Renoir

My mum is also metal sensitive - any buckles or studs *touching the skin* are a no-no. Check out the ranger style belt - As long as there is leather backing the buckle you should be OK. I adapted this and made her a watch strap with a pad under the buckle and watch back - the first time she's been able to wear a nice watch for years (otherwise it's awful rubber straps, as most traditional straps expose the buckle or watch back). I've had a couple of ranger-style belts and worn them for years - more comfortable. It's on my list of projects to make next...

I'd add any shops or UK distributors worth visiting. For example: A.W Midgely and son, Cheddar - huge range of leather, all types ( http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56577#entry363093 ) More for advanced hobbyist/professional, although they will do you a single hide if you want. Pittards leather ( http://www.pittardsleather.co.uk/ ) - Yeovill - lots of smaller thinner hides (mainly 1-2mm) in a large variety of colours and prints. a few larger hides in brown. Lots of 2nd and 3rd class stuff too, and scraps. Little or no veg-tan though, mostly or all chrome-tan, since they make gloves. They have a shop attached to the factory with a large room full of hides where you can browse. Le Provo - used them, good tools and good leather, helpful on the phone but clunky online ordering.

While researching suppliers, it's a bit tricky sometimes to tell whether a supplier or warehouse is suitable for you. Some require a minimum order size, may be online only, and may not have a way of viewing what you're buying (e.g. ebay). With this in mind, I wanted to write a short review of my experience at suppliers so that others might benefit. A.W. Midgley and Son is a UK supplier (website http://www.awmidgley.co.uk ) based in Cheddar, in the south west. It's reasonably accessable from Bath, Bristol, and is just over an hour's drive from where I live. On the website they say they are happy for customers to call at the warehouse, so I gave them a visit. Google/satnav directed me to the buisness park (BS27 3EB) easily, and they are located towards the end of the park - just keep driving and looking, a couple of turns later you should see it on the right - there is a small carpark for visitors. On opening the door, you walk straight into the warehouse - a veritable playground of leather hides - in a hundred different colours and patterns. https://plus.google.com/photos/104400411479647274773/albums/6028107499498037585 We were met by a very nice chap, I think his name may be Will (from http://mirjamidesign.blogspot.co.uk/2012/11/luxurious-leather.html). He was extremely helpful and knowledgable, and although I had a vague idea of what I wanted (some thin veg-tan natural, maybe coloured) he helped by showing me several natural veg-tan skins and explaining a lot. He also grabbed a huge stack of mixed single veg-tan shoulders, and went through them, one by one - explaining a bit about the different types. With his help, I chose 3 coloured veg-tan shoulders and a natural veg-tan calf hide. Pricing was very good too, and they seem very happy to give even the casual hobbyist a great customer service. They seem to have a pretty wide variety of hides, different weights/thickness, and plenty of colours. They also have pretty large stocks of popular (e.g. blacks and browns) - if you wanted a larger order. I would definitely recommend a visit for anyone in the south west - you're bound to find something nice, and I am definitely coming back for more in the future. Great place.

My guess is that circle has been cut from thin leather and glued on to cover the snap back

great idea - would probably give a nice flat surface too. "Blade has to be sharp" - applies to pretty much all leather cutting! My results improved greatly once I learnt how to properly sharpen a knife...

Nice tutorial! very helpful. do you give all your pieces a 'serial number'? It's a good idea for when you get famous and copies come out...

+1 like for the R2 unit Nice start!

I guessed as much - but "gutenberg" (most likely the original source for the books) came up blank This is the first hobby I've done where a 100-year old resource is almost as applicable as a 1-year old resource. I'm used to computing where six months is 'old'....

I got prescribed new glasses last week as my arms are not long enough to read anymore. £300 english pounds - at least they have good magnification for close work, like sewing.

I'm surprised that someone hasn't posted this before (maybe they have) : Project Gutenberg (out of copyright books) has a few books on leather you can download. http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/40286 Decoration of Leather by George de Recy - descriptions of various leather techniques http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/41927 A Complete Guide to the Ornamental Leather Work by James Revell - mainly leather flowers http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/43377 Leather by K. J. Adcock - mainly tanning and leather preparation Has anyone else found online old books or patterns worth posting? maybe we can make a list.

I've read that too - for edges and the flesh side. I also want to get one of the glass squares for burnishing/smoothing

oh - for leather dye get a box of 100 disposable gloves from ebay. *dye stains human flesh*. Who'da thought it?

I haven't got the experience to comment, but nice work. I don't know if something like tan-kote would help smooth/protect the flesh side of the belt?

Nice work! ambitious for a first big project, but came out really nice.

Awesome job! I love the time-lapse - really shows how much work goes into it! Nice work on the EMT/Fire tooling - I like the effect, very striking. I must get some acrylic paints.

Nice work! are you using a swivel knife (or similar) or are your lines embossed? they seem to have a 'v' shaped style - I quite like that effect with the painting.

^ what he said. Ian atkinson is great - also watch the nigel armitage video on saddle stitching! I started with a craft knife, steel ruler, and some crappy nylon thread and glover's needles from the local stitch shop. Good enough to make my first watch strap though. I bought a couple of veg-tan grade 3 kip sides (077) from http://www.leprevo.co.uk. Because it's cheap (for leather), I wasn't worried about making a mistake - and there are plenty of small projects where you can cut around the marks and scars. I used the offcuts to practice cutting and skiving. I also bought a veg-tan shoulder and some pigskin for lining, for when I 'got better'. I'm having great fun! Tools I'd recommend (also make a strop and learn how to sharpen!) one edger two diamond awls a stitch wheel or pricking iron I'm using a snap-off hobby knife for cutting - actually pretty sharp once stropped, and you can change the blade frequently. Use one to learn how to sharpen - that way you don't damage an expensive knife. YMMV Edit : also http://abbeyengland.com

Found this link while googling: http://www.theleatherconnection.com/id33.htm Useful as a list of links

From another thread I just answered... I recently started and I'd agree with the first couple of lists give here - the things I found most useful: Youtube videos! (Ian Atkinson and Nigel Armitage are the best!) Diamond stitching awl - get two - and some sandpaper/wet'dry paper, various grades (cheap shop stuff is fine). **Learn how and SHARPEN THE AWL**. Or, if you buy an awl from goods japan they come ready-sharp!. John James no.2 saddler/harness needles. Cheap as chips, they'll post you some ( http://www.jjneedles...ss-Needles.html) A pony or something to hold work while stitching is essential. you could probably make something fairly easily, even a bit of wood and a rubber band will help - hold between your knees and have both hands free for sewing. Sharp knife and ruler - craft knife, snap-off knife, is fine to start with - must be sharp. A bit of scrap leather, scrap wood and some polishing paste/jewellers paste to make a strop. Stropping a craft knife/snap-off knife is enough to give it a nice edge. It won't last as long as the 'proper' knives, but stropping really helps keep the edge sharp. I bought a couple of grade 3 hides (077) and a lovely shoulder (026) from le provo ( http://www.leprevo.co.uk/hides.htm ). a bit of a faff for ordering online, but great customer support. the grade 3's are great for learning - you don't worry about 'wasting' it as it's a lot cheaper, and making small things (watch straps, bracelets, wallets) you can cut around the marks and find a nice bit. Good tools and prices too. a medium edge beveller (normally no 2) - nice for finishing edges. use a scrap of canvas or material for burnishing or get a cheap wooden burnishing tool. (wet the edge with a wet finger and rub until smooth and dark) ** optional A stitch groover is handy (one that makes a groove near the edge). GoodsJapan make a good one that can do it with an edge guide, or without (freehand) and even comes with a crease tool. I like the look of that - it replaces about 4 other tools ** optional a stitch wheel - maybe 7 stitches per inch? to help measure your stitching. Pricking Irons are expensive, but a good investment later. I would recommend fiebings professional oil dye - just get a 4oz bottle of a nice brown colour (mahogany?) to start. Much nicer results and avoids lots of the problems of cheaper dyes. **disposable gloves for dyeing Carnuba cream and/or leather sheen or resoline finish - fiebings? Tan-kote for finishing the 'flesh' (inside) of leather. A safety skiver is a good tool - can be replaced by a very sharp knife and some practice. I found the bendy snap-off knives, once stropped, do a nice job. videos of skiving (thinning the leather, usually at the joins or edges) will help. pencil and rubber for marking lines (preferably the back of the leather). If you want to try tooling, then a starter set of stamps/bevelling tools and a rubber/plastic/rawhide hammer. Much more fun to grab some real leather and have a go - don't be scared of it, it's great fun. Interesting restrictions you have on a boat - it should be a good hobby!

I recently started and I'd agree with the first couple of lists give here - the things I found most useful: Youtube videos! (Ian Atkinson and Nigel Armitage are the best!) Diamond stitching awl - get two - and some sandpaper/wet'dry paper, various grades (cheap shop stuff is fine). **Learn how and SHARPEN THE AWL**. Or, if you buy an awl from goods japan they come ready-sharp!. John James no.2 saddler/harness needles. Cheap as chips, they'll post you some ( http://www.jjneedles...ss-Needles.html) A pony or something to hold work while stitching is essential. you could probably make something fairly easily, even a bit of wood and a rubber band will help - hold between your knees and have both hands free for sewing. Sharp knife and ruler - craft knife, snap-off knife, is fine to start with - must be sharp. A bit of scrap leather, scrap wood and some polishing paste/jewellers paste to make a strop. Stropping a craft knife/snap-off knife is enough to give it a nice edge. It won't last as long as the 'proper' knives, but stropping really helps keep the edge sharp. I bought a couple of grade 3 hides (077) and a lovely shoulder (026) from le provo ( http://www.leprevo.co.uk/hides.htm ). a bit of a faff for ordering online, but great customer support. the grade 3's are great for learning - you don't worry about 'wasting' in as it's a lot cheaper, and making small things (watch straps, bracelets, wallets) you can cut around the marks and find a nice bit. Good tools and prices too. a medium edge beveller (normally no 2) - nice for finishing edges. use a scrap of canvas or material for burnishing or get a cheap wooden burnishing tool. (wet the edge with a wet finger and rub until smooth and dark) ** optional A stitch groover is handy (one that makes a groove near the edge). GoodsJapan make a good one that can do it with an edge guide, or without (freehand) and even comes with a groove thing. I like the look of that - it replaces about 4 other tools ** optional a stitch wheel - maybe 7 stitches per inch? to help measure your stitching. Pricking Irons are expensive, but a good investment later. I would recommend fiebings professional oil dye - just get a 4oz bottle of a nice brown colour (mahogany?) to start. Much nicer results and avoids lots of the problems of cheaper dyes. **disposable gloves for dyeing Carnuba cream and/or leather sheen or resoline finish - fiebings? Tan-kote for finishing the 'flesh' (inside) of leather. A safety skiver is a good tool - can be replaced by a very sharp knife and some practice. I found the bendy snap-off knives, once stropped, do a nice job. videos of skiving (thinning the leather, usually at the joins or edges) will help. pencil and rubber for marking lines (preferably the back of the leather). If you want to try tooling, then a starter set of stamps/bevelling tools and a rubber/plastic/rawhide hammer. Much more fun to grab some real leather and have a go - don't be scared of it, it's great fun.

I tried with a tack puller from the local market stall - already has a nice v shape, just sharpen up the 'v' and flatten the bottom. Probably too large for a 'fine' edger, but may be ok for larger/heavier leather.

Thanks - I'd used ebay for bearings and similar, but I'd not thought of trying it for stock. There's quite a variety of suppliers on there now!

In theory, since the standard swivel knife blades are 7/32 inch (5.56mm) then it should be possible to drill and insert a standard blade.

http://www.iilg.net/tmp/LGOC/ShopTalk_SwivelKnife.pdf more than I ever knew about swivel knives

Thanks for reading Yep, in my UK experience, there are two 'commonly' available ball bearings : the RC size, and the larger 8mm id/'skate' bearings used for skateboards and in-line skates. I happen to have a couple of dozen of the former lying around from an old project. Of course, you can always order from the 'net. I'm still getting started, so I don't know how this compares to a 'real' swivel knife - but it does the job and is a lot more controllable than the knife on its own. Definitely an improvement - still learning the cutting and tooling skills. The slight angle to the scalpel actually seems to help a lot - you can hold the knife vertically and it cuts nicely. According to the tandy videos, some swivel knives have angled blades too, or you hold them at an angle. I've done a bit of home drilling/tapping before and I'd be happy doing the same thing with an aluminium rod - it's relatively soft and metals are fine with a nice sharp drill and some cutting fluid - just go slowly and cool frequently to avoid work hardening. Nice idea about using a standard blade. The plastic mount is actually pretty shoddy - it hardly tightens at all (it's possible to pull the original blade out with your fingers, almost just a friction fit). A slightly more substantial holder would probably nicely drill and hold a standard blade. In fact... using the brass collar from the plastic knife, it would be possible to thread a mild steel rod and probably form your own blade holder... maybe time for an update..