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Ole South

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About Ole South

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Central Fla
  • Interests
    Leather, Wood, Metal

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    An apprentice without a master
  • Interested in learning about
    improving

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  1. 6 3/8" x 9" (in plastic w/fused seams) 161mm x 225mm Front keeper 6 3/8" x 4" Back keeper 6 3/8" x 3 3/4" You will (of course) have to adjust these dimensions by your stitch allowance and leather thickness.
  2. Hmmm... only allowed ONE upload? That pix is only 27.5kb??!!??
  3. Feed motion ring: Left to right … 29K-60 original, Kungpeng FMR assembled, Roller assembly kit(?), Bare FMR as shipped. Note the difference in length of the two Kungpeng castings. More to come
  4. Yep, appears to be 3/32" round pin with the sides filed flat to accept the spring slot. Use a piece of brass rod as a replacement slightly longer than needed, strike the replacement pin sharply to blind rivet set it and dress with a file. The pin sits about 1/8" proud.
  5. (@Constabulary) Harris finally retired, Pilgrim is no more... I think Wes(?) at Shoe Systems Plus picked up a lot of Pilgrim inventory, unfortunately he told me most of the patcher inventory went to metal recycler. What a loss.
  6. Actually, an established cobbler should(might) have a Landis or McKay insole stitcher BUT.... In most cases it will probably be a chainstitch rather than a lockstitch (insoles need "stretch" a bit, chainstitch allows this, lockstitch inhibits. There is, I believe, a Landis insole stitcher that is lockstitch but not as common as McKay style. Chainstitcher probably wouldn't work in your project as the "loops" are your top stitch, inline stitches will be inside your case. Its a single needle(awl), single thread machine. The horn on my McKay is approximately 1/2-5/8" wide. Thread is usually linen (black or white) but 403wt poly might work for short runs.
  7. Without pictures it is hard to help but... 1.Compare broken lever profile and thickness with your replacement part, often some grinding/filing/polishing is necessary. 2. Clean receiver area in needle bar driving lever. Remove gunk and foreign objects trapped in there. 3. Broken pin: file broken pin top flat (even if you have to remove a little of the casting) center punch the middle of the old pin and carefully drill out broken piece. You should feel when the drill bit bottoms. Replace pin with brass rod (available at most hobbyshops) I'll check drill bit and rod diameter on my 29-4 (cir1915) later today. I'm thinking 1/16-3/32.
  8. HONEYSEW HOOK+BOBBIN CASE - THICK SHAFT 240558 10655 For SINGER 111W155 CONSEW 224 225 226 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LCWD4QG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_SkqAEb19FVC86 This is proper Hirose hook for 111w155, I just replaced one earlier this month... First set screw (turning hook cw, handwheel toward you) goes into notch. Mine had a rounded set screw and a ball bearing instead of a pointed set screw.
  9. (Full disclosure: I know parts for both models' are pretty much discontinued for the most part but this was a foray into what may or may not work ) I just completed partial rebuild of each model, 29-4 circa 1915 and Adler 30-1 circa "who knows"(black paint/cast iron stand, no decals) feed motion area and thought I'd pass on what I found. Stitch length was far from optimal but little or no play in either of the machines' Driving Lever(s) so I felt driver cam was within functional specs. I noticed Kunpeng Sewing(CKPSMS) sells both a Feed Motion Ring (simanco 82053) and Bell Crank Lever (82167) on E-bay. Prices were reasonable so I bought 2 Feed Motion Rings and Bell Crank Levers to see if they would work. Feed Motion Ring The Feed Motion Rings came without cam follower rollers (they now sell them as a set) so I contacted CKPSMS outlining the issue but got no response. A couple of months later I see the roller and stud assembly (ckpsms #1816) listed at a disposable price so I purchased two. These rollers are clearly marked as being 10mm dia O.D., the description and pictures of the assembly are completely accurate. Being lazy, (I prefer to think of this as "Time Efficiency" but....) I mic'd the roller (rather than the Feed Motion Cam Wheel race the roller rides in) from a well-worn 29K-60 sixty-something year old original Feed Motion Ring I'd previously replaced at 9.79mm O.D. thinking 2.0+mm wear was expectable. It's not... at least not for the 29-4 or 30-1. Both races mic out at 9.79-9.80mm. If anyone has a 29K Feed Motion Cam Wheel (p/n 82149) in good shape I'd appreciate the actual race width measurement at the narrowest part for comparison. I'm guessing the original Simanco roller was probably 25/64" O.D. (ish… mebbe??). The problem doesn't end there; the replacement roller stud has a cir-clip retaining ring and receiver machined into it extending the roller shaft by about 1.5mm. This doesn't allow the assembled FMR to seat into head casting. The Simanco FMR's I've seen have either a free floating roller or the stud is peened almost flush to capture the roller. Easy enough to remedy with a grinder once a properly sized roller is procured but the mounting nut on the other side may also have to be ground flush. I had a FMR from another vendor (Pilgrim or Shoe System Plus probably) that I ended up using in the 29-4. The Adler retained its original FMR. (a new Bell Crank Lever removed all apparent slop) Bell Crank Lever The BCL worked in the 29-4 but bound the needle bar in the Adler as it returned. A lot of creative grinding/polishing later and a couple screw fabrications* and the Adler too had longer stitch lengths. Basic mod was to remove the gore (sloping metal casting) transitioning from the lever bar to the ring making it a clean right (90 deg) angle and thinning the outer wall of the lever's needle bar guide ring to allow full angular motion. Net-net... I now have 2 new Feed Motion Ring and roller assy's (un-usable) languishing in my spare parts bin and a spare Bell Crank Lever should I ever need them *in my case the pivot screws from the worn Adler BCL were a different thread than the Kunpeng which appear to be 6-40 ncf.
  10. Raising the presser foot should release the upper tension disks... rotating the hand wheel should allow the upper thread to clear the bobbin mechanism (try rocking the hand wheel backwards and forwards as you pull the material free). If that doesn't free both threads then double check the adjustments mentioned. Multiple threads(cut) coming out of the feed dog in your picture, indicates upper thread is still captured by bobbin assembly i.e. shouldn't be more than one thread there (bobbin thread). I will hook the upper thread with an index finger where the thread rises above the tension disks and lash spring and pull some slack after lifting presser foot if top tension is tight so not to stress the workpiece. That's the correct threading shown tho most don't use it. And yes... it will increase upper tension by design. The Singer 111 has that pin on the opposite side of the mechanism and is supposed to be threaded accordingly. The machines will still work if you don't. But it does appear you may have missed a guide out of frame prior to the tension assembly. There is vertical wear indications on the first chrome guide feeding the tension disks and the thread is coming in at a different angle... your thread appears to be riding the casting even tho there is no scuffing of the paint. This doesn't affect or cause your problem but...
  11. (A very late response, sorry) I've never thought about trying to use a McKay for side wall stitching but I'll check mine. The biggest problem will be the material advance mechanism... a single pawl that digs into the material and pushes it forward (toward the awl) that likes a pre-cut channel. It is a chain Stitcher but that's not a bad thing in this case. Chain stitch has way more stretch than a lockstitch does and would allow the sidewalls to flex better but will unravel if not tied off or glued correctly and the wrong loose thread is pulled. If you notice, this machine in the video, does NOT pull the lockstitch very tight... you can reduce the size of the shoe by 1/4-1/2 an American Size that way(yeah, I've done that hand-stitching using a saddle stitch :/ ) And yes, a Jerk Awl IS what I usually use to sidewall stitch the toe box if needed. You can go pretty quickly once you get the hang of it. A Speedy Stitcher isn't very useful in the dark confines of a shoe upper. Btw... a McKay (or Champion) model 77(Insole stitcher) and it's ilk will not work inside a boot due to its horn limitations... thus the need for an Outsole (welt stitcher) like the Landis K machines. The McKay is far simpler a machine.
  12. Make a prototype without wet forming and test. If it's too stiff, skive where you want it to bend a bit thinner the width of the flap.
  13. I'm wondering if a Landis K stitcher could be modified to do this now the Protos is no longer made? The standard welt guide on the K-12 is interchangeable but I've never seen a box stitching attachment. Has anyone played around with one of them?
  14. If you wet formed the flap and it has any thickness (greater than 3-4oz or so) or even worse a lined flap... then you create an internal vs external diameter differential*. Meaning the inside length is shorter than the outside length and when you straighten the flap, the excess dimension HAS to go somewhere... so the long side lifts into a wrinkle or wave. The converse applies if you DON'T "form the arc" when gluing a lining to a thicker top piece or if you don't stretch (wet form) the piece. In this case, both sides have equal length and if one won't stretch then you'll get wrinkles when the flap is closed (on the inside) due to the flesh side (or lining) lacking the ability to compress enough to compensate for the topside's resistance to stretching. Work around? Find the happy medium about mid-way of the bend when making the flap if you're using a lining or don't wet form the fold completely closed or choose materials that have the needed ability to stretch and/or compress. The stretch vs compressibility (compression ratio) of the material(s) you're using is the primary factor in this equation. Remember when wet forming leather you are removing some or all of the compression ratio of a piece of leather and the thicker the piece the greater the I.D. vs the O.D. (Inside Dimension vs OUTside dimension) regardless. This is also why you may have seen posts on the forums about calculating gusset length of a bag. Basically the same issue... but exaggerated because not only are you dealing with material thickness (gusset, belly and back) but also how much of a seam allowance is allocated for the bag and the stretch/compression of each piece. Add in an inside seam (hidden) vs an exposed seam and the calculation gets way more complex. This solution is a bit easier if you've measured long... just cut off the excess. * a good example of this is to grab a inch thick stack of paper from your printer or copier and bring the short edges to each other... the top sheets will be way shorter than the inner-most sheets even though they are the same length when laying flat. Does this make sense?
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