Jump to content

Black Dogg

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Black Dogg

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Southern 'Dacks, New York
  • Interests
    Reenacting, outdoors, leatherwork

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    belts, dog collars, leather cases
  • Interested in learning about
    saddle/tack making & repair
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    internet search

Recent Profile Visitors

2,473 profile views
  1. Here are some pics of my latest piece of "machinery": Living in an off-grid cabin, I don't always have enough power to run a Dremel (and definitely not a bench grinder), so I built this treadle burnisher. I bought a sewing machine treadle on ebay and put a table top on it. Then I added the double-ended mandrel ( https://www.constantines.com/mandreldoubleended.aspx ). On the left I put a felt wheel with green (x-fine) compound for polishing knives and other cutting tools. The right side has a regular drill chuck for attaching the leather burnisher (from Pro Edge Burnishers) or any other rotary tool. Some new sewing machine belting from McMaster-Carr ( www.mcmaster.com ) lets it spin like a top. I already put a razor-edge on all my leather knives and the burnisher works great, too. Talk about some shiny edges!
  2. Yes, it's still here. But I have no idea how much it would cost to ship overseas. Based on previous small envelopes I've sent to Germany probably around $ 15 to 20. It gets pricey really fast once you put anything other than a sheet of paper in. Hope this helps! Black Dogg
  3. Knife #1 and #3 are sold pending funds; #2 is still available. Black Dogg
  4. I recently upgraded to a new swivel knife and figured, since I can only use one at a time, having four around won't do me any good. I know that the price of tools is high, especially if you're just getting started and want to get the basic tools for yourself. That's why I'm making the following offer for folks new to the hobby: I have three swivel knives for sale; two are adjustable (#1 and #2) and come with a narrow, straight blade and one is non-adjustable (#3) and has an angled filigree blade (for detail work and small carvings). They are the basic Tandy models, but I have cleaned and lubed the swivel with sewing machine oil so it is a lot smoother than out of the box. I also sharpened and stropped the blades (when you get them from Tandy they don't cut well) so they are ready to carve when you get them. I will sell these for $ 10.00 each (postage included in CONUS) plus with each one I will throw in two random Craftool stamps (I have some duplicates that I acquired over the years). Please PM me with the number of the knife you would like and your address. Payment is by USPS money order. I will reserve your knife once I get the PM and send it out as soon as I get the MO. Black Dogg
  5. Hi Roland and welcome to Leatherworker! This glue here https://schuhbedarf.de/klebstoffe/klebstoff-dosen/haller-hirschkleber-innenkleber-lederkleber-das-original-600gr.-dose.html is what I would use. Barge's or any other contact cement certainly work, but Hirschkleber is all natural and doesn't have the awful smell of the solvent based cements. Also, a little goes along way; that 600g tub will last you for a long time. I've had mine for ten years and it's not even half gone. If it turns thick over time, just mix a little water in it. I also second what Mattsbagger said above! Good Luck and post some pics when you're done ! Black Dogg
  6. Shoepatcher, there's a few pics in the thread I posted three years ago (see above). If you're looking for some close-up shots, let me know and I'll see what I can do. How did come by FIVE of these, anyway? Did you buy them from private sales or was there a dealership somewhere over here? I didn't think there'd be so many over here; I had figured they were more of a European machine. Black Dogg
  7. Yup, that's me . By the way, when I watched your vid of the restored machine in action, I noticed that in the beginning you seem to be threading the shuttle the wrong way. According to the manual, the thread comes off the spool, out through the long slit, back over the spool and then out through the center hole in the other side. If you need more tension for the bottom thread, you have to feed the thread back inside through the second hole and out the third again. I guess some shuttles even had five holes for really high tension in extra thick leathers or multiple layers. Finding that manual was a godsend for me; I had spent hours trying to figure out all kinds of different ways to run the thread but just could not get it to work right. Another difference between your machine and mine I noticed is the flap covering the threadhook on the back of the arm. Yours swings down to open; on mine it is hinged and swings backwards. Black Dogg
  8. Constabulary, here's the post from three years ago with pics of my machine (and your thread stand ): The drawer on mine is missing, but it used to be on the right side of the stand, under the main part of the head. The two wood guides for it are still there and I want to build a new drawer for it. Black Dogg
  9. Well, I just watched the video in the first post and that is EXACTLY the machine I have! So if the title is correct I have one from around 1890 ! Thanks for posting it, Constabulary! I had figured (based on the four-digit serial number) it would be from around 1910-1920, but another 20 years older is great. Just shows that back then things were really built to last. Black Dogg
  10. Very impressive job, Constabulary! Da sag ich nur: "Hut ab!" I bet you wish you would have kept that threadstand you sold to me a couple of years ago , it would fit perfect with that machine. If you need the complete manual for it (or a class 17), try www.altenaehmaschine.de . Mr. Bethke has scans of the original manuals there. they helped me finally figure out how to thread mine. By the way, what's the serial number of your machine? Mine is 4910 and I think fairly early, because of how fancy the stand and paint are. The front crank on yours was an option that had to be special ordered when you placed the order with the factory and was more money. It was meant to make starting easier (instead of reaching around the side one could just use the front crank). As far as I know, every machine has the round cut-out cast into the body. And yes, I heard the same about the factory being destroyed in an air raid at the end of WW 2. A crying shame, if you ask me; those machines are awesome!! Again, very nice job on the restoration!! Black Dogg
  11. Yeah, that works, too. I always put a dab of grease right in front of the lock between the barrel and stock to keep any water from creeping through the small gap there. I quit using 4F, too, about ten years ago. I just prime from my horn with 3F, never had a problem yet. I've shot more deer with my flinter than with my modern gun. You should get yours back out again, even if it's just for some target shooting. They are fun to play around with, that's for sure! Black Dogg
  12. A bit more on the history of these: The name comes from the actual animal part used for making the original ones. You would skin out a cow's leg and tan the knee section without stretching it too much, so the "hump" was preserved. It has the perfect shape to fit over a flintlock. A good coating of tallow/beeswax/bear oil/lard (or combination thereof) made it quite water resistant. I've been out on an overnight trek where it rained about half the time we were in the woods and at the end my rifle went off without a hitch (we loaded blanks that time, as keeping it dry was part of the challenge)! They are really handy when it snows while out hunting. garypl: Mine is tied around the bottom in front of the triggerguard with a looped half hitch (like tying your shoes) and on the wrist with a square knot. I can untie the front and just pull the cow's knee back by the time I bring the gun up. Not quite as fast as without one, but better than not having the gun off at all ! Nicely done, Sceaden!! Mine is just a piece of braintan stitched up and by now almost black from all the grease and powder residue. Black Dogg
  13. I thought exactly the same thing when I first started out and was looking at the expense and/or time involved in buying or making a horse. Once I built mine (according to the plans in Stohlman's "Art of Handsewing Leather") and used it a couple of times, I realized it was time and money VERY WELL spent. Mattsbagger and Battlemunky have it right: For odd shaped pieces (and sometimes even for huge flat pieces) just use your imagination and turn/bend/squeeze until it holds. Sometimes a block of wood or old bathtowel shoved inside a pouch or such piece will bulk it up enough to clamp in the horse the way you want it. Bottom line: They were invented quite a long time ago for a reason and the basic principle hasn't changed much because it works. Not everything works for everyone, but I would not want to be without mine! If you don't want to go out on a limb with a full size stitching horse, I would suggest to build or buy a simple clam (or "pony") and try it. if it's something you like you can always upgrade and if it doesn't work for you then you didn't spend a lot of money. Whatever you decide, have fun with your new hobby (or should I say addiction?) and enjoy it! Black Dogg
  • Create New...