
cord1974
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About cord1974
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- Birthday January 30
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Florida
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Steel Belt Liners
cord1974 replied to 327fed's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
I've always said "bonded" leather is nothing more than a leather version of presswood. It doesn't even rise to the level of OSB. -
cord1974 started following Glueing large areas?, Steel Belt Liners, 20 year old products? and and 5 others
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Steel Belt Liners
cord1974 replied to 327fed's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
About 25 years ago, back when I was shooting competition heavily, I made a steel lined belt. 2 ply 8/9 oz 1 3/4" Ranger style belt with a thin strip of steel centered. The billets were sewn on the outer strip to avoid the need to punch through the steel. But we did do a double stitch line on the belt. It worked well for several years of daily wear and weekly matches. Eventually I got tired of the stiffness and took the steel band out. I unstitched on edge, pulled the steel with pliers and sewed the edge back up by hand. The belt is still in my closet. Unfortunately I'm not as thin as I was back then. -
20 year old products?
cord1974 replied to Bryan's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
With black you really have to buff it well. Start with a soft cloth or wool. Buff it. Buff it again. The buff it some more. When you think you're done, take a soft paper towel and buff it. If any dye pigment comes off, start over. After buffing seal with your sealant of choice. -
I've been noticing Tandy is carrying less and less of a selection in Pro Dye in quart bottles. I've been to two larger stores (Jacksonville FL and Tampa FL in the last several weeks) and only found a few shades of brown available. I would guess they're phasing out a lot of the Fiebings dyes in favor of their Eco dyes.
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Natural Colored Letters on Dyed Dark Leather
cord1974 replied to vthokie7227's topic in How Do I Do That?
I recently did a few belts this way. After stamping I resisted using Wyosheen. After that dried I mixed a bit of dye with the Wyosheen (I read about that trick in one of Stohlman's books) and carefully used a small paint brush to go around each letter. After I'd gotten enough distance from the letters I dyed as usual. -
Tandy Neat Lac
cord1974 replied to cord1974's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
That was my thought as well. I do like Resolene. And I'll end up using both eventually. Between Leather Balm, Resolene, Gan Kote, "Neat Lax" and Wyosheen I have all my finishing needs covered. -
I haven't ordered from him yet but I've read nothing but great reviews about him and his business.
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Tandy Neat Lac
cord1974 replied to cord1974's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
Edit: Springfield says Clear Lac has been discontinued. Ordered through Barry King! -
Tandy Neat Lac
cord1974 replied to cord1974's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
Thanks! -
Tandy Neat Lac
cord1974 replied to cord1974's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
I'm on Springfield's page now and can't seem to find it. Any suggestions? -
Tandy Neat Lac
cord1974 replied to cord1974's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
I know Springfield has the "old faithful". I guess I need to go ahead and order some. I was just very disappointed. -
I was in a Tandy store a month or so ago. Hadn't been in about a year. I got all excited because they had brought back "Neat Lac". Has anyone else used this yet? Because unless I'm losing my marbles I don't think this is the same as the old Neat Lac they used to carry. Old Neat Lac was thicker and had a much different smell. The new product is thin like Resolene and behaves and smells very similar. Anyway, just wanted to see if anyone has had a similar experience.
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Sorry to drag a thread back from the dead but... If I'm doing something that will be worn I generally don't dye the flesh side. I do coat it with a finish though. My personal method: tool or stamp then one light coat of neatsfoot. Dry at least overnight. Sometimes as little as 8 or up to 16 hours. Then a second coat if antiquing. If not then dye. That again dries at least 8 hours then buffed and coated.
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Glueing large areas?
cord1974 replied to tH3dOuG's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
Used it before to glue holsters. Great for a lot of stuff.