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About bland

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    Southeast Arizona
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  • Leatherwork Specialty
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    Saddle Making, Holsters, Tack, Wallets, Journals, satchels...

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  1. I do find it helpful to change my needle to a smaller size when using poly thread. You may still have to make some minor adjustments to the tension as well.
  2. I know this is an older thread but I would have the step-ins taper to the knee (not too tight) and then flare a little at the calf and straight straight down from there. Kind of like in this picture I found here. Patterns for Chaps, Chinks and Armitas : Sew Your Own : Equine Web Design
  3. Are you tooling the yokes and back=belt? For me I like a tooled yoke in the 5oz to max 8oz range or about 2mm to 3mm. When you sew them to the body it will make them in the 3.5 to 4.5 mm. I don't want them to be too stiff as it makes them a little uncomfortable. For the back belt I would line it and be up in the 10 to 12oz range or 4mm to 5mm. I also like them to come apart in the event I get hung up so the front belt is single ply 2mm to 3mm. Some people like them heavier so... As far as color I would go with a light oil finish and antique if you like.
  4. Take a saddlers' awl/spike and punch a hole in the center of the rivet and pull it apart. Easiest way with least damage to the project.
  5. bland

    Christmas Chinks

    Thanks to all. Big smiles Christmas morning. Third set now completed not for Christmas.
  6. Last minute Christmas order for a couple young cowboys. Hopefully they get there in time. Merry Christmas.
  7. I'll go with repair. Looks like some of the original parts may have been used (buckles). Looks great.
  8. I think it looks great even better than the original.
  9. Cutting all depends on the projects you have planned for the hide. There are numerous ways to cut the hide. For belts and straps goods the higher in the back at the butt end to toward the shoulder is best in my opinion. Depending on the length of your straps or belts you can measure up the butt end to the desired length and cut it to length all the way across leaving the but end and shoulder end. Or you can cut the bend (butt to shoulder minus the belly) again to your measurements. Leaving you with the shoulder and belly attached. Or trim off the belly and leave the top. The belly and neck are good for molded projects. If you are trying to stay away from the brands you can take that into consideration as well. Or you can incorporate them into your project. When working with brands you need to know the leather is generally weaker in that area and doesn't stretch or form well. Anyway, there are many ways of cutting your leather for the projects you have in mind. Have Fun!
  10. I think it looks great here are a couple things you might want to look at. To my eye I think you could drop/extend your front jockeys lower. Follow the contour of your front skirt rounded off to an imaginary line running under your seat jockey and meet up with your back jockeys. Another thing is to have covered stirrups or at least leather treads. I'm not a big fan of the breast collar dee on the hangers, although I have put them on a couple, I've never had one fail but I'm not working in them every day. Anyway, I think it looks great and asking for ideas and critiques can only make you better.
  11. Sounds like you got into a bad piece of leather. Don't know what or if there is tooling but from what you described it sounds pretty far gone. If it were me, I would throw that one in the give away (Goodwill) pile and start again. No sense losing a customer over bad leather. You can push one and get it finished in a day, you're a pro.
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