Jump to content

1961Mike

Members
  • Content Count

    54
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About 1961Mike

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oklahoma
  • Interests
    Cowboy shooting, and I'm making a few knife sets for my old Scout Troop.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Belst, Holsters and Knife Sheathes
  • Interested in learning about
    Leather sewing and lacing techniques, as well as how to work with reptile skins.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    CAS CIty

Recent Profile Visitors

2,527 profile views
  1. If you haven't put any Neats foot oil or Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO) on it, it will look gray. I'd let it air out, then put the oil on it. Takes some of the vinegar smell away. Later
  2. OK, mine has NEVER looked that bad and I"m on my second batch. The first lasted a year or so, and I"m say 4 months into the second batch. I keep it in a tall skinny jar from Hobby Lobby. Tall makes for better belt dipping. I have a five gallon bucket ready, but would like to have a house first. Later
  3. I,m new here and may have posted this elsewhere also. Mike, are you saying you have access to Copperhead snakes (skins).  I am in need of a couple now and a source ongoing.

    1. 1961Mike

      1961Mike

      Hi

      A lady I work with kills quite a few.  She (and hubby) live in the woods, and raise hunting dogs as a sideline.  They're all dormant now anyway.  I lucked into this, and wouldn't be using them at all otherwise.  When I get them, they have no head and are frozen solid.

      I'm in Oklahoma, where are you?  Somehow shipping those might be too interesting.

      Mike

  4. Hi I have had to sand the last two belts that I made on the flesh side because they were so rough. Sanding in one direction worked well. I'm relatively new at this sport, but I found out yesterday that using cheap leather can lead to interesting problems. I found a soft spot in the leather and you can't burnish a soft spot. This was 6-7 thick leather. This was for a practice piece, so I"m not that concerned. later
  5. Hi, I'm more of the cowboy leather work sort, but I do have a question. The satchels don't have a buckle which is understandable being a 500 year old design, but did Renaissance ladies actually stick those itty bitty leather shoe laces back through those itty bitty holes when they went from store to store? Later
  6. Hi I think what Chuck is hitting at is that you need to make the BACK of the holster right, the side against your leg, while leaving the FRONT of the holster to grip the gun. If that helps.
  7. Great work, that's the first time I've seen the meander stamp with no opposing stamps. Interesting look. Later
  8. Hi I'm in South Norman dang near to Noble. I already decided on building a paint bay in the garage. I doubt I paint a car, but I do some woodworking. If I can put a decently heavy concrete block next to the cutting table, I might put one of the two table on rollers. Housing prices are climbing unfortunately. Later
  9. Thanks, I didn't think to put that in. I was about to start house hunting more when the 19 showed up. I"d say full sides. Not sure what I"ll be able to afford, but I"m looking at the Barndominium idea. I've always said I need a 1000 Sq Foot house and a 10K Sq Foot storage shed, so hopefully space won't be a problem. I was thinking 4x8 plywood, with the concrete section at one 8 foot side. I would ASSUME that working on a side, from the side would be worst case. I'm looking at cutting table with a tooling part as stated. SO FAR, I don't stamp anything too big, like a suitcase. Cheyenne holsters, belts, and possibly a possibles bag of some sort are the biggest of my goals. Would I be better off with separate cutting area and tooling area? Thanks
  10. Hi I'm curious. I've done leather work on and off for a while including a lot of stamping. 20 years ago, I set crosslegged on the floor of the basement and pounded on the concrete. Now I have the cutout for a bathroom sink on my counter top over a rubber matt that's about 3/4 inch thick. I have no problems in stamping, but with knocking stuff off the countertop when I swap ends of the belt to do meanders (D445S) for example. How large of work space would you like to have? I'm house hunting and would probably use a 4x8 piece of plywood as the cutting and stamping space, but with a 2x3 foot concrete slab about half way on the long side of the table if I get a house. Thanks
  11. Hi Vinegaroon doesn't do that. Good stuff. Roon isn't a dye though, dip the leather for 10 minutes then rinse in a baking soda solution. Later
  12. Hi Y'all, I'm no expert on this to the point of not having handled a pistol with a laser on it, BUT If I was going to build something like that, I'd need the original equipment to build it around. Have fun with that. Later
  13. Hi, I agree, edging is difficult, take a lot of time with it. Since that's a competition piece, adjust-ability may be important. The number of T-nuts may be due to that. I agree with the comment on the belt loop. Have you considered a way to make the carry angle adjustable? Good work though.
  14. Hi, the Vinegaroon quits smelling like Vinegar when the acid has reacted with the steel to become Vinegaroon. This stuff is great, and really pretty cheap. Later
  15. Hi I would start your stitching at the top of the Sheath so that those two lines match up. It's too easy to see the difference, and commonly a difference is seen as a mistake. This "mistake" won't impact the strength of the sheath so I'd argue it isn't a mistake. Great execution. Later
×
×
  • Create New...