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About cjartist

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    Western New York

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  1. You have peaked my curiosity as well. I am pretty rough on work gloves and would love to try and make a pair that would last. I went to Google books to see if I could find the book you have. Sometimes I get lucky and find something there for free. I think this may be the same one you have available as an eBook for $6. Practical Glove Making
  2. It is nice to see how far you have taken this. What a beautiful knife you have there now. Congrats! Have you gotten in the market of making them for others yet?
  3. I sold both of these for $60 a piece. Single layer, no stitching, no swivels. Just the Chicago screws and a sewn leather keeper. Just keep in mind that you need a 44" strip of leather, so it would not be cost effective to make them out of Horween or one of the other top dollar sides.
  4. I have used plenty of EcoFlo dye and have never had a problem. I think it must be the atom wax. I've never used that. After you dye, apply a coat of resolone or super (or satin) sheen and the dye should not come off. I also use wool daubers with no problem. I have mostly been using Fiebings dye for the past year or two because I got a ton of it for free. But i do still use Eco when I want something different. Never have I had the problems that others complain about. i really do think it must be the atom wax. It makes me wonder why they would ever recommend it as a finish.
  5. Very nice. I have been using the cheap Tandy pony myself. It is very limited due to the bolt clamp setup running right through the middle. I too cannot wait to see your progress with this.
  6. Yes, great job. I wouldn't even know how to begin with hair on hide. Looks great.
  7. Very nice. I hope you sell them all and then can stock up to make more! I'm curious about the closure system you are using. I see the round ring but can't figure out how it is set up. Does the strap fold back on itself?
  8. Hi. Looks like you have a great backdrop for photos. Very nice.
  9. cjartist

    My 4th Project

    I think your coloring is fine. With the antiquing, if you want a smoother appearance, you have to just work quick and keep it wet. Not easy to do on a big piece. For being at this point for only 4 or 5 months, I'd say you are doing great! Even so, you asked for serious critiques, so here is what stands out to me. You swivel knife cuts are a bit choppy on the long curves. You can see it on the paisleys. Before you start to carve, it helps to do a bit of a warm up on some scrap leather. Just practice a few small circles and curves before you start. It really does help.
  10. There's not a whole lot you can do with pieces that small. Sometimes I will use them to test shades of dye, then they hut the trash. What could you do with them? Maybe key fobs, or rings.
  11. Never seen those. Try Buckle Guy dot com. You might be able to find something similar to replace them with.
  12. As far as I know, you cannot add a walking foot to a machine that is not built for it. You can however sew leather on an old industrial machine. I have a Singer 241 that I have outfitted to sew lightweight leather using a size 21 leather point needle and 90 weight nylon thread. The machine cost me $150 from a Craigslist ad. My problem with the machine is I can't control it very well. I reduced the gear size and slowed it down a bit, but it really needs a servo motor if I want to use it properly.
  13. Cool. That's awesome and you don't have to worry about it falling off.
  14. Dye needs to go before the antique as the antique sits on top of the leather while the leather will absorb dye. As far as mixing the two before application, I have not tried it. I would suggest experimenting with the two until you get the best effect. I would definitely experiment before applying it to an expensive or labor intensive piece. Let us know how it works for you and what you decide upon.
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