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Ogoki

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Posts posted by Ogoki

  1. Posted · Edited by Ogoki · Report reply

    Hello all,

    I am looking for a twin-needle chainstitch machine for felling the seat and yokes of jeans, and I found an old Union Special 35800AX locally.  The manual lists it for medium to heavy duty work, 6.5oz to 8oz fabric.  This is much lighter than the 15oz material that I will be using, but most of these old machines were not made for the heavier denim that we are using these days, and they generally work fine.  And "extra-heavy" folders seem to be available.

    I know that the 35800B* version with a puller is preferable, but does anybody know from experience (@gottaknow?) how appropriate/inappropriate this particular machine will be?  I know that some boutique Japanese manufacturers use the 35800 without a puller, which would imply a 35800A* machine, but they tend to be a little secretive about their machines (pardon the generalization).

    Thanks for any info.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    On 6/1/2018 at 3:55 PM, jimi said:

    :16: with constabulary. almost 100% sure this is for releasing the tension on the thread when the foot is lifted up, then you can pull your work away and not bend the needle.  

    Yes, there is no question about that.  I'm interested in the statement in the linked video that claims that as the arm to the left of the tension release lever descends, it should contact the lever momentarily, which will in turn press against the tension release pin and push the discs apart (again, just for a split second).  The original lever from this machine (pictured in my hand) is worn in such a way that would support this claim, which has simply made me curious...

    On 6/1/2018 at 6:59 PM, Bert51 said:

    Your machine appears similar to my 31K47 and it should have a gap like you have. I do not know the size of the gap, but the bloke who used my machine told me he made it bigger so he could turn corners easier with out losing tension.

    Stuart.

    This machine is OK in that regard.  Lifting with the knee lifter as one would do to pivot around a corner doesn't quite release tension.  It is the gap on the left of the tension release arm that interests me (I assume you are referring to the gap between the lever and the pin on the right).

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for the responses, guys.  I too was a little skeptical of this "feature."

    @Ken Nelson - This machine doesn't skip stitches either.  However, judging by the depth of the groove worn into the tension release lever, it likely would have been releasing the thread tension momentarily on every stroke.

    If anybody with a 31- or a 44- would like to pop the cover and verify whether or not the tension lever is pressed by that arm as it passes (or whether there is a gap, as in my attached picture), it would be much appreciated.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    The machine in question is actually a more obscure 44-79, but the mechanism is same.

    I was watching this video on setting up the 31-15, and realized that the tension release lever is actually (or at least according to this video) supposed to release the upper thread tension momentarily as the needle is descending (essentially as the eye of the needle passes through the fabric):
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1QX4nL65L0

    The lever on my 44-79 has a groove worn into it, and it is no longer making contact with the arm that should press against it.  So, I pulled the lever from my 96K, but despite being the same part (according to the parts books and the numbers punched on both parts), it is a little thinner and the arm doesn’t contact it either.

    So, before I have somebody braze these levers to build up that area, I am wondering whether this feature is critical for stitch formation.  What purpose does it serve?  I don't think that any of my other machines have this feature, although they are all rotary hook machines; is it particular to oscillating hook machines?

    Thanks for any responses.

    44-79 Tension Lever Gap.jpg

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Hi all,

    I'm looking at picking up an old 44--79, which seems to be something of a stubby 31-15 with a walking foot (originally intended for light to medium leather gloves).  The manual lists it as taking 16x99 needles up to size 25.  16x99 seems to be unavailable (at least in large sizes), but 29x3 patcher needles are of the same diameter, albeit about a millimetre and a half longer.  Is there any foreseeable reason they wouldn't work with a needle bar adjustment?

    http://ismacs.net/needle_and_shank/needle-cross-reference-chart-round-shank.html

    Also, the recommendation of size 25 needles gives me some idea as to maximum thread weight, but does anybody have any firsthand experience with the thread limitations of this machine?

    Any other general comments...?  Thanks.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    I asked this recently, as I was wondering about the limitations of my little Singer 95K43, whose thread capabilities were more limited than the domestic machine that I keep around for zig-zag purposes.  I ended up adding some clearance to the slot in the rotary hook through which the needle and thread pass.  I would have also opened up the needle hole in the throat plate, but it was already a "heavy duty" part with a bigger hole.  Anyhow, the machine now sews comfortably with tex 120 (cotton/poly) thread (69 was about the limit initially), and I imagine I could squeeze a hair more out of it...

    The little Singer is a horizontal axis machine, whereas yours is a vertical axis...  I haven't yet tried to add clearance to one of my vertical axis machines, but I have a pretty good idea as to where I would start...

    Of course, these modifications won't increase the feed/punching/materials handling capabilities of a machine, but might be useful if all you want to do is run heavier thread... assuming the parts you modify are readily available and relatively inexpensive...

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for the info, Wiz.  To be honest, I'm basically looking for something that would serve as a poor man's Union Lockstitch.  I have been wondering how Wesco runs such thick thread on the uppers of their boots (looks like CB554, the same as the outsole thread we all use), and finally realized it is a Union Lockstitch.  Having been hit in the face by broken needles and awls off a Rapid E, the idea of that machine really excites me, but I think that something with a roller would serve me better.  And I would like to be able to use it for heavy-thread accents on denim (#0 cotton thread), so a UL might be a little ridiculous in that case...

    Will an Adler 105 handle #277 thread?

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Hi guys,

    Which vintage needle-feed cylinder arm machines can handle heavy thread - ideally up to #346.  I assume the Adler 105 would do the trick.  Which other machines should I keep an eye out for?  Would any of the Consew 22x variants do the trick?  I would like to be able to put a roller foot on it for boot work once in a while (for heavy-thread accents on the uppers), so I prefer needle feed to walking-foot, and I am only interested in vintage "junk." ;)

    Thanks for any suggestions.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    7 hours ago, Vinculus said:

    I'll look into that. One of the guys at the Viberg boot factory is also going to let me know what they use. It looks like a semi-beefy twisted thread of some kind with a matte finish, so it can't be nylon, I think.

    Actually, it doesn't look shiny once stitched.  I would be surprised if Viberg used anything else, but let us know.

    I can't imagine paying $4000-6000 for an outsole stitcher.  Working Landis stitchers typically go for 600-700 dollars around here.  One sold for 300 recently.  Rapid Es aren't as common, so maybe a little more...

  20. Posted · Edited by Ogoki · Report reply

    Also curious as to how this is going, as I did some work on a 3-needle vamper a few years back.  "Vamping" refers to stitching the vamp (front/toe pattern piece) to the quarters (exactly as demonstrated in the overly dramatic RW video).  I don't know about stitching through 3/4" of material, but they do have a very distinct, punchy, knocking character to their sound/operation, in my experience....

    EDIT:  Missed the last few posts before posting...  I probably have a manual around if nobody else comes through...

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for the responses.  Forget that I mentioned denim. ;)  I am after a drop- or needle-feed machine (not walking-foot) that will handle very heavy cotton thread (at least #6), and has a max. stitch length of at least 5mm.  I am wondering whether this "Mason" fits the bill... probably not...  A -555 or an -8700 likely won't do.  Maybe a -553 (can anybody confirm that it can handle heavier thread?) or an -8700H...

    Thanks again.

  24. Posted · Edited by Ogoki · Report reply

    Hi all,

    I am looking at what I think is a relabelled Juki.  Please see the attached pic.  Mason is a local operation, which presumably put its badges on the machine.  The seller has told me that the only numbers she can find are DDS500 9338.  I can't find any info on a "DDS" series, but does it look like a typical DDL?  If so, is there any way to tell whether it's a -552, -553, or -555?  And is there any difference between those three in terms of thread capabilities?  I notice that the manuals lists the -553 as taking needles up to #22 (vs. #18 for the others), so I assume it can handle heavier thread, but is this really the case?  I am looking for a machine to replace my little 95K43 - one that can handle heavy cotton thread, the heavier the better.  And what would one pay for a machine like this?

    Thanks in advance!

    EDIT:  I just noticed in the manual that only the -555 has reverse.  Does this look like a DDL-555 then?

    Juki DDS 500.jpg

  25. Posted · Edited by Ogoki · Report reply

    You don't need a clutch motor assembly, just a motor; and a 1/3hp~1/2hp motor should be small and inexpensive.  There is a clutch assembly under the tray on the left hand side.  One belt runs from the motor to the clutch, and the other from the clutch to the flywheel pulley.  It's different from a typical industrial sewing machine setup.

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