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MrLentz

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About MrLentz

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  1. Hi, Anyone know what happened to proedgeburnishers.com ? I feel like I checked their site a few months ago and it was up and running, looks like things are not working anymore. I was hoping to get a few dremel burnishers from them, hope everything is ok!
  2. Interesting idea - it may not fit as good as a replica, but as long as the customer knows the difference I guess that would work.
  3. Oh great - you can private message me the photos of it and we can work out a sale. Thank you again!
  4. Hi Todd, Send over a photo or two of it and a measurement if you can. I can pass it along to the customer and have them help make the choice. Thanks!
  5. Hello, I have a customer looking to get a holster made for his Ruger sr1911 with a rail on the bottom. His words - it's a full size 1911 not the commander. I am not having much luck finding the Ruger model sr1911 on Knifekits.com or Bluegunstore.com and am wondering what another holster maker in this situation would do? I am not very familiar with the differences in manufacturers of the 1911 so I don't really know if a Springfield version would do or not. Or maybe there is a better option. Here's what customer support found for me at knifekits so far that looks similar: https://www.knifekits.com/vcom/bluegun-holster-molding-prop-for-springfield-operator-1911-5in-p-5204.html Thanks!
  6. Depending on how aged you need it to look, I found one method to work quite well if you want that really old worn out look. Boil a pot of water and pour it over the leather you need aged. Careful where you pour though! It's unorthodox I know - but it'll shrivel and crack the edges a bit for a much more aged look. I have also dipped leather in boiling water, but that is a bit extreme and basically destroys the leather with cracking.
  7. What's the difference then in how you make the Flat Back - flat backed so to speak? I had just made myself a 50/50 holster (for a dog leash not a gun just yet). And I immediately noticed the discomfort of it as the bulge pushes into your back. My next step was to figure out how to make a Flat Back, and go figure ... this thread popped up for exactly that. Any advice is much appreciated.
  8. Ah - nice, ok so it is more about the placement. Thanks for the tip!
  9. Hey - just curious where you got the checkered background tool and if you had to modify the edges to blend better?
  10. Hello, I am just learning how to make proper knife sheaths and I was wondering what styles of knives are the popular ones your customers/friends/etc typically need custom sheaths for? Or are they all across the board? I am not much of a knife guy so I figured someone on here may be able to point me in the right direction. Also - anyone know of some mid-level priced knife makers out there that I could order a variety of styles of knives from? I would like some well made ones that are worth keeping... but can't break the bank at the same time! Basically I am looking to collect an array of the popular styles to practice different types of sheaths for - I can do some problem solving in advance and learn a lot that way before offering my service. Thanks!
  11. I Haven't tried the dry canvas on it. Though while I did manage to scrape off all the goobers...I noticed that a few days later it had been pushing even more out. It is strange because I did properly dry everything. It's as if it is leaking goobers over time.
  12. Well after trying the watered down Aquilim 315, it is still very difficult to get the awl through. I also tried a very thin layer of Fiebings Leathercraft cement and heat gun dried it to a tacky state, then pressed together. That does not seem to be a problem for the awl at all. I would say the bond is about 1/2 as strong, but it should work for most projects. The Aquilim 315 is probably best used if you are easily able to avoid both the stitch line and the edge. The edge seems to create the goobers while trying to burnish etc..
  13. Thanks! Yeah - I just purchased a small 15 degree angle and 20 degree one to that can be rubber banded to the stone. At least I will have a guide now when starting each stroke. (before using the angle guide - I sharpened for about 45 minutes and still had the same results: sharp for about 24 inches of cutting...then not so much!). I will be trying the angle guides once they get here - but now my question is this - did the weaver master tools round knife come with a primary bevel off of the main body...then a micro secondary bevel? Hopefully I didn't screw the edge up too much by trying different angles! I am assuming I should just use the 15 degree angle for a good 30 minutes and that should be a strong enough edge (totaling 30 degrees included)?
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