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About mrfixit

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  • Location
    Outside Dallas Texas
  • Interests
    Hunting, Fishing, Shooting, Woodworking

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  • Interested in learning about
    Holsters and accoutrements

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  1. Thanks, seller didn't have a lot of info on it. I asked what it was used for, his reply was "it was in a sewing business "
  2. Local sale close to home, this is offered about $125. Will this do holsters?
  3. It is for the S&W M&P 2.0 Compact 9mm with 4" barrel. As far as time frame......I'm waiting on a holster so I can take it to qualifications and then start carrying it. Not really a deadline to be had, more like when I get it. I've got a holster cut out that I need to do some work on then glue up, sew (by hand), and mold. I've been sitting on this a while so.....no deadline.
  4. I just don't have time to do it myself by the time I need it, and I can't seem to find what I want on the web. What I'm looking for is a simple pancake holster with thumb break and matching single mag pouch for a S&W 2.0 9mm with 4" barrel. It is for plain clothes duty so the thumb break is a must have. I can find a holster I like, for instance the El Paso leather Tortilla holster, but they don't make a matching mag pouch. I've made a few myself over the years, and have posted some pics here. I just need to know who makes this type of set up. Scott
  5. I need to make myself a holster for a 4" S&W M&P 2.0 Compact 9mm. I have a pattern for a Glock 19. My question is can I use the same stitch line around the gun, or will I need to change it? The holster will be a pancake style with minimal detail molding, and a thumb break for retention. I'm much more concerned with the stitch line than the holster design itself. Similar to this:
  6. I would be interested to see the 80/20. I've made a few holsters for myself only, all for 1911 or Hi Power for duty wear plain clothes. I use the same pattern for both weapons, molding is the only difference.
  7. This holster and mag pouch is over 4 years old as you see it today. I made it back then and just never posted any photos of it. This is and has been my daily wear for all that time. I am an arson investigator, so this has been worn 40+ hours a week for 4 years. This holster has held up well, I like the horsehide. the finish is natural for the horsehide, and the elephant was some scraps from a Tandy shop in Lubbuck Texas. I've been back several times in the last 4 years and they haven't had any exotic scraps again. At the time I grabbed the elephant, I also got a bit of Ostrich and Shark. I post this because I have another weapon I plan to begin carrying for duty. Some would say the 1911 is an old design, so I'm updating to the more modern Browning/FN Hi Power. I hope you can hear the sarcasm in my typing since the Hi Power was put into service in 1935. Be that as it may, I like this holster design and found out the pattern for a 1911 will fit the Hi power very well. Jeff Hays was kind enough to let me use his pattern for this holster, I made very small changes to the outline. I will be using a magazine pouch pattern from JLS Leathers and will be modifying it slightly as well. I would be glad to answer questions about this, and I plan on a 'step by step' on the Hi Power project in another post.
  8. It's been a while, a few years actually since I was here and active in any way. Back in '11 I made a few Belt holsters for myself with mag pouches. I started with cowhide, and moved to horsehide. Jeff Hays was quite a bit of help with patterns. I finally made a nice natural horsehide set for my 1911, and was so satisfied that I pretty much stopped making holsters all together. I never intended to do them for anyone else, and I haven't changed my outlook. I've made a few knife sheaths for fun too. The holster has been worn on duty as an investigator 40 hours a day since I got it done, still looks great. But here I am again, and it's been so long since I did any work with horsehide I forgot a lot of what I thought I knew. My plan is to make a new holster for a different pistol. I have a FN Hi Power that I would like to start carrying on duty. Since the last horsehide rig has lasted so well, I would like to make another for the FN. My questions are who has quality horse butts now? I'm looking for heavy and with the natural markings or tiger striping. The last holster was left natural, but I can't remember what the finish was. So, what is the recommended finish for horsehide? 50-50 mop n glo with water still a good plan?
  9. I just build holsters for me, no business or anything, so less wasted material and less set up cost would be better. That being said, I have a new to me Browning Hi-Power that will need a good holster. Just out of curiosity I have stuck it in my 1911 holsters and seems to be a prety close fit. I'm wondering if I can use that pattern to make a holster for the BHP? What I am really wondering is if anyone else has done this, and if so, how much do I need change the stiching on the outline to make it tight and right? Or do I just need to pony up and buy another pattern? Thanks in advance.
  10. What weight veg tan leather should i use on a motorcycle seat? I'm recovering and using the stock foam. I want to do some tooling on the leather.
  11. I am asking for help folks. I 'kinda know' what I need to be doing, but I want to make sure before I mess anything up. Here is the backstory if it is of interest to anyone'; I have a bike, Yamaha Vstar 1100 Classic to be exact. I have a long range plan of customizing it and am taking it a step at a time. Basically, I am going for "western" or "modern day Cowboy" theme. To that end I plan on a custom paint job with artwork on the tank, and custom leather seat and saddle bags both in brown 'oil tan' type finish. I plan on making a set of calvary saddle bags to fit the bike. For the seat, I want it to remind folks of a western horse saddle. So right now I am asking for some help with the seat. I actually find the stock seat on the classic comfortable, so I just want to recover it. My inspiration for this is from AZ Rider and his thread here. I bought a used seat for a classic, so I have 2 the same, one to ride and one to work on. This is the seat in stock form: I don't like how the seam for the top piece goes all the way to the tank and most of the way to the pan. So, I marked up the set to show where I want my top to be: I took the seat cover off the pan and cut out what I had marked on a piece of about 6-7 once leather. Even after making the top a bit smaller than stock, I will still have to stretch/form the sides over the seat to make it fit correctly. Here, I have marked the portion of the sides that will have to be stretched/formed to fit the contour of the seat foam: This is as far as i have gone so far. For what it's worth, I have made several holsters and mag pouches. I've wet formed leather and horsehide. My questions, in no particular order should I trim the top smaller? I plan on doing the Mexican loop braid to secure the top to the side. I want to make sure that the braid isn't going to irritate my legs when I ride. I plan on a basket weave stamp on the top, anything I should know or worry about there? My thought was to overlap the edge of the top and the side, gluing them together, then braiding, instead of butting the edges together and braiding. Good, bad, other ideas? I don't even know what else I don't know at this point, so, suggestions are more than welcome. Mr Fixit
  12. Thanks for the help. I think the Calvary style is what I am looking for. The question now is, how does the "floppy' leather work at highway speeds?
  13. I've got a vision for my bike, it's gonna take a while to get there but I'm ready to start working on it. Basically, what I have in mind is a "cowboy" or "old west" style to it. To that end, I am ready to start saddlebags. I'm planning on some tooling details, and brown leather not black. What I am asking is what design details make a better saddlebag? Things like pros or cons of the flap fasteners, depth versus width, and even thickness of leather, or to use a lining or not. Basically, what changes would make a good saddlebag into a great saddlebag. . I'm not looking for patterns but the details. I am planning on matching the seat and bags Looking forward to advice.
  14. I've only just started with horse hide, but you might want to hold off on dyeing it. These i did dip dye in brown Fiebings cut like 8:1 denatured alcohol to dye, it is a very light color that I might even call tan. But, I think the dye evened out the striping. The mag pouch I finished first. Cut, dip dye, dry, glue, sand edges, sew, wet, form, dry, oil, dry, finish. The mag pouch I finished with Tan Kote, and the stripes barely show. So the holster I did all the same, but the finish was Resolene. Same thing, the stripes barely show. On another thought, I also tried the resolene on some undyed horse hide, and the stripes showed up fairly well. But I just thought that that piece was also un-oiled. I wonder if the dye or oil is what made a difference in the stripes. By the way, the holser, mag pouch, and undyed piece all were within inches of each other on the butt strip of leather.
  15. You guys are both very close. The stitch line is just the way I layed it out. I layed it all out from the pattern i had. BUT........................................ The pattern is for a full size government model with 5" barrel. I have commander with a 4.25". I had thought about it before I layed it out, thinking to myself that I need to correct the pattern for the shorter gun. Then a couple of hours later I layed the pattern out on the leather, traced it............. I didn't realize what I had done (or rather didn't do) until I had already sewed it and was about to form it. I hate it. It just looks wrong to me. Guess I'll just have to make another. On a similar note, my middle son asked me "Why do you keep making all those holsters?" I told him the truth; "I'm trying to get one right."
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