bland

Stylistically you'll want them to compliment your yoke design and the style of chaps. So there can be a variety of sizes. Generally the size range fredk recommended is perfect.

In my opinion, I would carve then line. Carving and stamping requires a solid surface to get good impressions. Then add the complexity of carving a rounded object. A swell cover on a western saddle at least has a solid surface under the leather but you're carving at odd angles. I'm thinking with a holster it might be more tricky to keep the solid surface where you need it. I think the bond for gluing will be ok as it will inevitably slightly bigger than it needs to be when you get get the holster closed up. Just another opinion.

Top 1/3 of the back for strap goods, breast collars, rear cinch, guitar straps (could be toward the shoulder area of the back it will be a little more flexible). Lay out the projects you have planned for the side. Sounds like the taps depending on length may be your biggest item. Toward the butt of the back will be your firmest.

Do you have the Leather Crafter's Journal they came out of? They usually have a picture of a finished product. What I'm seeing on the fold back pattern looks like your buckle piece will be sandwiched between the face piece and the billet strap. Then a keeper will also be through the bag punch holes and is sandwiched between as well. After the billet goes through the ring it will go back through the buckle and the keeper. In the thread through the billet looks like it goes through the 3/4 inch holes but it doesn't show where the buckle will go. Is there another piece of the pattern? Here is a similar style from southtexastack.

What do you have planned for the rest of the side? I always liked to cut a set of Stirrup Leathers (top of the back toward the butt end 66" to 72" long) off first. Always good to have an extra set on hand. Then you can cut other straps needed (rear cinch, billets, belts...) This can include your breast collar. Do you have a sketch of what you want? Do you have a favorite to model one after. Here's a pretty simple design all straight cuts. I prefer a ring or d ring in the center. You can have a plate behind or just have the three straps coming off of it. Are you sewing or riveting? You'll need to skive some to make the turns around the rings. I can answer more questions you might have when they come up.

What type are you looking to make? Tripping, pulling or roping collar? Are you going to line it? Generally you want to cut strap type goods from towards the top 1/3 of the back. Sometimes however it is what you have left from other priority cuts. Any cut moderately firm skirting will work. Especially if you line it and stitch it.

I think I kinda understand why you're not all the way pleased. I think it is the edges. I find with some exotics they need to be inlaid to get the clean polished edges. You could try one with the croc inlaid on the reinforcement piece. Looks great though. I'd proudly carry it.

I think trying to re-work the holster you have will be a gamble. You might run yourself out of material to work with. The cut of the original pattern is not right for a cross-draw. You will find it unbalanced and uncomfortable to wear. Just my $.02.

bump

I like to start trying to blow all the dust out of all the crevices with an air compressor. I don't know how deep you want to go. Cleaning and oiling is an opportunity to check critical saddle parts for safety. I would take the rosettes and hangers off and the screw at base of the swell. Then you can lift the jockeys and inspect the riggings and skirt connectors (whether pockets or tuggs. I also like to at least pull the stirrup straps out far enough to check for damage. Also allows you to clean and oil them. There are some saddle cleaning videos on YouTube. Cary Schwartz, Don Gonzalez, Dennis Moreland and many others.

Looks pretty good for a start. Mostly what I see will be taken care of with practice controlling stamp depth and placement. 3 oz leather is difficult to work with especially just starting out. For that style of pattern you will probably want to upgrade your beveller to a steep one. There are a couple guys on Youtube that have free tool along videos for the style of carving you are working on. here are a couple names to search there are others also. Joe Meling, Don Gonzales and Jim Linnell are three that carve floral patterns. Like I said there are more out there and don't mean to slight anyone. They also have paid content. They also have some swivel knife exercises to get your cuts smooth which will also help your tooling. Hope it helps. Practice is the biggest key.

Barry King sharp curve edger? Smallest size is 1 however. Works good on slot punched holes. I don't usually do anything too thin.

I would oil, dye, paint, resist, antique then finish.

Not sure this is what you were referring to but here is one method of attaching the back belt.

That is a new URL but seems to have at least some of the patterns.