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About JakeDiebolt

  • Rank
  • Birthday 06/08/1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Gore Bay, Ontario
  • Interests
    Archery, bowhunting, history, writing, leatherwork

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    None yet
  • Interested in learning about
    Sheathes, Gun leather (long guns), Medieval Shoes, SCA Leatherwork
  1. Hey amuckart! I did settle on using about the same thickness of leather as you use - mostly from reading your blog, honestly. 5-6 mm seems really thick, like it would be hard to turn. Is that for later turn-welted or welted shoes, or do you use it for regular turn shoes too?
  2. Hello all, I'm looking for some guidance here. I'm planning on making my first set of turnshoes and I'm having trouble finding what leather thickness to use. The more technical texts (Shoes and Pattens, Anglo-Scandinavian Leatherworking in York), talk about types of leather but not thicknesses. Tutorials online contradict each other - some say to use 5/6oz leather, at least one says that anything thicker than 4 oz will always split when you turn them. Given that the leather species used for uppers in medieval contexts was often calf, sheep, or goat, it seems like the leather would be quite thin - maybe2- 3 oz. But how on earth could you do a butt stitch or tunnel stitch on such thin leather(like for heel stiffeners and closing seams). So, for those of you in the know - what thickness have you used for uppers? Has anyone had any luck doing closing seams on really tin leather?
  3. Those look really cool! What thickness of leather is the bracer leather?
  4. Are we talking the town deer or the country deer? The ones that live around Gore Bay (where I live) seem to be doing fine raiding bird feeders and the like. The country deer are doing poorly. Probably a poor generation of fawns this spring. There's been some feeding and trail breaking to open up food supplies but no big feeding program that I'm aware of. We'll have to wait and see what all comes out, but overall its not looking good.
  5. Yeah, I think the way to go is to take a small sliver of leather, kind of a like a piece of thick leather lace, wet a strip of leather, and wrap it tightly around that "core". Adding a little food-safe glue to the core and at the end of the wrapped strip would probably be all that would be needed. Probably best to skive the end of the wrap down too. I will try this out and see how it goes. Worst case scenario is that I've screwed up some scrap leather.
  6. Thanks for the tips! I've tried the wet and wrap method and it seems to work OK. There is a tiny gap near the middle that you can just barely see through if you hold it up to the light.. I plan on dipping the entire thing in hot wax to seal it, so perhaps that small gap won't matter in the end.
  7. Anyone have any idea how to make a stopper out of rolled leather? I could swear I've seen some on some leather bottles. But how is it held together? Just simple glue? I've been looking all over a for a how to on this. It seems pretty simple, but when I've attempted it on some scraps it hasn't worked out. I can never get it to wrap tightly enough.
  8. The only real trick to double gussets is keeping everything lined up. I've found it to be tough going around the curves. I've sometimes pre-awled the holes going around the corner just to make sure it works, but it takes quite a bit longer. YMMV. I don't glue before hand, so that may change things.
  9. I've seen people posting on the forum about using fishing line instead of nylon bristles or boar bristles for sewing (especially shoemaking). Some questions: What kind/weight of fishing line? How do you 'split' them (if at all?)? Can it be reused afterwards or is it just discarded? Any help is much appreciated!
  10. I haven't started a project with this kind of stitch yet, but there are couple I'm interested in doing so I'm trying to get a feel for the technique. This would be for something like stitching a cylinder as shown in the Stohlman hand sewing book under sewing with curved needles. There are apparently some stitching lines in shoes that require it as well (esp historical reproduction shoes, which I may get into). Below is a link to an image of the type of stitching I'm talking about. I'm pretty sure leather thickness would be in the 5-8 oz range. http://home.earthlin...9/butt-down.jpg The baseball stitch you posted would work as well, I think. From the stohlman manual it seems that is best done with a glover's needle? Would that be your experience as well?
  11. They are in line with each other, edge to edge.
  12. Hello awl Does anyone have any tips on how to do a butt-stitch with only a straight awl blade and needles? I know that most people use a curved awl blade but the only ones I can get are from Tandy Leather and I have found their awl blades to be sub-par at best. (Yes, I can get them sharp enough to work, but they don't seem to hold an edge worth a darn and the last ones took hours of work to get them sharp enough). I have a Bob Douglas awl blade and haft and I am supremely happy with them. I hope that they can somehow be used for this method. Any tips, tutorials or videos would be very helpful!
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