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  1. tostrap

    Wtb: Tippman Boss

    Hi All! I am looking for a Tippman Boss in good working order... I am located in Toronto, Canada. If you are looking to sell yours, please send offers! Thanks!
  2. Hi Tor, Thanks for your clarification again! I will keep looking! Much appreciated!
  3. Hi Tor, Thanks for the feedback on the pics/machine! I brought some veg tan to test and tried three layers of 6-7 oz for kicks today and there was no problem. From what I can tell it seemed very smooth! It seems in reverse the back stitch is a fraction/portion of what it is going forward (e.g. going forward at 6mm, when I went to back stitch the stitch was shorter). Is this normal? Also, I tested the machine with a size #20 needle and #69 thread. This is the setup the shop uses for bags. I asked if she used a thicker thread (#207) before and she said no. I couldn't test the machine with #207 thread... is this something one should consider doing before buying a machine? it wasn't a practical/feasible request today so I could not. She had not used a thicker thread on that machine and so could not confirm.... Am I being paranoid? Or, should it be ok? She seemed quite meticulous with her equipment and was very specific with the details about the maintenance.... (I am leaning towards pulling the trigger on this one!!!) Thanks again!
  4. Hi Tor, Thanks again for your expertise! Given the cost of the other machines I am leaning more towards the 167 because of price. I'd go for the 767 the cost to swap for a 110 motor would be another additional cost. The other machines are about double this one. I also have to get more info on the subclass (but I don't know if the seller actually knows). I just had a chance to look at and try the 167 in person. It does havethe -373 designation!! It is has had a new/different front plate and a number of parts replaced/maintained recently, including a new needle bar. Clutch motor. $750... What do you think? Thanks again!!
  5. Hi again! Thanks to the fine folks here at leatherworker.net I've actually been able to amass a selection of 'workable' machines! Again the main purpose is for the machine to be able to sew veg tan leather (2-3 layer 5-7oz) (and softer leather) with a fairly 'heavy' top stitch (138, 207, 277 (would be nice, but probably not with the list I've compiled...?). The choices, from most $$$ to least $, are: Pfaff 335 (most expensive, but comes with a bunch of attachments (that I may or may not use) $1500), Pfaff 1245, Pfaff 545, Adler 767 (though 220 will be an issue, so probably not), and Adler 167 (most affordable ~$750). I could see the cylinder being the most versatile in the long run, but its kind of out of my budget right now (I'm also not sure of the value of that machine on the used market). Which would be the 'best' pick? Thanks much for the wisdom and insight!!
  6. Tor and Wiz, again thank you for your knowledge and insight! Very much appreciated! Finally I found one machine thats actually in the ballpark! ! again, thanks and happy new year!!
  7. Hi All! My search for a sewing machine continues... I just missed an opportunity for a Pfaff 145 (which a number of members here seem to have had good things to say about it), but the same seller said they have a Adler 167 available. However, I have not been able to find too much info about it. I found the manual and parts booklet, but those did not tell me very much info (that I can translate anyway). Parts do not seem as readly available either? Can anyone shed any insight into whether this machine is suitable for veg tan leather (double layer of 6-7oz on the upper end is my usual)? The seller said 'they use #21 needles with thick thread'... thanks for your help!
  8. thanks wiz.... much appreciated! i'll keep looking....
  9. Hi All! I was hoping to get some opinions.... I typically hand stitch everything, but recently came across a juki 553 for $400. Has anyone here had any experience with this machine? Would types of leather would it be suitable for? i've been working with some aniline and suede, but would this machine be ok for veg tan leather as well? Thanks and much appreciated!
  10. ***edit*** - i just found more info on 'scandanavian' or hidden tang handles... and drilling/rasping methods... this looks like the construction that was originally used on this blade... maybe i'll stick to this method. Thanks for the clarification Bruce.... much appreciated! On a side/related note... from the tutorials i've found on hidden tang knives it seems that the handle must be split and hollowed out for the tang of the knife to fit in to... on the original handle it seems that the handle is drilled out and the tang inserted in. Can anyone confirm that the handle can be made this way (drilled from the top as opposed to split and glued back together)? i don't have a ban saw... i do have a mitre saw, which could be an option, but the blade is quite thick... thanks!
  11. Thanks TJ and Knipper! I don't know a whole lot about antiques... does this mean that the knife is worth more 'damaged' than fixed? To be honest I bought it more to use it than not so I guess thats a moot point. I just don't like the thought of possibly 'destroying' something that has 'historical significance'? That said I did narrow down my choice of handle wood and am trying to make sure I have all the parts and tools to do this... any suggestions/hints regarding fitting the blade into the handle would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again!
  12. very cool idea! thanks for the suggestion! not sure if it will work out for this one as the tang seems to be compression fit, but i'd love to try this out on something else...
  13. Hi Knipper Thanks for all the suggestions and advice... Another project to add to the bench! Much appreciated!
  14. Here are a couple of pics of the damage.... Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! first pic - knife disassembled second pic - crack on top third pic - crack on bottom thanks!
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