kellyblues

Got my leather yesterday! It's nice stuff. The split is very even. The fibers on the back side are really tight. And boy is it dry... and it takes dye really well and even. I will be locking myself inside all weekend now. Haha

The paasche VL is the one I've been eyeballing. Wanting a double action and range of use it looks like the best bang for the buck. And fading is a must. Thanks for the detailed response. I have zero complaints about my old HF airbrush. I think I paid like $15 for it probably 10 years ago. For the money ya can't beat it really. The only drawback is it's never had much control. But for 15 bucks I got used to it. I've actually looked at HF's " deluxe " model, wooooohooo. It's $25 Hahaha.

I will soon be replacing my air brush ( old harbor fright ) with a new one and wondering what brand / model others are using. Thanks in advance for your time

Still dig it. Lol

That's cool! He definitely has a one of a kind.

I've made lots of good stuff with good ole Tandy leather. I have a project that I really want to nail, really make it pop. So I called W &C and got some samples. I had a hoot with those pieces. The workability alone blew me away. I noticed how light the veg tan is, and that's what I ordered. Looks like it will dye well.

Well to date all I've used is the cheapest stuff I could find at Tandy so I'm looking forward to getting this.

I just placed my first order with W&C. I'm super excited and can't wait to work with it. Off to the hibernation chamber so the wait doesn't drive me nuts.

I had that same thought

+1. Stick to what you set up and it's easy.

Okay, I'm glad someone here is looking at that. I was gonna make myself drive to get it. That isn't a machine to let pass you by. Haven't seen one in a good number of years.

Only part I can make out for sure is it was made by a company in Michigan. Any info out there?

I've been a professional mechanic all of my adult life. It's taken a toll on my hands. And my elbows,kness , back and shoulders. If I have a large project to tool I do it in stages. I've gotten pretty good at covering parts with saran wrap and letting my hands rest.

First thing I ever tooled was when I took a class several years ago with Jim Linnell during the IFLOG show in Indianapolis. I had made small pouches and such for years before I got into tooling. This is my very first tooling in my life.

It looks like a clone of a juki ddl 5550 or similar. Needle feed but no walking foot. Also is likely to be designed for high speed stitching. That's what I'm seeing. Hopefully one of the regular SMG's on the board will chime in. I have 3-4 DDL-5550 automatics and 2 manuals. The heads look almost identical to that.

All good

Osborne's are sold. The craftool is still available.

Totally awesome! That young lady will never forget that. And she did a really nice job too!

The valley in a 4 cycle, fossil fuel, internal combustion gasoline engine is the area below the intake manifold b, between the cylinder heads and encompass the castings for both the camshaft bushings and the valve lifters. You would lose that bet sir. That is precisely where it cracked. Now, I'm not going to pull the intake manifold and the valley pan off that engine just to take pictures. I've seen external cracks near coolant passages JB'd and lasted the life there after of the vehicle. I personally wouldn't do that, but I've seen it done. I've also seen someone JB a harmonic balancer on the crankshaft of a 355 Buick engine and drove it that way for at least 10 years that I know of like that. Being a Master ASE Certified Automotive technician , home and industrial sewing machine mechanic, industrial machine mechanic for the last 20+ years I've seen many different ways to achieve the same goal. If the goal is functional, it's a one hour job. If the goal is reconditioned, it's a job of many hours. Stick weld,gas weld, bracket, JB weld, bracket and JB weld will all achieve functionality. If this was let's say a 1880 Singer model 12 with gold shell paint and a hundred small pieces of MOP inlay all done by artisans I would ( and have) weld it. Well worth every last minute it would take. Or the one of a kind Faudels parlor machine that I have for that matter. This is a machine that Singer made hundreds of thousands of if not millions. Heck I probably have 10 of them in my storage container. I don't buy them anymore unless they are dirt cheap. This machine is the 66 of the industrial machines. The cost of time to weld it and refinish the bed if needed along with the necessary adjustments would replace it twice. I've shared my opinion and some of the experience it's based on. Over and out.

Osborne's are sold pending funds.

+1

I have a 1970 Ford 390FE that has a JB'd crack in the valley. That was done , oh..... About 17 years ago.....Still holding as strong as the day it cured. I had planned on pulling that engine when the JB gave up and weld it but it's still holding strong. And about 30-40 sewing machines that have come to me with a small pieces ( non visible) busted off here and there over the last 20 years , and various other repairs .....JB weld in this country works quite well if the proper cleaning and prep work is carried out. Yes welding is the best permanent repair. But the over all time it will take could purchase 5 more of those heads. They aren't rare by any means. Unless of course someone has that much free time. If you decide to weld it let me know and I will email you a copy of the Singer service manual for that machine. One thing I forgot to mention. If you weld it make sure you have a heat sink source on the bed of the machine. The lacquer coating known as " Japanning" can ignite . At a minimum it will likely bubble. Making a bracket is the simplest long term functional repair. Just depends on how much time you are willing to spend on it.

Take it from someone who has handled a good bit of machines with very similar issues. Your best bet it to JB Weld it. I can weld cast,or braze it. You cause more problems than you are trying to fix by heating that machine up enough to braze or weld it. Oil and grease that's been in places for years will run out and the machine will be very sloppy. You will spend a stupid amount of time adjusting everything. And that thread is proprietary. I have all of the singer taps and dies though I don't loan them out. JB it or make a bracket and move on.

I believe most if not all Supremes are clones. As far as clones go they aren't that bad. I've worked on several of them. There's a place not far from me I do the service and repair for when needed that has a Supreme clone of a Consew 227 & 206rb. They have had for for a few years now and haven't had any major issue that they didn't cause themselves. I replaced the safety clutch on one them a while back due to forcing the handweel when it jammed too many times because of being to cheap to replace the needle when they should have. ........ Some pictures would be very helpful.

An easy give away is the location of the tension assembly. If it's on the faceplate,it's a 15 series. If it's on the side of the head,it's a 66. That actually isn't a bad find even though as mentioned Singer made millions of them. They did not however make millions of those parlor cabinets. The electronic motor was added to that machine. The bolting boss on the rear of the machine was added to the casting LONG before electricity was common. If you have access to this machine look inside the cabinet for the treadle components. That would be the foot peadle you press to run the machine. And an additional note. That's a 66-1. I know this by the position of the presser foot attachment screw. It's to the rear,away from the operator. They changed that design and started making them where the screw was to the left where the operator had better access. Those are 66-2. And,when 66-1's were taken in for service the needle bar was replaced at no charge. It's getting harder to find original 66-1's these days but they are still out there. I've probably got 15-20 of them with verious patterns on them.