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About klaykrusher

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    Sporting clays 'klaykrusher ;-)', shooting, outdoors, leather working, off roading

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Belts and cases

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  1. Those are really nice, very clean and great attention to detail. You may have mentioned in other threads, but I was wondering what finish products you use? They have a nice satin sheen, so I was thinking resolene?
  2. COBRA Class 4-P Premium Package....Excellent Like New Condition. Under 40 hours of Non-Commercial use. Always stored indoors. Our time is taken up by other responsibilities so we will not be using this in the foreseeable future. $2400. Must pick up (Cleveland, OH), cannot deliver. I am available if you want your shipper to come and crate/ship it. i have original box. All accessories shown, 6 roles of thread (207 & 277), work table still in box, never opened. From manufacturer: The COBRA Class 4 will sew from 6 oz. to 7/8″ leather for sewing skirting, all types of tack, bullet loops, chap leather and everything in between with ease. The COBRA Class 4 comes with many features including our heavy-duty multi-purpose presser feet. They are strong and compact, allowing you to sew in small areas easier than ever before. The COBRA Class 4 comes with a heavy-duty pedestal style stand with locking caster wheels, a variable speed digital DC servo motor, model SR2 heavy-duty ball-bearing speed reducer, thread stand, ten extra needles, four bobbins, tools, and oil. An Instructional DVD and parts manuals are also included. You will NOT need to modify the COBRA presser feet, like other companies require you to do. These presser feet have been approved by some of the most respected saddle makers, and holster makers in the business. The COBRA presser feet will not bend or break under normal sewing conditions. Premium Accessory Package Includes: Left Toe Presser Foot $75* Open Toe Center Foot $65* Double Toe Presser Foot $80* Right Toe Presser Foot $75* Work Platform $95* Leather Point Needles $10* Four Spools of Thread $10* Holster Plate $156* Stirrup Plate $156* Slotted Plate $85* Blanket Set (Inside & Outside Feet w/ Feed Dog) $150* Heavy Duty Roller Edge Guide $95* LDA-1 Magnetic LED Light $20* Oil and tool package Four bobbins Owner and parts manual
  3. For me, I'd like to find one or two vids that really go into detail about the pattern making process. I have to admit that I haven't hunker'd down and spent a lot of time studying it and practicing making them. But things like, on a pancake or saddle holster as Andrews calls it, if I want the front (outside) piece to be longer so the gun sits say 60/40 or 70/30 verses 50/50, what determines how much longer the outside piece should be cut. Hope that makes sense. I have played around with the patterns, but seems to be more of a guessing game until one finally works. most vids attempting to show the process usually have someone saying "and just add a hair" to the stitch line or "I usually add an 1/8th or 1/4 inch to the measurement", etc. It also just may be my OCD for specific details. For cooking recipes, I have no idea what "a pinch" or "a dash" equals.
  4. Thank you, will run a few test pieces to check out the differences.
  5. I guessing this is most probably personal preference, but just wondering what thread spacing folks are using for a double stitched belt. I was looking to run the outer stitch at 3/16 from the edge and the inner stitch 3/8 from the edge.
  6. Very nice Josh! Wondering what type of finish you are using?
  7. Like you said, that's that wonderful Fiebing's oil dye color that keeps on giving....even when you pray it will stop. bagzy, the Pro Oil Dye is specially formulated by Fiebing's to work better with Veg Tan leather. As Dwight said, once dried, you have to buff it to make sure you remove as much of the dye that did not penetrate the hide as you can. A white t-shirt will let you know when you got most of it. I have tried Bag-Kote, and was not too happy with the results, but that is probably because of me, not the product. I also use resolene, diluted 50/50 with water or mop-n-glo, 50/50 as the finish coat. I usually apply 3 coats, letting it dry for an hour between coats. This has worked well, and has not left stain marks.
  8. Well, finally had some time to tinker with this. I just wanted to keep it real simple. Picked up a 30x15x12" unfinished cabinet at Hone Depot and a couple 150w max utility lights and 2 100 watt bulbs. Figured I would just start with the basics and see how it plays out. I decided to keep the cabinet on it's side to match my needs. I cut a couple holes for the light fixtures and then used the spring clamp metal clips to hold the fixtures to the cabinet. With my room at about 70 degrees it took the 2 bulbs about 35 minutes to bring the interior up to 104 degrees. That seems to be about the max temp. I let it cool back down to 70, then used a heat gun to bring it back up to about 100. That took a couple minutes, then the lights just maintained at 104 again. Right now I'm good with the lights on top, but it will be easy to mount the cabinet on a wall and have them on the bottom, I can just switch the hinges for the door if it becomes a hassle. Appreciate all the guidance in this thread and Lobo's HotBox thread.
  9. okay, makes sense. I'm gonna give ALD another try and this time I'll be more specific with what I'm looking for and what I expect.
  10. So what determines whether the flesh side is processed smooth like HO or a little rough or spongey? Is that the grade? So SLC has HO 'B' grade which has a really smooth flesh side for the few backs I've purchased from them. The couple of shoulders i got from ALD the flesh side was not so smooth, pretty rough. My mistake was not specifying a grade at the time, I believe. grain side is pretty nice for these though.
  11. I bring my liner right up to the buckle tongue slot and then fold the outer layer over that. Only adds an 1/8" and once broken in, don't even notice it.
  12. Currently I just use those black foam brushes. Very rare that I get any bubbles like I was getting with resolene. I put on 3 coats. It's not that the shine is bad, I personally just prefer a matte or satin finish. I'm gonna have to try Chief's method above of rubbing it in and see how that goes.
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