty small for the larger thread for leatherwork. Cowboy Bob, I hope you are still watching the forum. I'm pretty sure I'll be calling on you for a couple other parts. Once I start reassembling everything, I'm sure I'll need some coaching on the setup and tuning. Sorry, no photo. I still haven't figured out how to post photos on this forum. I'll try again later.
  14. I know this thread is a little old...but then so am I. From where do you source your brass parts? What weight of leather did you use? What type of leather (skirting, harness, etc) I have a late 1800s McClellan knock-off I'd like to rebuild/restore to usable condition. I've been told a 7-8oz skirting leather, but that feels heavier than what was originally on it. The original leather is suitable for patterns, but most of the seams were ripping out. Any handy hints and suggestions would be welcome. I'll be hand-stitching.
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