Rawhide

No it doesn't stretch the leather much. you're not going to put a lot of water on, just enough to dampen the surface. you also don't need to put a lot of pressure on the leather to make the fibers lay down, you're after friction and heat. Not sure about the grey blue color issue tho. maybe there's some rub off from a dye? marlon

I also use the two prong needles, however, I "pre-punch" the holes with a sharp scratch awl. this does two things: 1. It creates a perfect hole that won't rip as quickly out of the leather. 2. It prevents you from breaking the prongs on the needles which is very easy to do.

I'll put my vote in for barry kings...I really think they are easier to control than Ron's, and are less expensive than Ron's. I do like Ron's tools as well, but i'd choose Barry's first.

you might try angelus dyes...they seem to be more colorfast than even fiebings, and much more concentrated...I rarely use fiebings dyes anymore...

Actually the forum director Johanna is allergic to leather if I recall correctly. I'm not sure if she developed the reaction or if it seemed to just always be...She may be able to offer some help.

if you want to keep using the one you have, don't use glue to set the blade, use epoxy. and be sure to rough up the end good that's going into the wood. I would even try making some serrations on that end. marlon.

where you cut it, be sure you don't have any glue in the area the pen/pencil will clip into. the problem may be that the checkbook cover may be too thin. Here are a couple of pictures of a notebook cover i made...it has a hole where the pen clip goes, and there is an area about 1 in below the hole that has no glue between the liner and the main body.

A size 6 or 7 would be most universal... most adjustable sets come with a 5,6,7 and sometimes 8.

use nitrile or latex gloves...the gloves will give you an added grip on the needles, without reducing your speed to grab a pair of pliers for every pull.

thanks everyone...I had a lot of fun making it!

Notebook that was created in Chan Geer's class at Elktrack Studios in Venus, TX.

people do use it for that purpose, but it's not the intent. I'd sure like to see them punch it through the edges of a briefcase or some other thick leather!

Just sandwich the nylon piece between two pieces of leather. that way you get the tensile strength of the nylon and the asthetics of the leather...

put a diamond awl blade in a sewing machine, and use it to punch the stitch holes..

Bruce, have you written anything on the chase style splitters? I haven't had any problems, but i think it would be nice to have some semi formal instructions of how to operate and maintain one. Thanks, Marlon

i would like them as well please send to my email. thanks, marlon

Thanks for the kind words Bill. I still believe I have quite a long way to go though. My ultimate goal is to be with the likes of George Hurst, Jim Linnell, Peter Main, Bob Park, and Jim Jackson. One day Bill, one day.....

I've done that before, but I wanted the really hard contrast. I know what I did that caused the bleeding...I forgot a step before dying. My edges are a variation of Bob parks method and quite a process. In a nut shell, I edge them, sand them with 400-600 grit sand paper. Dye the edge with a burnt wool dauber, then moisten the edge, rub the edge with glycerine soap, and burnish with cordura or canvas. buff with white t-shirt, and the seal them with 2 parts leather balm with atom wax, 1 part resolene.

George Hurst had some at a recent class, and I've seen them. they look good, but if i'm going to pay $30 for a tool, i'm calling Barry King. JMHO.

Think I found the answer to the special vs. jet black question. The special is described as deeper penetrating. Kind of like Feibings oil dye. From the Angelus website: PRO SERIES LEATHER DYE NO. 505 & SPECIAL DYE BLACK NO. 507 505 and 507 are similar to Angelus Leather Dye Series 500. 505 and 507 have additional ingredients that allow the dye to penetrate hard and/or difficult leathers. Normally for professional use only.

Thanks Pete, That oval flower center is one from the old hidecrafters line up. I beleive that double k leather now owns the dies and tools from hidecrafters. I think the number is PJ018. I'm not sure if it is still carried anymore, but you may be able to find it somewhere. @ BobBlea, thanks Bob. I may get around to it this weekend. I've been pretty busy for the last 3 years (not a typo). So leather has taken a back seat, but I'm trying to get into a regimen that will allow some articles to come about.

Tina, It's really not that hard...If I can get some time. I'll do a quick tutorial on running that basket weave around a curve like that. Sam, I don't. Jim was out following elk tracks when we took this class, and I think he and George were going to set up more classes when Jim got back. He was due back yesterday (I think), so stay tuned. If I get any info, I'll send it to you.

bump this post, I'd like to know the difference too!

@OdinUK, I saw Paul at the Wichita Falls Boot and Saddle Maker's show, earlier in October. @Horrrk, Yes, this was a one day tooling. (4-5 hours). The swivel knife is made by Paul Zalesak of www.leatherwranglers.com the blade is not much thinner than a tandy blade, but the material of it was very well researched and stays sharp probably 5 times longer than an average blade. Really helps to prevent you from having to strop so much. (As you can tell, I love this knife.) Not affiliated with Paul, but I do know him and he makes great tools. @ferg, the background is done that way on purpose, but there are some errors that could be corrected (some strikes are harder/lighter than others). It is done with a bargrounder that shows as small holes that are directional. (you probably know this, but for the uninitiated....) the traditional backgrounder will mat and if done properly, will blend the background as you prefer. Thanks to all the great comments. Marlon.

It's been my experience that neatsfoot oil should be applied very lightly, in multiple applications. It usually takes me a couple of days to oil an article. I use clipped sheeps wool to apply it. It will soak in (usually overnight). and if applied correctly, will seem as though none was applied (this may be what you're experiencing), aside from a very slight darkening.