vpd66

No problem. If your half way mechanically inclined, able to follow directions, then I see no reason why you can't get these types of machine sewing with the videos.

Watch this video and the part 2 video. This is the best explanation of how to go through all the adjustments on a triple feed walking foot machine. It is demonstrated on a Consew 206rb5 but I've used it on my Singer 111w155 in combination with the Singer service manual to get my machine in tune. Sorry the video started in the middle. It was where I saved it.

Looking for a Pfaff 1245-706 sewing machine. Let me know what you have.

Oh don't worry I have no intention of buying one. I just thought it was strange that it has no following on the internet. Most of the chinese clone stuff have several reviews on Youtube or get brought up on forums, but there just seems to be nothing out there on these machines.

Obnoxious link to an ebay fake leather sewing machine auction Anyone know anything about these machines? They don'''t seem to be the same has the Sailrite/Rex 609 style machines. Are they a clone of a different machine? It looks like they have sold quite a few but no reviews and no one has even mentioned them on the internet.

Hmmm, maybe I have the only one that works? I'm quite impressed with mine. It's the only machine I have that can back stitch and hit the same holes right on the money even at 7 stitches per inch. I also have a Singer 111w155 and I like my patcher much better. It won't replace the Singer but it is my go to machine. I like the fact that I can totally disassemble my patcher with a handful of tools in about 15 minutes. It's just so simple and I have less then $150 in it!

Do you own one or have you ever sewn with one? They actually sew really well and I consider them an excellent low dollar home hobby machine for someone that doesn't want to spend 4 figures on a sewing machine.

In my opinion being able to hand crank sew with this machine is one of its benefits. Being able to sew one stitch at a time and be very accurate with your stitch placement is one of the things that I like about this machine. I know there are other people that have motorized these Chinese patchers but I don't think its necessary. Even when doing longer straight stitching I don't find it very difficult to operate the machine with the hand crank.

Good job! Keep updating us on this style sewing machine. I think these are great machines for hobby use and I love reading about people upgrading and having success with these Chinese patchers.

Excellent!!!!

Also make sure when you stop sewing that take up lever is all the way up and the needle is up. I noticed on my machine that the needle can be raised out of the material,but the take up lever will not be all the way to the top (locking the stitch). That causes some problems on starts and stops.

I have a 111w155 machine and I've been having the same problem since i got it 3 years ago. Somethings I learned is always hold the top and bottom thread on starts for a couple stitches so the hook doesn't catch them. Watch when you wind your bobbin that the thread winds across from one side to the other. If it doesn't the tread won't come off consistent and change the bobbin tension. When i start I always rotate the hand wheel to sink the needle into the material before sewing with the motor.How are you locking your stitches at the start? I was sewing 3-4 stitches, then lifting the foot and pulling the material back to the start and sewing over the 3-4 stitches to lock them, but it was causing all kinds of problems with tangling around the bobbin. Now I hand sew 3-4 stitches then with the needle in the material, lift the foot and turn the material 180 degrees and hand sew over then spin it 180 again and continue to sew. Seems to work better. Every once in a while I still get bobbin tangle at starts, but not has much has I did before.

I always run a test stitch on the same material I'm sewing when I change stitch length. I don't trust the indicator numbers. Don't have an answer for the position of the needle bar. I'm sure someone will chime in on that and give you a hand.

Hello, I'm not a machine expert either, but own the same machine and have tinkered with it. Mine also has 5 spi has the smallest stitch length marked on the wheel. I can get about 4 spi if I go a little past the 5 mark. I know it makes a difference on the thickness and how many layers of material your sewing. I also have the same problem with my timing marks and have just learned to live with it. My machine sews just fine so it doesn't bother me. I guess something (belt pulley, belt worn) is causing the marks to be off a little, but it is not that big of deal. As long has the hook passes the needle at the correct time it will sew just fine.

Thanks guys!!! I loosened the 2 screws and moved the hook assembly over a little until it wasn't touching the needle. Tightened and lubed everything and now it is sewing great! Gregg that is one of the best manuals I've seen on this machine. I have the Singer manual, but it is old, the pictures aren't that good, and its a little hard to follow. Thanks!!!

I had to replace my hook in my Singer 111w155. I bought a quality replacement hook and it went in good. The only question I have is should the hook touch the needle when it goes by it? My new hook actually touches and bends the needle over about .060. My old hook didn't touch the needle but was very close. I've sewn with the new hook and it seems fine but when I hand roll the machine over it feels like a bind spot when the hook passes the needle. I've read the manuals and nothing is said (or maybe I missed it) about the hook touching or moving the needle over. Should I bend the hook in a little so it isn't bending that needle when it passes it? I also tried a new needle and I got the same results.So my needle wasn't bent.

Thats what I thought. I just figured it was poor quality import feet.

Then why does it sew perfect with my 1/4" cording foot (the one that came with the machine)? First thing I did was adjust the presser foot pressure, but with the knob turned all the way to the light side it still wouldn't feed. When I compared the cording foot to the zipper foot there was almost 1/8" difference in height. The right hand zipper foot only required a little grinding to work, but the left one was the one that was really long. These zipper feet were from the same manufacturer bought at the same time and were very cheap. I think they were $14.00 shipped to my door. I just figured it was an import quality control thing. Both work perfect now without having to adjust the machine when changing feet.

I bought a right and left zipper foot off ebay for my 111w155 a while ago and had some issues with them fitting properly. The foot that the needle went threw did not ride up high enough on the shaft it mounts to and it was causing too much pressure on the material and it wouldn't feed the material. I compared it to the foot i had and noticed the difference. I had to drill the mounting hole deeper and grind some off the top so it rode up higher on the shaft. Just a little FYI.

Best thing to do is get the factory manual and go through all set settings on your machine. Practice sewing and learn how your machine operates. I don't know if there is a DVD or book that covers it all. Most good sewing machine repair men have years of experience. Thats what makes them good. There is no substitute for experience. That said, maybe you could find an experienced repair man that would teach you what he knows. Just an idea.

Also check out Youtube. There are some helpful videos.

I have the same machine and was in the same boat a few years ago. Mine was used in a production shoe shop but it didn't have any modifications done to it. These are very simple to work on once you get associated with it. The manuals are kind of hard to follow has they are 50-60 years old. Some of the newer Consew manuals are better has these sewing machines are direct copies. I don't know your sewing experience but I had very little sewing experience when I got mine and most of the problem I had were not the machines fault but me. I went through my machine and got it sewing but had problems with start ups. I took my machine to a mechanic and he checked it over and said there was nothing wrong with it. I talked with him for a while and figured it was just the way I was locking my stitches on my starts that was giving me problems. I started doing it the way he told me and I'm having alot less problems. Also simple things like putting the needle in correctly can make a world of difference (don't ask how I know! LOL). I lube mine with TriFlow. Thats what the sewing shop told me to use.

I'm going to Green Bay, WI tomarrow for the day and was wondering if there is any leather related (tooling,hides,and etc) store to hit?

Thanks Eric!, I don't think these machines are has hard to work on has people think. The manuals are hard to follow and lack pictures. When you have only one machine with a problem and not another to compare it to or know how it should be (I guess thats called experience) doesn't make it easy. With help from people like you we can keep these machines running! I'm looking forward to seeing your videos, keep us posted has to when there done. Thanks again, Vince

Ok, had a chance to do some checking and adjusting on my Singer this afternoon. Nick, I checked the hook to needle bar movement and it is tight, no play at all. Eric, I looked at the cam on the end of the arm shaft and everything is tight. It seems that mine has set screws holding it on. If I look down from the top of the machine just to right of the take-up lever is a hole that you can get at the set screws for the arm shaft cam. I checked and they were tight. I put the belt back on with the marks 1/8" (or half tooth) off and played around with the adjusting the hook to needle like you suggested. I got it to sew better then it ever has. I had a test piece about 12" long and ran about 10 rows of stitches and never had the problem I had before. Thanks for the help! You mentioned in the other thread about making some videos on adjusting these machines, any progress on these? Thanks, Vince