MY63

Here is the site tidied up a little with the stone down the side and around the back access will be limited in these areas once the boards start to go on. 2019-02-12_09-20-20 by my0771, on Flickr

Things are moving forward slowly I have added the upper plate and the noggins to tie everything together. The roof is next in an ideal world however I need to use a ladder to reach even though the surrounding ground is hardcore that has been whacked (compacted) the feet of the ladder dig in. So in reality I need to do the floor next so I can stand the ladder on the floor. I have chosen a hi tech chipboard flooring which is sealed on both sides and requires special glue to fix it. 2019-02-09_01-40-05 by my0771, on Flickr Recent high winds caused some issues with the weed barrier blowing it all over the garden so I had to spend time repositioning it the finished height is made up of black basalt stone so I put the stone around the back of the workshop and down the side which will be more difficult to get at later in the build. I have also added the weed barrier under the floor which although it will be sealed I don't want to take any chances. 2019-02-10_05-41-30 by my0771, on Flickr

Once I had completed the door frame and added a couple of extra studs it was time to stand the walls up and secure them to each other and the sole plate. 2019-02-06_03-37-10 by my0771, on Flickr Walls up and fixed together everything is plumb and square forecast for rain tomorrow so the weekend will see the addition of extra noggins to support the walls.

We have had a small amount of snow recently which has slowed progress I managed a couple of hours yesterday so I was able to put the rear wall together and start assembly of the front frame. As I was yet to make the door frame it took a little longer then rain stopped work. I know it is a little difficult to see the frames for the wood at the moment but all will become clear once they are stood up and fastened together.

Thanks @mike02130 I have lots of insulation I visited a local company to get prices for insulation for the whole workshop, It was very expensive as I was leaving I noticed a pallet of tatty looking solid insulation and rolls of loft type insulation. I went back and spoke to the foreman I explained what I was doing and that I was on a limited budget. He walked me back to the pallets and when I asked if I could buy it he said no as it was no longer on their stock file, He then told me to take whatever I wanted and to try not to make too much mess. My garage shed and neighbours shed are full of insulation. There is a very helpful forum UK based woodhaven2 and a guy also called Mike who has been very helpful he is an Architect the base is to his drawings including the positioning of the vents. I had planned on filling the area of soil with expanded polystyrene but he advised against it as it would stop the air from moving freely. The area between the joists is to be filled with solid insulation as you suggest. The next installment will be posted once the weather improves.

Sorry the last image was missing 2019-01-24_05-35-03 by my0771, on Flickr The second piece of wood in the picture is the bottom of the wall frame and is there to help with alignment. The next step was to lay the flooring joists on hangers. 2019-01-27_11-37-37 by my0771, on Flickr Once you have a level flat deck it is an ideal place to build the wall frames. I marked everything and cut the timber over a few days then joined all of the pieces together to form the wall frame. 2019-01-28_06-15-01 by my0771, on Flickr The second wall frame has a window so was slightly more difficult. 2019-01-30_04-34-51 by my0771, on Flickr I started back in November but had a break for hand surgery which has healed nicely. This is everything to date I have a front and back wall to make then the roof and work benches and cupboards for the inside.

I thought someone might be interested in seeing my small Leather workshop take shape up until now I have been working in a small space in the house. My first plan was to turn the garage into a workshop but that is now going to be a utility room / laundry. So the Garden was my next option. This is the old shed which was on the property before we moved in, It was really well built and took some removing. 2018-11-19_04-18-08 by my0771, on Flickr This is my first plan for its replacement. Yes it is on the back of an envelope but I don't smoke anymore so did not have a fag (cigarette) packet to draw on. 2018-11-11_10-01-42 by my0771, on Flickr This was followed by a slightly more detailed scale drawing 2018-11-11_10-02-12 by my0771, on Flickr Foundations involved digging some holes. 2018-12-07_09-39-02 by my0771, on Flickr After digging I had to fill the holes with hardcore. 2019-01-06_04-20-33 by my0771, on Flickr The base was made of 4 concrete lintels a little unusual but it is not covered by planning or building regs. 2019-01-16_04-13-52 by my0771, on Flickr The first layer of wood is laid on a mortar bed with a damp proof course below 2019-01-16_04-13-52 by my0771, on Flickr This is very much a simple version of this build there is a more detailed post on my blog I will continue here if anyone is interested

Thanks @kgg it actually sounds very similar to my planned construction. With the exception of the horizontal studding which is not common here in the UK blown insulation of the type you describe is also uncommon. I plan to use solid insulation boards 4 in thick in the floor walls and roof. OSB 3 is indeed to be used as the vapour barrier on the warm side working outwards insulation followed by the breathable membrane then the 2 in air gap before the final sheeting. All of the timber will be pressure treated and painted before construction begins as you can see from the drawing below there is a 12 sand and stone foundation to ground level then the complete box of 6 in concrete plinth to which the sole or sill plates will be attached complete with damp proof membrane. the floor joists will be hung from this plate, vents will also be fitted. I am not an expert but have been fortunate to find a UK forum woodhaven2 where I obtained all of the information to build my workshop. I have added another crude drawing below. 2018-12-06_02-22-56 by my0771, on Flickr I found some further information about working heights which suggested that for manual type working 6 in below shirt cuff height is best like woodworking and for more intricate work 6 inches above the cuff height is best so I may need one side higher and the other side lower or come up with a fantastic engineering solution to allow the bench heights to be changed.

@Rustwa Thanks that is exactly the sort of information I have been looking for. I was looking at some wood workers on Instagram the other day there were two people working either side of a bench. The owner of the workshop who built the bench had a straight back and looked comfortable the visitor who was slightly taller was hunched over and looked quite uncomfortable. So far I have gathered that the ideal position is just below the elbow, or above the belt buckle, belly button, solar plexus. I think there is a pattern here all of these suggestions put the bench height in a similar place. The bottom of my elbow is 41 inches top of belt line, belly button 40 inches. @rodneywt1180b I did have a budget but that went out of the window some time ago My construction will have a stone foundation with a wooden frame on concrete lintels, the studs will have 100 mm 4 inches of insulation with OSB3 as the internal vapour barrier, Then a membrane before a 50 mm air gap then the outer wood cladding. The floor and roof will also have 100 mm of insulation. In the UK we have permitted development I can build a workshop shed in my garden as long as it is not more than 2.5 m high and is 1 m from my boundary I can build it without permission. I plan to have a decked area in front of the work shop but it might not make the initial build I am having issues digging holes at the moment. Thanks to everyone for the input it is appreciated.

@Matt S Thanks for your detailed response 2018-12-28_12-43-50 by my0771, on Flickr I have made a simple drawing of the interior layout I hope it is visible. The end furthest from the doors will have the largest work area 3 ft 3 in or 1 metre deep with a 1 ft lift out panel. It will span the entire width of the work shop just over 7 ft. I have positioned the doors to allow me to back out of the work shop if cutting long straps. I am also just under 6 ft tall I am planning on a double apex roof which under local planning must be under 2.5 m high so it will be 2.499 m high at the centre with a shallow pitch to 2.4 m at the outer edges. My aims for my leather working have not changed over the last few years I make custom cases for fountain pens and restore old leather bags and cases sometimes I make new briefcases and bags. I will be making a wooden end grain block for punching and stamping and already have a granite slab which I intend to fit into the work bench. @kgg Thanks your suggestion will work for me I would like to have a rise and fall work bench but I don't think it is possible. I live in a built up area so the mobile options are not possible without a large crane to lift them over the houses I think my neighbours might object to a shipping container. I fully intend to make the work shop as secure as possible. Thanks Michael

Hi Everyone I am planning to build a small work shop in my garden to get my leatherwork out of our house, I currently have a granite slab 16 in x 30 in and a 2ft x 3ft piece of plywood that I rest on a couple of boxes to work on. My garden workshop will be almost 12ft x 8ft ( we are metric in England) and have some crazy planning laws. I have made some simple drawings to help with the timber order. Where I am looking for help is with the work benches my current thinking is to have a large full width cutting bench across the bottom and two benches up the long sides one for leather work the other for wood and other work. I am not sure of the height for the leather working side as well as the width so if anyone has any advice I would appreciate it

Thanks Karina I appreciate you help

@jpounders95 Thanks for the suggestions as @dikman said I am done with banging my head against a brick wall I would really like plug and play where possible a little assembly is ok. I have done some research on line and have a couple of specifications I would like the first being a heated bed and the second is the ability to use A B S along with other filaments. @veedub3 your recommendation looks perfect I would like to make single use stamps and maybe the odd mould for leather in your experience is that possible with this printer. Thanks everyone Michael

Hi I am looking for an entry level 3D printer for making small items such as a one off stamp or small mould for leather work. thanks in advance

I make a similar style of product although mine are for large fountain pens. I had the same issue that you have at an early stage bringing the leather and kydex together my solution was to wrap the kydex in suede I was also concerned that contact with the Kydex could cause the tread to fray. 20180125_161847 by my0771, on Flickr This is my formed Kydex Trimmed 20180125_162630 by my0771, on Flickr Then wrapped in suede. IMG_20180125_163841_245 by my0771, on Flickr Finally I add the outer cover and stitch through the leather front panel and the two pieces of suede and into the back panel which is also covered in suede with the kydex inside the edges . IMG_20180125_223756_521 by my0771, on Flickr I make these cases in various sizes. 20170927_091703[1] by my0771, on Flickr I hope my experiences help you.

I don't make shoes I don't have that skill set. I was recently asked to make a Fountain pen case for some really large pens inspired by a pair of English brogue shoes. This is what I came up with. 2018-04-22_09-22-19 by my0771, on Flickr I left it with a mat effect burnishing and polishing will bring it to your desired finish. I used Fiebings Antique finish which I applied with a dauber and wiped off with dry kitchen towel. If it remained dark in an area I wanted light I rubbed it with a wet towel. Air brushing dark dye over a lighter finish would give a similar effect.

Your Instagram is great. If you don't mind me saying your website could do with some updates especially in the sale section. I would like a brochure if you have one.

I posted more information on this thread The Janik unit is made by Regard and I believe it will work with their end pieces as you will see from the longer post I made my own end pieces from solid brass which I drilled and tapped holes to accept the Janik end pieces which worked out at less than £10 each. I think it works well if you can shape the brass and drill and tap the holes it is quite easy to make the end pieces. I have to be honest the type of work I have been doing lately it has not been used much I have an old Dixons screw crease that I use for belts.

I share your pain I also struggle with skiving. One thing I found useful was to strop both sides of my knife, I used to strop only the front of the blade after sharpening and paid very little attention to the back of my blade. Now that the back of my blade is polished by stropping it slides easily over the leather. Unfortunately I am still useless at skiving but at least I can no longer blame my knives.

Hi Dunluce I have been using 532 I have four or five reels and find they all have a similar issue. It might be partly my fault in that I don't like joints so I tend to work with long pieces of thread. Mando are nice people who sell to leather workers at a reasonable price as listed above. The best way to contact them is via email mando.paris@wanadoo.fr I dealt with José who was most helpful. Michael

Hi Geoff I have to be honest it is not my favourite thread, In use I find it coils up on itself and appears to fray and snap easily. Mando were very efficient to deal with but only accept bank transfer which costs extra. Michael

I usually use wooden moulds for forming leather so don't have any experience of printed ones. if you are concerned about strength why not add a top to the upper part. Or make them stackable and add the top part to the base of the second one to sit on top. I hope that makes sense the first base will be flat the second one will have the top of the first as part of its base. I used a similar style of handcuffs during my service the press stud fastener had a longer tab after the stud to make it quick release, generally when you need handcuffs you need them quickly.

I have some disability in my right hand/arm I have had a standard arbour press adapted with holes to allow pricking irons and stamping tools to be inserted and held with grub screws. Not quite what the op had in mind but it might help others with similar issues.

I wanted to thread the end of the inner bar so I could make as many ends as I want, Unfortunately my cheap set of dies does not have any adjustment it has a tapered start but the inner bar is quite hard. So in the end I gave up and made it a push fit. In the picture you can see the failed version and the push fit attached piece. 20170807_111831[1] by my0771, on Flickr This is a combination end piece it has a flat side for smoothing two edges for making lines and a curved surface for edges. 20170808_073046[1] by my0771, on Flickr 20170808_073510[1] by my0771, on Flickr I still need to practice with heated edges everything was done on the lowest 6 volt setting.

I did train as a metal worker but that was a long time ago I don't have the tools other than basic hand tools and a soldering iron. All of the brass work was done with a jewellers hand saw (like a mini hack saw) and a set of files. 20170804_112631[1] by my0771, on Flickr I ordered two new end pieces one with a 4 mm ball point and one with a 3mm point. as you can see I have shaped three pieces of brass a small and a way too large and hopefully one that is just right. my original plan is to cut a slot in the 4 mm end piece slotting the brass piece in there with a tight fit and drilling through and either using a very small nut and bolt or using brass rod to rivet it in place. For the solid brass end I had planned to thread and then tap a hole in the brass not too sure about this as I don't have any taps or dies and I would like others to be able to follow should they wish. I am going to look at heat resistant adhesives for metal Costs so far two points in postage £15.76 brass £3.50 labour two hours.. I have eased the coiled wire back a little on the 3 mm and 4 mm points to expose more of the round inner bar to allow fitting.