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About Eirewolf

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Masks and eye patches
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    ... pretty much everything!

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  1. I know this is an older post, but I just had to say... WOW, Leonguaranipy, those are stunning pieces! Yours are gorgeous too, GirlFromScandinavia!
  2. Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I just moved into a new house, and I finally have a room all to myself to make into a studio. I'm trying to brainstorm ideas for how to hang my leather hides so that I can easily see them all (just the pre-dyed ones, not the natural veg-tan; I don't really need to see that all the time & will probably leave it rolled the way it came). I have some chrome-tanned, as well as some pre-dyed veg-tan double shoulders. Most are 5-oz or lighter weight. I have limited space, as the room is not very large (it used to be a kid's bedroom). I like JLSleather's idea of hanging them over large dowels. I did something similar in my old studio in the closet (but the closet in the new place is too small for that). I might be able to hang them from the ceiling -- but how do I know if the ceiling will support the weight? If not that, I will have to have the husband help me build some kind of rig -- but it's got to be compact so it doesn't overwhelm the room. If anyone has more ideas for how to maximize a small space and display my hides for easy use, I'd love to hear them! Thanks in advance.
  3. Eirewolf

    Rhino mask

    Your work blows my mind. Amazing!
  4. I'm fairly new to leatherwork myself -- only been doing it for 3.5 years. (Yes, I still consider myself a newbie as I'm having to learn things as I go.) But I hope I can be of some help. The 3 dye brands you mentioned are also the ones I am familiar with. I believe you are right that denatured alcohol is good for cutting Angelus dyes, and possibly Fiebings as well, though I'm not sure on that. I don't know anything about oxalic acid, but perhaps my reply here will bump your post to the top so someone with more experience will see it.
  5. Thank you! I used Dr. Jackson's leather conditioner, and mixed it with a little bit of the dye I was using. It didn't seem to mix very well, as it retained a lot of little lumps no matter how much I tried to mix the dye in. Next time I will try Bicks 4. That's what the guys at Springfield Leather use in some of their videos too.
  6. Dwight, thank you so much for the thoughtful reply. It makes sense that I might need to cut the dye and sealer, but dangit, I wish they would say so on the bottle! It might have saved me a lot of time. I have some denatured alcohol to mix with the Angelus dyes... What kind of thinner should I use for the Fiebings Pro Oil Dye? Should I still use the conditioner (and if so, when in the process)? Will that have any kind of negative effect on the sealer? Thanks again!
  7. Again, thank you for the reply... but I don't believe it is the color itself rubbing off. It appears to be the finish. As I explained, this happened with a blue cuff as well, so switching to vinegaroon is not the solution I need. What I need is a durable finish.
  8. Camano, thanks so much for the reply, but my main problem is the finish/sealer, not the color. I am getting a nice even black with the dye (and tinted conditioner), but the finish is rubbing off... and I definitely need some kind of finish to protect my customers from dye bleed. I need the finish for other colors too.
  9. I have a problem and am at my wits’ end, so I figured I’d come ask you intelligent and experienced people for advice. :-) I apologize if this is long-winded. I have designed a cuff bracelet that fits various wrist sizes because it is slotted rather than clasped. I made a prototype that I have worn for months and months to “test drive” it, and it’s holding up great and gets a lot of compliments. But now that I’m trying to make it in other colors to sell, black in particular is giving me trouble. (By the way, I am using 7-oz. natural veg-tanned leather from Wickett & Craig.) Mine is dyed Fiebing’s “LIght Brown” (which is actually a lovely mottled dark brown) sealed with full-strength Resolene, and it’s doing fine. I’ve had a couple since then crack beside one of the slots — that could be due to overcutting the slot and/or not conditioning the leather. So I’ve started using leather conditioner after dyeing, and also using a punch tool to cut the slots instead of a hole punch and utility knife, and I haven't seen the cracking problem again so far. So here is the current problem… The several black ones that I’ve made recently have not held up to a stress test — the finish appears to rub off at the contact points. (See the picture for an example.) I haven’t made many colors, but my brown one doesn’t do this. (Of course, it’s possible that it DOES do this but I just can’t tell because the color behaves differently.) I have a dark blue one that has a similar issue to the black (though not quite as bad). It didn’t get conditioner, so I doubt it’s the conditioner causing the problem. I have tried different dyes (Fiebing’s Pro Oil Dye, and Angelus Jet Black). I have tried Black Resolene (which has had the WORST results for this), as well as clear Resolene (both at full strength). I have tried with and without additional finish after the Resolene (Eco-Flo Satin Shene, or Fiebing’s Leather Balm with Atom Wax). I have tried PRAYER. :-) I have used up a lot of time and leather. I need a durable and flexible finish that will prevent dye bleed when the person wearing the bracelet sweats, and that will not rub off at contact points. I suspect this is possible, as belt-makers seem to do okay… What finish do they use (or is it a certain kind of pre-dyed leather)? Should I be cutting the Resolene with water 50/50 (as I have seen suggested elsewhere in the forums), and would it solve the problem? Any help will be greatly appreciated!
  10. Thank you! I have to say, the impressions are quite a bit easier than cuts too, and I prefer the way they look for certain things. I didn't want to carve the entire face, not only because it would take a long time, but also because I wanted some contrast, with certain details standing out more than the rest.
  11. Thank you everyone! mrdabeetle, I burnish the back of the mask after I case it but before I carve and shape it, to smooth down the roughness as much as possible. I don't dye or paint the back, except around the edges and the back of horns or any other part that may show. I seal the whole mask front and back with Acrylic Resolene after dyeing it, and I seal it again with Fiebing's Leather Sheen Acrylic Finisher (after painting it, if I paint). When I sell a mask, I include a strip of sticky-back felt so that my customers can customize the fit somewhat. I've only been doing this for about a year, so I don't know if I'm doing everything "right"... if ever someone has a suggestion for my improvement, I will be in your debt!
  12. Thank you Natalie! I used Metallic / Iridescent White Liquitex acrylic paint for that.
  13. Welcome to the forums! I'm a maskmaker myself (for about a year now, so still a newbie). I'm looking at a split from a hide I bought, and I would guess that it would wet-form similarly. However, I don't know that I would trust it for stamping and tooling; the surface is not nearly as smooth. It's an interesting idea, to use splits as a sort of prototype for wet-formed pieces, so as not to ruin good tooling leather. I might steal that idea.
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