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Ole South

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About Ole South

  • Rank
    Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Central Fla
  • Interests
    Leather, Wood, Metal

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    An apprentice without a master
  • Interested in learning about
    improving

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  1. I'd suggest a Singer 15-91 with a VINTAGE button hole attachment. Mine works fine with denim and canvas... you will probably need a Tissue /toilet paper backing for garment leather to prevent the leather from sticking to the bed. I say Vintage because later 1940-60's button hole attachments don't have the "tuning" capabilities that the ones from the 30's and early 40's have*. I've found the 15-91 far more tolerant of thread variances than either the Model 66 or even the 201 i.e. modern "Coat and Button" thread. These are vertical high/straight shank machines. The last I looked the attachments (vintage or newer) ran (eBay) $5-30.00usd. Btw, the 15-91 does have a "drop feed dog" option but the attachments were made to work on machines that did not have that option. They make a very very nice buttonhole ... better than most modern machines with "built-in" button hole functions. And yes.. the Vintage* attachments can do Key-hole as well as larger than 1" button holes. ( I think the largest die I have is 1 1/8") *There are actually about 3 styles Singer Manufactured: ~The really vintage (like #121795) I believe are from the '20s, no die's to change but some folks prefer them due to the fine adjustment capability. Straight holes only. ~The #160506 type has drop in dies and is probably closer to what you want. Look for the black bakelite case with knob on top. The dies vary but you can pick up optional sets with dies(templates) you may need. ~ The beige/grey... don't have the reputation the older units have. Often for slant shank machines from the '50s onward. ** Oh.. this is using a 1.0amp motor similar to the Oem that Singer equipped (.75amp, if I remember correctly) Servo motor not necessary. I'll try a buttonhole in two layers of garment leather when I get a chance..
  2. Free chopsticks... The bamboo ones are the best. Easily formed, they can be specialty molding "spoons" or stylus'. Nicely hard and smooth after filing/sanding and then burnishing on another piece of wood. I've even made double-ended orange peelers from them. Like the above mentioned skewers they are great for filling larger holes in wood or as a quick molley in concrete. You can soak or steam bend them too.
  3. Try one of those White Magic Sponges... DRY! Fiebigs/Weaver/Mr Clean(from grocery store). I've had good luck with these on nubuck, (like Timberline boots)
  4. https://www.cleanersupply.com/Tailoring/Garment-Construction-Notions/Interfacing-Tapes-Adhesives/leather-vinyl-double-sided-bastinghemming-tape-clear/?sku=TPE14 Way cheaper than anywhere else I've found it. Widths up 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 & 1" ZERO odor. Just hammer it down before stitching... it will hold (light duty) without stitch.
  5. No, at near full lift, which is about 7/16" this old guy gets picky (if you're looking for "Perfect") at 3/8" lift he's way more forgiving. New hook, rebuilt upper tension assy, new timing belt, gear lash w/in specs... perhaps someone swapped a part (I found at least one) from a lower w15x machine that I haven't found... who knows *shrug* . "Changing setup" is going from laminated leather strap-work to a single or double layer of canvas.
  6. I experienced something similar while trying to optimize the presser foot lift on a 111w155. (Never quite made it to 1/2inch but that's a different story). Inner and outer foot leverage/pivot off each other to lift. To quick test if this may be an issue in your case: slide a strip of 3-5 oz leather(like a strap)under JUST the outer foot (one side is all you need to test this) and let it "walk higher" than the inner presser foot(which now is the only foot touching your canvas). My w155 is 1954-56 and was a parts machine when I got it. And yes... I have to re-set up the machine when switching from leather to canvas/jeans material. (I have always attributed this to my attempts to maximize/meet original specs)
  7. My McKay 77 seems to like a combination of 30w Synthetic motor oil and sewing machine or mineral oil. I also use it on a seldom used Landis K12 as well. They both set for periods between high usage. The synth oil doesn't seem to get slung(sp? slinged?) around as much. And yes, grease... fill the cups and thinly on the bearing and ride surfaces. I have a lot of HS red synthetic we used in motor generators that doesn't cake up like the old stuff does. It's probably way over-kill but it works and has lasted well for the last 10-20 years. I'm in the SE U.S..... when humidity+dust=rust... grease is a must (and yes I know there are products made for rust prevention but this is a lube question)
  8. Have you checked the basket/hook retaining set screw?
  9. 6 3/8" x 9" (in plastic w/fused seams) 161mm x 225mm Front keeper 6 3/8" x 4" Back keeper 6 3/8" x 3 3/4" You will (of course) have to adjust these dimensions by your stitch allowance and leather thickness.
  10. Hmmm... only allowed ONE upload? That pix is only 27.5kb??!!??
  11. Feed motion ring: Left to right … 29K-60 original, Kungpeng FMR assembled, Roller assembly kit(?), Bare FMR as shipped. Note the difference in length of the two Kungpeng castings. More to come
  12. Yep, appears to be 3/32" round pin with the sides filed flat to accept the spring slot. Use a piece of brass rod as a replacement slightly longer than needed, strike the replacement pin sharply to blind rivet set it and dress with a file. The pin sits about 1/8" proud.
  13. (@Constabulary) Harris finally retired, Pilgrim is no more... I think Wes(?) at Shoe Systems Plus picked up a lot of Pilgrim inventory, unfortunately he told me most of the patcher inventory went to metal recycler. What a loss.
  14. Actually, an established cobbler should(might) have a Landis or McKay insole stitcher BUT.... In most cases it will probably be a chainstitch rather than a lockstitch (insoles need "stretch" a bit, chainstitch allows this, lockstitch inhibits. There is, I believe, a Landis insole stitcher that is lockstitch but not as common as McKay style. Chainstitcher probably wouldn't work in your project as the "loops" are your top stitch, inline stitches will be inside your case. Its a single needle(awl), single thread machine. The horn on my McKay is approximately 1/2-5/8" wide. Thread is usually linen (black or white) but 403wt poly might work for short runs.
  15. Without pictures it is hard to help but... 1.Compare broken lever profile and thickness with your replacement part, often some grinding/filing/polishing is necessary. 2. Clean receiver area in needle bar driving lever. Remove gunk and foreign objects trapped in there. 3. Broken pin: file broken pin top flat (even if you have to remove a little of the casting) center punch the middle of the old pin and carefully drill out broken piece. You should feel when the drill bit bottoms. Replace pin with brass rod (available at most hobbyshops) I'll check drill bit and rod diameter on my 29-4 (cir1915) later today. I'm thinking 1/16-3/32.
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