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Wade D

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  1. How'd you get the leather in inlay into the rest of the case?
  2. What tool did you use for stamping the border on this? ~Wade (this looks awesome, by the way)
  3. I'm not sure if it's just due to the location where the leather was on the cow. The entirety of the back sides of them are as they are in the photos. The top photo was supposed to be a "double shoulder," and it looked as if it did come from that area, or at the least, it had the same shape. The bottom part was either a double shoulder or a side, I don't remember which. But the back side of the whole piece from which I took the top photo's sample looks smooth like that, and the back side of the piece from which I took the bottom photo's sample is like that. Bruce said it may be split, though I haven't the expertise to know what he's talking about. Did you mean split as in running it through the leather version of a planer? I checked out the W/C website, and the leather is quite expensive there, as well. If I bought a whole hide that averas 24 sqft at $8.45 per, that ends up being over $200... That's way more than I could afford. If I were to order 6 of those 1'x2' HO slabs, that's $180, and six holsters (I've really no interest now in making belts or other things). If I were to cut the leather from a whole hide to make six holsters, there would surely be a lot of scrap and remnants that ends up not being used. So it's kind of a toss-up. It's still only a hobby, I'm not really trying to sell the holsters or anything, so paying $30 for the leather to make the holster doesn't seem too bad. (I'm referring to western holsters for SAA style revolvers, not the smaller pancake holsters for semi-autos)
  4. I was just checking out the SLC and they have 1ftX2ft pieces of 9/10 oz HO leather for only $30..! I've heard plenty of good things about it. Maybe I'll end up buying a piece and giving it a shot!
  5. Sorry, 25b, when I clicked the link in my email, Chief's post was the only one I saw. I guess if I'm going to be doing these to look nice, instead of just for practicing, then it looks like I'm going to have to end up buying better quality leather.
  6. Wow... yeah, that's pretty clean! Tight and smooth, indeed! Yes, they both came from Tandy. I can't remember the name of the bottom one, but the top is an Oak Leaf brand (is that Tandy specific?). I'm looking because I plan on making holsters, and being that I'm just beginning, lining the holster has proven to be quite a bit of trouble, and the holster pouch never fits through the loops when I try to put it in (I'm referring to an integral loop vice riveted loop). Design flaw, material flaw, talent flaw, combination of all three, likely. Thank you for the info!
  7. So I have two different pieces of leather. I really like how the back of the one type is, nice and smooth, and could likely use it without a lining, if I could find it in a heavier weight. Thing is, I'm afraid I'll get leather the way the second one looks, all weird. Why is there the difference between the two? Is it just the brand? Is it a different process? Or is it just a different quality of leather? The type I'm more fond of is that on the top.
  8. That looks truly remarkable! It must've taken some time to dye it the multi-tone color!
  9. I think it looks pretty spot on! The backskirt is a tad wider, but other than that, it looks awesome!
  10. That's a real nice looking carving!! I'd love to get that good some day. Did you freehand the design or trace it? I can't freehand to save my life, and I end up having to trace the outline of whatever pattern I'm carving.
  11. That's some very fine stitching! is it by hand? If not, what machine do you use?
  12. Thanks Rohn! I really couldn't sell it for more. Up close, even though it's a solid holster the dye job on it makes it look... Off. Good practice though. I just wish I could figure out why the due didn't take.
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