DavidL
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Posts posted by DavidL
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From that manager there will always be a trust issue, guaranteed. If they were having a bad day and was acting uncharacteristic then it was unlucky situation.
For what it is worth I personally would of paid the 21 dollars out right without them asking, even if they insist you keeping it. Just my opinion.
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8 SPI (532) I find is a good general length for anything.
7 (432) would be good for large bags.
9 -11 (532-632) for watches or wallets.
I think saddles are stitched with 10+ SPI on thick leather.
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David -- Nigel uses the stitching chisels and approves of them and I would not think they are a "beginner" tool because of that.
Watched the video you are referring to. A stainless iron was shown, the black tandy iron was what I was talking about.
For a functional tool the tandy iron looks like it would work, the iron in nigels review had a tooth knocked off that doesnt inspire confidence. Dont see the tandy version being better than the cheaper Japanese stitching chisel. It does look more like a dixon or vb than not.
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So what do you think the tandy chisel qualifys as? The holes are pretty big IMO, easy to sew buut
They qualify as beginner tool.
I would assume professional leather workers tune their vb pricking irons like their awl to their desired size. You would easily ruin the iron if you dont know what your doing.
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Judgebc my dad was the same way, keep an item as long as you can.
Tinkertailor I get what you are saying. You dont have to spend a lot for otherwise common tools like hammers and dividers, they do the job well.
Theres is also nothing wrong with having a functional tool or precise tool like a japanese leather knife, it depends on what you want personally. Stores are after your cash and dont some mind selling you low quality tools. Leathercrafttools.com, Springfieldleather.com I find are fair companies for functional tools, tandy is not. They even took the website name leathercrafttool.com to reroute to tandy. The way they conduct business is predatorial in a market that has few to none brick and mortar competitors.
After I was into the craft I decided to buy good tools (functional, precise, beautiful or a combination) to last my lifetime because that is how long I plan to be working with leather. There is something about buying nicer tools that make you want to create better quality goods, thats my opinion. Something about pure functional heavy duty tools that inspire confidence. Buy tools made for a professional so that you have something to aim for. Beginner tools in my opinion after you are intermediate inspire mediocrity.
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First thing I purchased was from Tandy. It has nothing to do with where I am in the craft or where I am not.
As a store to sell overpriced tools that is useless the moment they are bought is the issue. They are robbing unwitting customers. Even if they sell average price leather from time to time, dont support this behaviour.
Maybe im wrong, the ultimate tool set is not bad.. $900 dollars for made in china tools http://www.tandyleather.ca/en/product/ultimate-leathercraft-set
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I like a good looking tool, nothing wrong about that.
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I wouldnt get anything from tandy. I bought a tandy handstitching kit for 100 dollars by a recommendation from the tandy storeowner, if Id known what I known now I would of walked out the door. Still annoys me a little.
There is two sides to learning the skill, knowledge and hand - eye cordination.
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Rubbing alcohol needs to be replaced by acetone. The finish needs to be skimmed off with finger nail or carefully with a tool. Sanding should not be done with sandpaper probably not a good idea for steel wool. With acrylics you paint light color then the darker over, dyeing may need something similar.
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For cutting out templates out of metal which is prefered? Anyone familiar with the cost of CNC or laser, which is more economical?
Recommendations to any companies that offer decent value?
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The glue does both. The stitching is placed close (to the edge) to prevent separation.
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I've also wondered this. I would try stitching one end flush. Stitch all the way around both bottom corners until you are nearly all the way done, 2 or 3 cm left, mark the end with a 90 degree ruler.
It is common for bags to be made with alignment notches or alignment marks (on the leather or leather edge). 3 marks per corner, 1 center mark at the middle of bottom piece, 1 centering mark for each side . The alignment marks make sure that the leather will lay evenly allowing a perfect match.
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Nice. Did you redo the pull string?
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leathergoods maufacture by g c moseley out of print
theleatherconnection.com
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From my brief experimentation I would say yes. Also the more acute/sharp the angle of the joined edge is will create this problem.
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Use piping so that does not show.
Too thick,too loose of a stitch and too stiff leather will do that.
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Working with bag w/ turned seam and piping it wouldnt be necessary to do this. Generally done with vegetable tan as it can hold shape with just water and folding.
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Great bag, I like the handle. You asked for suggestions I have a few that I saw.
The gusset of the bag when done the most optimal way is for the gusset to be thinner than the panels. In the 2 ounce to 3 ounce w/ lining, which requires an additional thinner hide that matches the color of the thicker leather.
I have seen the gusset skived at the edges before, it is not the traditional way. The reasoning for thinner gusset is because the front panel of your bag plus the back panel should be flat. The bulge of the gusset seam creates is equally distributed to the gusset and front panel on a bag with equal thickness gusset and panel. A lighter gusset like a 2.5 ounce will give way to the thicker 6 ounce + panel. The bulge will end up in the gusset. The gusset can also be pre folded with a ruler a cm or so just before the edge .
Construction of the gusset usually is an accordian or is like a 3 piece construction.
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To prevent damage in shipment, a round cardboard roll or rolled cardboard extending past the edges of leather could be use. I remember reading a shipment from a supplier that was damaged. The round roll may not be the answer but I would be more willing to do business with a reseller if they do try to prevent these things as.
The leather looks like another good choice similar to horween's.
If your looking for opinions the Japanese leather from leathercraftgoods.com would be a good addition. It had a very beautiful pale tan and felt like a retan. On the opposite side I would be interest in a reddish tanned european veg tan. If the price is fair and quality is consistent that would be the two deal breakers.
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Hammer or bone folding may work. The bag opening reminds me of a backpack opening.
David I doubt that it's due to the piping being close to the zipper. It looks like you have some tension that could have been caused by your gusset or the stitching of that.
I meant to say the width of the top piece is too short so there isnt enough material to fold over?
The thing to focus on is that the inside edge is facing sideways not downwards. If the edge is skived more and especially at the corner this could be the remedy?
Shorten the top gusset length (is that what it is called?) preventing there to be too much leather length, not too short either where it is distorts? widen the pattern so that there is more material?
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http://theleatherconnection.com/tlc_members_cloud_page.htm
If you need help after purchasing the manual you can email Francis the craftsman that wrote it. It is a online course so emails are expected. He will only respond to questions for the manual that you buy.
Manual number 4 is perfect for bags and briefcase handles. It will not refer in manual number 4 to accordian gussets or piped seams(fairly simple). It is advanced level material.
Leather craft manufacture written by G.C Moseley.
I own a copy. Again advanced level material that I will be reading in the future because the knowledge not sink in at my skill level.
Valerie Michael's book is intermediate and bridges the gap into professional leatherworking.
All 3 books are fundamental knowledge building books. They are not design books, there are fair amount of those type of books around.
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Have you tried to go back in with the stitching chisel from the other side? You can see the marks to line it up, and wont miss the calf, which was why you punched from the other side in the first place. This should neaten up the holes significantly.
That would create a hole going both ways in the back.
Im curious if the irons are meant to go all the way through. They are meant to pierce farther than pricking irons. Are the stitching diamonds recomemended to go clean through the leather?
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Is the gusset made too large? No stiffener? Leather too thick?
Or can piping not be placed near the zipper because that thickness at the edge doesnt allow it to fold over? This sounds most plausible. Thoughts?
Springfield Leather, Free Shipping And Great Service
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JLS - Great service, prices are well under other companies. They have a deal with UPS to not ding Canadians with brokerage fee. I have noticed they have sold C grade leather as A grade leather. They do ship out a new hide without question everything paid.
Springfield is playing the numbers game. Sending out c grade hides as B grade. B grade as A grade.