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About Landcruzer94

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  • Location
    United States

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Watch bands
  • Interested in learning about
    Finish techniques
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  1. Acquired a Yamata 810 machine local to me, sold by a sewing machine repair man and seems pretty well sorted. I researched this machine for a little while and never came across a casting like this, and it even has an integrated bobbin winder. The peculiar thing I wanted to ask about was the stitch length wheel. It seems to only go up to "4", but has an unmarked zone where every other machine I've seen has additional range. Tuning it to this area seems to be okay, and it can still sew, but want to make sure I wouldn't cause any damage. Am I good using this range, as long as the reverse bar has more room to move? Second, for sewing leather I definitely need a speed reducer. I'm not seeing much space to work with under the table, how would one route the pulley? Lastly, any good part resources one would recommend? I have my eye on a rubber roller but wasn't sure if there were any other cool accessories that are worth looking at. Thanks!
  2. This might be the trick! I'll try it out this weekend and report back. Thank you so much!
  3. Is it okay to bump threads around here? I appreciate any insight you can provide!
  4. Hey all, I have a situation that's been driving me batty in my pursuit of tuning up my CB3200. Needle timing is (I feel) pretty much spot on, but in terms of inner foot position I'm not able to get it quite right. What I'm reading is that the inner presser foot should be making contact with the throat plate just as the needle is meeting that plane. When I adjust the presser foot balance to where that happens I get binding in the position noted in yellow as the needle approaches top dead center. I'm never under power when I'm testing this, but just turning the wheel to that position stops the machine cold. Now I can adjust it so it barely clears that binding, but as someone else has complained in the past The only way I can adjust for perfect forward/backward movement places the presser foot in contact with the feed dog about 1/2" or so before the needle pierces the leather. (Pic attached) Where am I going wrong here? Binding linkages shot This is inner foot in relation to the needle
  5. I ended up fixing the issue and it was related to the needle size. I was under the impression that 23 was an okay size to use for 207 thread? I'll try another needle to check but my problems disappeared when I went to a 25.
  6. I have an issue with my machine that's puzzling me and maybe it's a simple solution. This past weekend I followed Uwe's YouTube guide on hook timing for my cb3200 and completed it to what I feel is a very good standard. what I noticed in the initial assessment was the needle was dropping almost 3/8in lower than necessary and the shuttle hook was also way advanced. The only step I wasn't able to follow was the shuttles hook position at 30* and where the tip should be in relation to the needle, I don't have the same adjustment method as noted on the 4500. It looked so close I didn't bother it. Everything looks great and sewed wonderfully with the thread I had loaded at the beginning: 207 top/bottom with a 25 needle. I then decided to load 138 thread along with a matching needle. I have never used 138 on this machine, so at first I didn't touch the thread tension. First few stitches went okay, but then the hook started missing the top thread consistently. I looked closer and it seems that a loop wasn't forming on the needle upstroke. Anyways, figured it had something to do with tension and tried to dial it down and never quite got it right. Back to 207, but I put in a size 23 needle because I realized the 25 might be a little big... Here's where things got weird now with the 207... the thread itself is now twisting as its going down the needle, making a loop on the upstroke that has an overlapping twist and causing a bunch of drama as it goes around the shuttle. At this point I need to go back to square one, so I loosened the lower bobbin tension a slight amount and went to full loose on both tension springs up top. At that setting I'm now getting frays on the top thread near the needle. I dont believe it's the timing adjustment that caused it because of how well it was sewing before I messed with the thread, but I can't seem to get back to what it was doing before. Any thoughts?
  7. Thanks, I'll play with thinners to see what happens I get it, some people just dont want to wait for the natural process to carry out. Lol I get it, and have done so in the past. I'm limited to what I can find, so I need a repeatable process with the other leathers that I have
  8. Hi all. Been lurking for a while and making watch straps among other things for about four years now... the one thing that has seemed impossible to me is giving my straps the vintage look I see other makers doing The dried, cracking surface texture The darker edges with fading inner body The stains, etc. Perfectly placed. I've tried all kinds/types of leather, scuffing them, sanding them, etc. And the oils/finish in the leather quickly bounces back to what I started with...with minimal change. I dont think this is vintage to start with, as the ammo straps everybody is crazy for command much higher prices. Any ideas? Example of what I'm going for...
  9. Seeing the comment below I'll look into cutting the foot, thanks! The divider trick is genius, I'll try it out! Thank you!
  10. Thanks, I've watched this video before and it's somewhat helpful. I do like the center presser foot that he has on that machine because you have a lot of visibility of where the needle is heading, but cannot seem to find one. Mine has a significant amount of metal in the front like this one. Any idea where to find one or have people modified theirs?
  11. Thanks for the tip, I'll keep at it Not generally, the overall thickness ends up being somewhere between 7-10oz and it's firm enough to resist doing that.
  12. This is pretty much what I'm referring to. As you can see my stitches end up either too short, too long, or just plain not-straight. I'm a little bit better, but I hate to throw away perfectly good straps because of stupid errors.
  13. Good Morning All, I've been using a CB3200 for a few months now, sewing a few things and mainly getting used to how the machine is used, but I'm still having small issues with making accurate stitches when it comes to making right angles and ending stitch runs. I mainly use the machine for watch straps, so I'll start at one corner (let's say for the longer part of the strap) and with a roller guide stitch the three main sides (left side, tip, right side) just fine. When it comes to stopping exactly where I would need to make a right angle I always seem to run into a pickle where the last stitch is always shorter than the rest, ruining the aesthetics (to me at least) of the strap. once I make my right angle I continue at my regular stitch length and stitch maybe 5/8" and run into the same pickle again, sometimes I even over/undershoot the hole by just enough that it ruins the whole piece. What I'm finding difficult is judging where the needle will hit next, and planning far enough ahead to make sure this doesn't happen. Part of this difficulty is the center presser foot is bulky and tough to see exactly where it will hit. I've been trying to lift the presser foot just as the needle is reaching the leather to see where it's hitting, but it's letting off a little tension. I also try to look at the outer foot to see where it's hitting the leather in anticipation of where the next stitch is going to be, but still doesn't look 100%. Are there any tips out there that could help? Thanks! I'll post a few shots shortly of what I'm referencing. Thanks!
  14. For black and browns I'm using Tandys professional edge kote and for other colors I've been using Fenice.
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