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Posts posted by cord1974

  1. About 25 years ago, back when I was shooting competition heavily, I made a steel lined belt.

    2 ply 8/9 oz  1 3/4" Ranger style belt with a thin strip of steel centered. The billets were sewn on the outer strip to avoid the need to punch through the steel. But we did do a double stitch line on the belt.

    It worked well for several years of daily wear and weekly matches. 

    Eventually I got tired of the stiffness and took the steel band out.  I unstitched on edge, pulled the steel with pliers and sewed the edge back up by hand.

    The belt is still in my closet. Unfortunately I'm not as thin as I was back then.

  2. On 4/11/2021 at 7:35 PM, JamesCB said:

    I have made a leather holster for my S&W .38.  Dyed it black and buffed with shoe polish. The black comes off on my hands. What can I finish it with ?  :whistle:

    With black you really have to buff it well.

    Start with a soft cloth or wool. Buff it. Buff it again. The buff it some more. When you think you're done, take a soft paper towel and buff it. If any dye pigment comes off, start over.

    After buffing seal with your sealant of choice.

  3. I've been noticing Tandy is carrying less and less of a selection in Pro Dye in quart bottles. 

    I've been to two larger stores (Jacksonville FL and Tampa FL in the last several weeks) and only found a few shades of brown available.

    I would guess they're phasing out a lot of the Fiebings dyes in favor of their Eco dyes.

  4. I was in a Tandy store a month or so ago. Hadn't been in about a year.

    I got all excited because they had brought back "Neat Lac".  Has anyone else used this yet?

    Because unless I'm losing my marbles I don't think this is the same as the old Neat Lac they used to carry.

    Old Neat Lac was thicker and had a much different smell. The new product is thin like Resolene and behaves and smells very similar.

    Anyway, just wanted to see if anyone has had a similar experience.


  5. Sorry to drag a thread back from the dead but...

    If I'm doing something that will be worn I generally don't dye the flesh side. I do coat it with a finish though. 

    My personal method: tool or stamp then one light coat of neatsfoot. Dry at least overnight. Sometimes as little as 8 or up to 16 hours. Then a second coat if antiquing. If not then dye. 

    That again dries at least 8 hours then buffed and coated.

  6. On 12/15/2017 at 10:44 PM, Mjolnir said:

    have you ever cut your own hair? I don't recommend it. When things go awry you think to yourself, 'maybe if I just shave a little to the left'. Next thing you are bald. if you think you can pull of bald, ie scrap your nice work. keep shaving. A maker will see every flaw in his own creations magnified a thousand times. A True Persian rug always has one knot tied wrong. 

    I think your wife will love it. nicely done.


    I go through this with every single piece I make.

    Something, anything, makes me think, "it's ruined". Yet, when the person it's made for receives it they never see the flaws I see.

    Someone told me that's being a true artist, always striving to make the next piece better than the last.

  7. On 8/3/2011 at 2:34 AM, Ladykahu said:

    Are there different base types (oil vs water) to the buffing compounds? or could it just have been his block was to old and had dried to much to rub off?


    What I do for any strip is to take a bar of green compound and scrape off flakes into a cup.

    Then I grind them as fine as possible. Add a bit of mineral oil til I have a slurry paste.

    Then I run this into the leather.

    It's worked well for the last decade.

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