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About arashikage

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    Northeast Ohio

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Shoe repair, wallets, purses, belts
  • Interested in learning about
    cordwaining, bootmaking, the meaning of life

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  1. arashikage


    There is a section in the forums titled "Getting Started" which is a good place to begin depending on what you're planning to get into. Here is a recent discussion on the same thing. There's links to the different recommended sets too. This should help.
  2. arashikage

    Apple Watch Lugs

    I'm looking for Apple Watch lugs that people like. There are a bunch of companies selling them on Amazon but I'm looking for anyone who has a good experience with a specific brand or retailer. I'm looking for 40mm and the original style (the bar screws into the lug). The only brand that I could find mentioned in the forums was Stouch but they seem to be no longer available.
  3. arashikage

    Contact Adhesives

    Depending on the brand of cement, they may have their own thinner. It's best practice to use the same brand of thinner as cement, Barge with Barge or Master with Master, ect. But they all tend to work. If you know you're not going to be using it for an extended period you can thin it down quite a bit and just leave it.
  4. arashikage

    I found this Simco saddle at the curb

    Man that's way better than the free Brother sewing machine I found on the curb!
  5. arashikage

    machine - belt or bench sander edges?

    I have a couple different machines I use depending on what I'm doing. My main machine is a naumkeag (similar 1st pic but a standalone) with 200+ grit. I also use a belt/disc sander from Harbor Freight (like 2nd pic) for rapid removal of material. I would use it more if I got finer belts/disc for it. They work fine for sanding edges though. It's real easy to mess up an edge with a machine. So it depends on what you're working on and how fine of grit you're using. But if you take it slow it's fine. If the grit is too course it will cause your edge to become "hairy" so you actually have more work to do than had you done it by hand.
  6. arashikage

    Fenda/Sutton 6" splitter blade shape

    This does have 2 rollers. The top one is smooth to not cause damage and the bottom is grooved to serve as a feed roller. I don't know how thin these were ever meant to split. Most splitters like this, the Landis 30 included, were built for sole splitting. So you would be using thick stiff leather which is easier to split. Landis got back to me sooner than I expected. They said it is in fact a double convex blade from the factory. They also have replacement blades $430. Not sure if that's US or CAD. This means I'm going to have to really dial in the alignment of the blade after I sharpen it.
  7. I know this is a long shot. I'm trying to determine the factory blade shape of a splitter. I recently acquired a 6" hand crank splitter. The blade on it appears to be convex on both sides, like a knife, as opposed to the chisel type blade of a Landis 30. I'm trying to figure out if this was the original blade or if somebody tried to "improve" it by grinding both sides. The badging on it says Sutton but it looks like it might not be original. It matches in all other ways to a Fenda splitter. I can't find anything about them other than there is a German company still selling them and replacement blades but there are no pics or description. I can't find any documentation on this machine either. I have an email into Landis International whose current splitter looks more like a Fenda than the old Landis 30. I've searched the forum and the 2 or 3 people on here that have mentioned Fenda haven't been on in a year or more. The pic is not mine but just to show what a Fenda looks like.
  8. arashikage

    Dopp Kits

    I never knew either but according to the interwebs: "The name derives from the early 20th century leather craftsman Charles Doppelt, whose company designed the case in 1926."
  9. arashikage

    Mold or Wax

    For the most part mold shouldn't be a problem. It depends on where you setup shop. Currently I'm working in an unfinished basement that has a dehumidifier running. I have to keep an eye on things because it still gets damp in some parts of the basement though. I've only had a few spots show up. I think it was just on a couple half hides of patent leather. It's been wet for months in Ohio so the dehumidifier couldn't keep up. But if you're working in a normal part of your house, i.e. an office or bedroom, you won't have to worry about.
  10. arashikage

    Mold or Wax

    Like you & bikermutt said, it's most likely the wax coming up with age and lack of use. If you take a soft rag or some buffing material, you can just rub it back in. I have some pieces of horse leather that do this if I let them sit too long.
  11. I have this one. It's more of an inspiration than instruction book. Handmade Shoes for Menászló-Vass/dp/3848003686 I've heard good things about these books. Not sure if they're what you're looking for. The Cowboy Boot Book (Tyler Beard has a few books of cowboy boots) Dictionary of Leather Working (Lots of pictures of leather working tools)
  12. You're correct. The sanding portion of the finisher users sanding belts. But the exposed part is usually just where the contact wheel is. You don't get the exposed belt and flexibility like you would on a belt grinder. In theory you could swap pulleys. Like my motto when I ran sound, "with enough adapters, I can make anything work!" I think you can even get the stitched fabric wheels that you load buffing compound on for most finishers.
  13. Here's an old post of somebody doing something very similar. It can definitely be done. The hardest part may be determining the best angle of the blade.
  14. Unfortunately shoe equipment is some of the hardest stuff to get rid of. It's only worth what somebody is willing to give you, which is usually a lot less than what it should be worth. I have seen these sell often at auctions for less than $50. You definitely have the right idea about going to your local shoe shops to see if they have a need or a lead. But I wouldn't expect to get much out of it. Don't get me wrong, this thing would be super useful for any leather worker that uses polish. Your ebay example is going to be sitting on that for a long time. They're asking the same price of a completely refurbished machine. Are you meaning for polishing blades? If so, most likely because the RPMs on this machine are too slow to be very effective on metal removal. They're a lot slower than a bench grinder.
  15. arashikage

    Leather strander

    I agree that it looks 3d printed. It looks like a slimmed down version of this type of skiver that uses safety razor blades.