bland

I kind of have a mixed bag of oblong punches Craft tool, Osborne, Weaver and some others I'm not sure where from. The Weaver Master Tools punches are my favorite they come clean, polished and sharp right out of the box. The Osborne punches are also very good and a little cheaper but don't have as fine as finish. The Craft tools cut but require a little sharpening and polishing but are also a little cheaper than the Osborne and Weaver. I think they all have their place.

There are a lot of makers that do just what you are talking about. There is some risk to it. I oil and use Skidmore's cream for the final finish.

Most of the time around sharp turns I use the hand wheel and go one stitch at a time.

Basket stamping is a little daunting. Sometimes it doesn't run exactly straight. I'm not sure how much you are doing on your saddle or how you are laying it out. If you are just doing the corners you can lay it out on a line. You can also run splits so you don't get so far off. Dale Moore taught me this technique and it worked out for me pretty well. I ran each section in two parts. It is one of my first saddles so it isn't perfect but it rides really good.

Probably too late but you shouldn't need to back saddle skirting to tool it. I'm guessing this was a question about your mule saddle.

https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/30-1549/100-mohair-cording/pr_43725 https://www.hitchingpostsupply.com/collections/mohair

There are several different factors or a combination of factors. What kind of temper does the leather have? Where on the hide was the leather cut? Is it belly, shoulder, butt, back..? Are you using too much pressure? Did you use an edge beveller? Was it too wet? Have you tried using some saddle soap? Gum Tragacanth, Tokenole or other slicking agents... My impression from the pictures is that the leather may be soft temper, not edged beveled and you are using too much pressure. I attached a thread from a long time ago. If you are having trouble with burnishing your edges it is a great guide. Check this thread from 2009.

Duane Watts makes a swivel knife that the blade swivels. Similar idea but it is for leather carving.

Looking for some quality flat lacing chisels for buck stitching a belt. I have a smaller set but.. I have checked all the usual suspects and they either don't have that size or they are out of stock.

Doug Krause in California makes horsehair macates . They sale his macates at https://www.ricottisaddle.com/. I don't know if he takes students or has books or videos. I'm sure there are some other makers in the California, Oregon, Nevada area of the US.

Weaver Leather caries them. https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/01144/1144-collar-fastener-set/pr_55080

I just saw this post. Did you get the help you needed? I'll just bump you post to the top again. What style are you looking to make? I know Dwight posted a buckaroo pattern on here a while back.

I have a Cobra Class 4 and a Juki 1508 NH. Both great machines but to tell you the truth I prefer to sew on the Cobra. I can sew with 207, 277 and 346 thread with a needle change and a little adjustment but if I try to go down to 138 on it it requires significant adjustments to keep the stiches consistent. The most beneficial attachment for me is the roller guide.

Saturate the foam but doesn't need to have liquid in the pan. Don't forget the top there is probably a couple spots there. The needle bar and presser foot bar probably have some felt around them that could use oil.

What Juki machine are you using? That would help. I have a 1508 NH and I use system 190. Some 1508 machines use 135 x 17.