bland

Saturate the foam but doesn't need to have liquid in the pan. Don't forget the top there is probably a couple spots there. The needle bar and presser foot bar probably have some felt around them that could use oil.

What Juki machine are you using? That would help. I have a 1508 NH and I use system 190. Some 1508 machines use 135 x 17.

I wanted to get it set up this weekend when I had some time off. I got it all set up it was pretty straight forward. Then my wife (she is a finder) found my instructions. Thanks Wiz!

I moved and packed my machine up several months ago and in the move I can't find the set-up instructions for my Cobra Class 4. I can probably figure it out but it would be helpful to have the sheet just in case. Thanks in advance

Very nice!

Very nice! What leather did you use?

Check this out from an older post.

What did you use for a resist? How long ago did you apply the antique? What antique did you use? Sometimes you can use the "resist" if you use Resolene or Tan Kote to clean some of it off won't pull it all off but it can help.

Looking at that knife, I wouldn't say it just looks like you know what you are doing. You know what you are doing. Looks like maybe two files a round file and triangle file?

Very nice!!! What did you do on the spine? Very cool!

I just received a suspended edge guide for my Juki 1508 NH 5 minutes before I saw your post. I ordered it on Amazon for $30. Quality looks pretty good. I'll let you know once I attach it an try it out later this afternoon.

You could do it either way single layer of heavy veg-tan or multiple. If you go with one layer you will want a stiff sole bend or skirting leather to make a good rigid belt. You will want to skive down your turn-back around your buckle. If you go with multiple layers you could run 1 layer short and just go up to the buckle and then your turn back would be half as thick. I haven't made any suede covered belts and have always just burnished the edges so I can't speak on edge treatment but edge paint should work. For me I would add at least one more stitch line for a two tongue buckle or two stitch lines for a single tongue buckle.

For me personally I would put a latigo horn wrap under the rubber.

Here is how Stohlmans' suggest dealing with a metal horn. Basically the same thing that Blue62 suggested with the rivets. It is best to remove the fork cover but it can be trimmed around the base of the horn and put a horn wrap on mulehide or latigo (clockwise for right handed roper). They will need to change out the wrap when it starts wearing out before it is worn out.

https://leathercraftersjournal.com/product/creating-western-floral-designs-bob-park/