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rktaylor

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Posts posted by rktaylor


  1. DanC,

    Thanks for the tips. I agree its not right. I am mostly relying on the Stohlman books which teach to cover horns like this. I'm just not very good at it, but I'm trying to get better.

    Ron,

    Here's a photo of the back and another while it was still wet. Once the cap was sewn, I stretched the underneath piece as tight (I thought) as I could get it. It looked and felt tight. I wrapped the top layer clockwise, pulled, smoothed, and pulled some more. Then wrapped it with my latigo piece and torqued it pretty good (again I thought) with my trusty pool cue. The kicker is that I walked away thinking this looks really good. Then saw it the next morning. I also agree on the filler. I skived the piece to about 8 oz. I probably should have skived all three layers. I knew it was going to look thick because the horn cap is 1.5 inches. Funny thing is, the customer is going to wrap it with an inner tube and start roping as soon as he gets it. :)

    Randy

    20200816_155052.jpg

    20200818_183829.jpg


  2. Ron, 

    Thanks. I appreciate the compliments.  As you know,  pushing an awl through five layers of leather and coming out at the right spot is tough. I really like the exposed stitches. This turned out fine, but I think I can do better. I would like to clean up my work around the seat ear, but this wasn't too bad. I'm looking forward to applying these lessons learned to the next saddle. 

    I hope the leg is healed. 

    Randy


  3. 11 hours ago, Goldshot Ron said:

    Randy,

    Your saddle looks good.  I like that it is not all roughout.  Your seat looks smooth and the bead line looks good.  It balances the tooling.  I'm not going to offer any suggestions because everyone has a different reason for what they attempted than I.  How long does it take to get a Swanke tree?  I've heard many good comments about his trees.  Is this a commission saddle?  I'm waiting to see number 10.

    Ron

     

    Thanks Ron, I like the bead lines as well. It is a commission saddle. I like the prairie rose (Jeremiah Watt stamp), but it wouldn't be my top choice. It's about 4 months out for a Swanke tree. It was really nice. I have another Swanke tree that should arrive later this month. It's an Olin Young roper. I plan to take it to the Wichita Falls show in October.

    8 hours ago, battlemunky said:

    I think it looks great :)

    Thanks. I appreciation to compliment.

    Randy


  4. Here's the latest saddle (#9). It's a 15" Will James on Swanke tree. I suppose there's always room for improvement, but I think it turned out fine. I still struggle with welted swell covers. There are a few other things I would like to do over, but not bad enough to actually do them over. Critique and comments are appreciated.

    Randy

    Will James 01.jpgWill James 02.jpgWill James 03.jpgWill James 04.jpg


  5. Jared,

    I hoped some more experienced makers would have provided a critique. I am currently working on #9 so take my comments for what they're worth. Most of them may simply be a preference.

    First off, for a second effort, I think this is pretty good and I commend you for finding an experienced saddle maker to work under. Your stamping looks great. The basket weave is really uniform and the border is great. From what I can see in the pictures, the swell cover looks tight and the lacing is good. It looks like you take a lot of pride in your edges.

    The seat ears are obvious. I personally like saddle strings there instead of the screw. I just think it looks better. I also prefer a more defined seat jockey. It's probably a little harder to accomplish on a saddle this large. The front jockey looks like it could be cut a little shorter to align with the rear jockey, but that may just be the picture angles. If it were cut higher, the seat jockey would be more defined. From what I can see the rear jockeys seem tight against the cantle back, but not as tight against the skirts. This is certainly one area where I try to focus improvement. It's one of the first places I look when critiquing a saddle.

    Kudos on the exposed stitching on the cantle binding. That's a bold move for a second saddle and it looks like you did pretty good. Good luck on #3, I look forward to seeing it soon.

    Randy


  6. I try to get a saddle out of two sides, but mistakes that I can't live with sometimes cost me. If you have your patterns before you start cutting, you can be more efficient. I pretty much stick to 13/15 Hermann Oak. I plug skirts just like Jeremiah Watt, leaving the space under the leg without plugs. I want to make sure the skirt corners have some stiffness.

    Good luck,

    Randy


  7. I am curious about how you oil a rough out saddle during construction since you don't want to oil the flesh side of the leather. The fenders are straight forward, but what about the seat and skirts? Do you give them a good oiling before gluing? I was thinking about oiling the skirts pretty good after they are blocked and before plugging. Then oil the seat pretty good before gluing it down. Thanks for your thoughts,

    Randy


  8. As mentioned previously, the Panhandle folks are great to deal with. I've bought a lot (at least from my perspective) of leather from them. The HO they sell it's tannery run, so quality is variable.

    I've recently bought #1 HO from Goliger and Montana Leather. Both were easy to work with. I'm going to order a couple sides from Montana next week.

    Randy


  9. I don't believe your thinking is completely flawed, but I'm not sure you're going to get a tree for the price you want. I don't know if you can buy an off the shelf mule tree. I suggest you check with Timberline and Quality Mfg. I used Quality trees on most of the saddles that I have made.I think they are currently $500 + shipping. I'm not sure about Timberline. I looked at them at the Prescott show last year and they looked really good. I'll certainly consider them for my next saddle.

    I would also consider how much bigger your mule will get and try to get the job done with one saddle.

    Just my 2 cents.

    Randy

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