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About WolfteverGunleather

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    Ooltewah, TN, USA

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Holsters, Belts

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  1. Anyone know where I can find a blue gun or other molding prop for a classic model 29 S & W 44 magnum with a 4” barrel? I’ve tried my regular sources, with no luck. I would appreciate any help. Phil
  2. @DustinSmith Very nice! What secrets can you share about how you keep your basketweave lined up so beautifully?
  3. The reason for lining with veg tan is that the chromium salts in chrome tanned leather are harmful to the finish of the firearm over time, so my personal standard is that I never line a holster with anything except veg tan. But I realize there are different opinions on the issue and many holsters exist that are lined with non veg tan leather. I don’t know where you are located, but do you know if there are other leather workers in your vicinity that might be able to share a small piece of thin veg tan?
  4. @JayEhl @YinTx @fredk @chuck123wapati @Alaisiagae Thank you for your comments.
  5. @YinTx This one was part of the Bible.
  6. Made this bible cover for my granddaughter. Frame is Horween Essex in natural 5/5.5 ounce, inlay is kidskin in robin's egg blue, lined with veg tan horse front. Hand stitched using .8 Tiger thread. She loves it. There appears to be a difference in color between the front and back, but there's not. I took the front picture, then got interrupted by one of my dogs. When I came back a few minutes later and took a picture of the back, apparently the sunlight was different. I didn't notice it till later on after I had already given her the cover.
  7. I decided to make myself a new strop for my round knives. Something to work very well and produce a razor edge, but also something to look nice and be proud of. Two pieces of black walnut glued up into a block 2” x 3 1/2” x 16”, with a piece of hard jacked horse butt glued to the top. These pictures are before applying any honing compound.
  8. @judgebc They are called russet horsehide strips. You can contact The Tannery Row on their online store and order them.
  9. I bought my Cobra 4 from Leather Machine Company, and I was very pleased with the setup and service. When I ordered it, they asked me what size thread I intended to use primarily. They installed the correct size needle, set up the tension for the preferred thread, sewed a sample piece, and included it in my shipment. Once I got the machine, I had a couple of questions, so I picked up the phone and called them and they were very helpful. I had the machine up and running well very quickly thanks to their service. When I was shopping for machines, I had lots of questions. I posted them on this site, and Wiz jumped in with some very helpful advice which helped me make what I consider to be a good decision. Being a newbie on heavy stitching machines at the time, I was very appreciative of the advice I got from Wiz and the excellent service I got from Steve at LMC. I would not have wanted to make an expensive mistake by trying to import a machine directly. If I were highly experienced in that area, I might be willing to explore direct importing, but I certainly don't consider Wizcrafts' advice to be rubbish, and I greatly appreciate the value that a reputable dealer like LMC adds to this process.
  10. @caressofsteel I don't claim to be an expert, but I'll share my opinion based on my experience having made many holsters and other products, and having worked at a vegetable tannery for several years many years ago. I normally buy backs only since the bellies are worthless to me. When I receive a back, I'll measure 60" from the butt toward the head and make a cut across the back from backbone to belly edge, dividing the back into a bend and a shoulder. Then I make a perfectly straight cut along the backbone of the bend, giving me a straight edge for stripping out belts. The bend area is preferred for belts due to being denser and less stretchy than the shoulder. Then I'll use the shoulder area first for holsters and sheaths. The bend area works fine for holsters and sheaths, but I prefer to save it for belts and large pieces if I'm doing a project that requires it. If I do use the bend area for something other than belts, I'll cut lower (closer to the belly edge) to preserve my straight edge at the backbone for belts. That approach works for me. I'm sure there are plenty of other opinions out there. Best of luck on your holster making!
  11. What @Matt Ssays about no "one size fits all" machine existing is correct. I have a Cobra class 4 that I keep set up for 277 top/207 bobbin that I use for holsters, sheaths, and other heavy work. I I love it for the heavy work, but found out pretty quickly after buying it that it is not as well suited for lighter work as other machines are. I also discovered how inefficient it is to lose a lot of time adjusting and tweaking tension and other settings when going back and forth on thread weights and needle sizes. I started shopping for another machine and found a used Cowboy 3200 on this site at a good price and bought it. I keep it set up for 138 top and bottom and use it for bags, journals, and other lighter work. I really appreciate the time saving of being able to sew both heavy and light without resetting the machine. With some patience and persistence, you could possibly find two used machines in good condition from members of this site without blowing your 3k budget too bad. Good luck!
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