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Ole South

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Everything posted by Ole South

  1. Iron pipe caps(or nipples) work well (comes in brass, copper & pvc too). They come in various diameters too. If you need more weight, fill with fishing sinkers or BB shot and melt hot glue or paraffin to hold in place and some self-stick cork sheet cut to size, to make the iron ones non-marking. Southland 2 in. Galvanized Malleable Iron Cap Fitting 511-408HN - The Home Depot Kinda pricey to buy new in iron but you may find some in Pop's junk bin. I use copper heat transfer billets cut from old school aluminum computer CPU heatsinks. About 1.25inch diameter and 1.5in tall, weigh from 6-10oz each.
  2. (@Sham)New bell cranks can be made to work (as can motion rings) it just takes a lot of hand-fitting, grinding/filing and polishing. But before all that...what are the stitch issues you are experiencing? I.E.: length? Missed stitches? Looping? (Sorry if you posted symptoms, I didn't see any in this thread) (@MikeRock) I will check 29-4, 29k-30 & Adler 301 (where are you measuring your play?)
  3. Don't know who's looking for a Stop Screw but my 30-1 appears to have a small (compared to a 29k) collared and knurled M5 1.0 (near as I can tell, does that indicate an approximate date?) Stop Screw. Unfortunately, the machine looks to have been stripped and repainted a semi-flat black and no Decals. Cast iron, not wooden treadle.
  4. Check the Needle Bar Lift Lever Follower Roller. My post this thread: Singer 29-3 Presser Foot Won't Rotate - Leather Sewing Machines - Leatherworker.net
  5. I've got one (long arm, don't know if a short arm was made)... done some work on it. Parts other than those in common with 29K are virtually nil. I did find some Adler decals though. It's a much nicer machine than 29- series and I do like it better than most 29k small bobbin machines. Info is in short supply but if anyone has it Constabulary will. In my experience it makes a nicer stitch and sounds and feels like a Mercedes vs a '62 Ford sedan compared to the Singer Patchers. Prolly the only reason I still have mine AND a Singer 29k60 (long arm, big bobbin). (and no... you can't date the machine by Serial Number unfortunately)
  6. If the bell crank and feed motion ring don't entirely fix your stitch length, check for play in the Needle Bar Driving (or Lift) Lever (the thing that looks like a old fashion bridge truss that rocks back and forth as you sew). Specifically, at the handwheel end. Index your way around as you turn the handwheel alternately pushing and pulling on the rear of that lever or have someone press down(flat hand) firmly on that end of the lever as you sew. Too much slop or improved stitch length as pressure is applied indicates you have wear there. I've had machines that the guide follower bearing (or Cam Roller) had seized and worn a flat on that bearing. Conversely, well used machines may have worn down the outer dimension and/or the guide it rides in. You can't do much about the guide but the follower bearing can be replaced. Thickness of the material sewn will also shorten your stitch so test with a folded piece of canvas or denim to reduce your variables.
  7. Kunpeng on Ebay sell both bell crank and feed motion rings pretty cheap. I've used them in both Adler 30-1 and Singer 29-4 machines as well as a 29k60. Be Aware... the parts are not always consistent from one order to the next, don't appear to be matched to anything after they were machined and you will need to do some machining/grinding yourself to make them functional, especially in a 30-1. Basically.... expect to "Hand Fit" the aftermarket parts to your machine. Occasionally you can split the difference by mix n match if you have a surplus of used cranks and rings (i.e. a new aftermarket and an old worn-in part). But don't count on it. Cowboy Bob is spot on.... building up (by brazing) the knob on the crank is usually the best way to go. As you have two parts that have lapped in to each other over many years, even then it will take some hand finishing to make it work. The 29k60 was the best fit out of the box but even then I was matching multiple cranks and rings. It sews like new but feed motion only rotates freely about 280 degrees then stiffens and takes a firm hand to continue to rotate it. Luckily I don't sew too many circles and it's not impossible to turn. Eventually it will either wear-in or I'll tear it all down and figure out what's causing the bind. It all depends on what's the most stubborn... me or the parts. (Too bad Pilgrim isn't around anymore... I heard Harris dumped all his patcher parts in a scrapyard when he liquidated *sigh*)
  8. Oh my goodness, it's a hex set screw in the drive pinion to remove. So didn't expect that. Okay, got the shuttle carrier out. Thread wad under it. Once removed found way more slop in vertical axis. I'm going to try and shim the Carrier Drive Pinion Cog from the underside and perhaps the short rack gear.
  9. How does one remove the shuttle carrier on these Oldies but Goodies? I am not seeing a set-screw like the 29K's have. I've pulled the unit into the shop and am thinking there may be a loop or three of thread under the carrier from a jam lifting it enough to allow the loop to be passed UNDER the carrier rather than just the bobbin/shuttle... especially considering the hook never misses a loop. (and no... no timing hole. I need to check the serial but I think this is a somewhere 1911-1915ish unit) Thanks Cons... that link was wonderfully interesting. Is anyone pursuing a similar path for the 29- series? Doesn't appear many of the parts listed are interchangeable.
  10. Re: Drawing power when idle: One of the early to mid-20th century foot pedals were a stacked carbon disk controlled device, I've often seen these on the 15-91s. So yes, the potential for any cast iron (black) Singer drawing power when unused is present. How they work (ie: WHY they may still pass current when idle) Rather than a rheostat/variable potentiometer or variable transformer, these use a stack (or most often dual stacks) of carbon disks working as a pressure resistor. The individual disks are slightly thicker but about the diameter of a dime. Pressure is offset/removed by a spring (think return to zero pressure) and as you press the foot pedal down the stack of carbon disks are compressed reducing resistance and thus increasing current flow in a fairly linear manner. Since these motors were AC/DC capable (I believe down to about 50vdc) this was an effective and inexpensive control solution for either power source. Effectively, the tighter the disks are pressed together the more juice flows. Even so, there was no insulation or air gap created between the disks when the spring returned the pedal thus eliminating the possibility of Zero current (yes, this is a double negative). Usually over the years the spring(s) would weaken, and dust (both carbon and common household) would build up between the disks reducing its efficiency by not allowing current flow which was the most common reason for replacement. BUT... I have seen these as the apparent precipitating failure* causing the wires exiting the Bakelite power connection (to motor) fry in a rare case or two. Probably why my Grandmother never converted her Red Eye model 66 from treadle to motor. Rewiring these machines is not impossible as most of the Bakelite connectors were threaded brass thru-hole posts with screws forming the connection... better than the "wind around the screw" we see today imo. If you take this path (re-wiring): current flow to a vintage motor is/was, on the average, .75 amp at 120vac. Modern replacement motors are more in the range of 1.0 to 1.5amp @ 120vac. Original wiring was typically cotton or treated linen covered rubber which is prone to cracking and fraying over time. Choose your replacement wire accordingly (I.e. for the motor used) So yeah.... if you are using a vintage machine and foot pedal I'd err on the side of safety and unplug the bugger. (or at least switch off the surge suppressor/extension cord it's plugged into and you never know then a grandkid is gonna explore under the sewing table.) * Burnt open wiring and evidence of severe arcing between the carbon disks. Sometimes holes were blown completely through adjacent carbon disks or they were vaporized all together.
  11. The 15-91's (aka Farmer's Wife's Friend) I've rebuilt are way more forgiving on the thread being used than the 201's and will do better on thin leather and canvas. That being said, on fabric you cannot beat a 201 for consistent stitch quality (Top and Bottom stitch!!), plus 201's are much quieter... no clack-clack. A lot of alteration shops started with 201's back in the day until they could afford a commercial Singer, Juki ect. Zig-zag was accomplished via a mechanical attachment that moved the fabric rather than the needle (same attachment worked/works for most straight shaft black Singers). We still use a 15-91 or 201 with a Singer Buttonholer Attachment (from the 40's) just for the button holes on shirts and garments. More options, better looking buttonholes. 138 sometimes will work (cosmetically) on the 15-91 depending on the material, if bobbin is threaded with 66 or lighter and you use the largest needle you can find that fits, usually this is a size 18, tho 19 would be better. Don't try this with "Coat and Button" thread in the bobbin... the stuff we get these days tagged as Coat and Button runs very inconsistent thru-out the spool. But... these machines are sooo NOT a substitute for an industrial walking foot for general leather work.
  12. Singer 29-4 (circa 1915 I think, treadle driven) suddenly began to loop beneath the shuttle carrier (p/n 8506) rather than sliding under the shuttle/bobbin assy. This leaves long loops on the underside of material and/or jams. Timing appears correct, hook catches loop every stitch, and I've changed hook and bobbin with multiple known good parts. Upper threading is correct and very little rotational and/or vertical slop on the shuttle carrier itself. Upper tension seams correct. I've tried tapping the shuttle drive cog up to reduce any gap between the bottom of the shuttle carrier and the arm cavity, but problem persists. Anyone have advice? The head was rebuilt about a year ago and unit was sewing well with 6-7sti thru most material. I don't see a set-screw to affix drive cog to shuttle carrier drive shaft like the 29k's have so am assuming this is a pressure fit... can someone verify that for me too? Thanks
  13. I'd suggest a Singer 15-91 with a VINTAGE button hole attachment. Mine works fine with denim and canvas... you will probably need a Tissue /toilet paper backing for garment leather to prevent the leather from sticking to the bed. I say Vintage because later 1940-60's button hole attachments don't have the "tuning" capabilities that the ones from the 30's and early 40's have*. I've found the 15-91 far more tolerant of thread variances than either the Model 66 or even the 201 i.e. modern "Coat and Button" thread. These are vertical high/straight shank machines. The last I looked the attachments (vintage or newer) ran (eBay) $5-30.00usd. Btw, the 15-91 does have a "drop feed dog" option but the attachments were made to work on machines that did not have that option. They make a very very nice buttonhole ... better than most modern machines with "built-in" button hole functions. And yes.. the Vintage* attachments can do Key-hole as well as larger than 1" button holes. ( I think the largest die I have is 1 1/8") *There are actually about 3 styles Singer Manufactured: ~The really vintage (like #121795) I believe are from the '20s, no die's to change but some folks prefer them due to the fine adjustment capability. Straight holes only. ~The #160506 type has drop in dies and is probably closer to what you want. Look for the black bakelite case with knob on top. The dies vary but you can pick up optional sets with dies(templates) you may need. ~ The beige/grey... don't have the reputation the older units have. Often for slant shank machines from the '50s onward. ** Oh.. this is using a 1.0amp motor similar to the Oem that Singer equipped (.75amp, if I remember correctly) Servo motor not necessary. I'll try a buttonhole in two layers of garment leather when I get a chance..
  14. Free chopsticks... The bamboo ones are the best. Easily formed, they can be specialty molding "spoons" or stylus'. Nicely hard and smooth after filing/sanding and then burnishing on another piece of wood. I've even made double-ended orange peelers from them. Like the above mentioned skewers they are great for filling larger holes in wood or as a quick molley in concrete. You can soak or steam bend them too.
  15. Try one of those White Magic Sponges... DRY! Fiebigs/Weaver/Mr Clean(from grocery store). I've had good luck with these on nubuck, (like Timberline boots)
  16. https://www.cleanersupply.com/Tailoring/Garment-Construction-Notions/Interfacing-Tapes-Adhesives/leather-vinyl-double-sided-bastinghemming-tape-clear/?sku=TPE14 Way cheaper than anywhere else I've found it. Widths up 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 & 1" ZERO odor. Just hammer it down before stitching... it will hold (light duty) without stitch.
  17. No, at near full lift, which is about 7/16" this old guy gets picky (if you're looking for "Perfect") at 3/8" lift he's way more forgiving. New hook, rebuilt upper tension assy, new timing belt, gear lash w/in specs... perhaps someone swapped a part (I found at least one) from a lower w15x machine that I haven't found... who knows *shrug* . "Changing setup" is going from laminated leather strap-work to a single or double layer of canvas.
  18. I experienced something similar while trying to optimize the presser foot lift on a 111w155. (Never quite made it to 1/2inch but that's a different story). Inner and outer foot leverage/pivot off each other to lift. To quick test if this may be an issue in your case: slide a strip of 3-5 oz leather(like a strap)under JUST the outer foot (one side is all you need to test this) and let it "walk higher" than the inner presser foot(which now is the only foot touching your canvas). My w155 is 1954-56 and was a parts machine when I got it. And yes... I have to re-set up the machine when switching from leather to canvas/jeans material. (I have always attributed this to my attempts to maximize/meet original specs)
  19. My McKay 77 seems to like a combination of 30w Synthetic motor oil and sewing machine or mineral oil. I also use it on a seldom used Landis K12 as well. They both set for periods between high usage. The synth oil doesn't seem to get slung(sp? slinged?) around as much. And yes, grease... fill the cups and thinly on the bearing and ride surfaces. I have a lot of HS red synthetic we used in motor generators that doesn't cake up like the old stuff does. It's probably way over-kill but it works and has lasted well for the last 10-20 years. I'm in the SE U.S..... when humidity+dust=rust... grease is a must (and yes I know there are products made for rust prevention but this is a lube question)
  20. Have you checked the basket/hook retaining set screw?
  21. 6 3/8" x 9" (in plastic w/fused seams) 161mm x 225mm Front keeper 6 3/8" x 4" Back keeper 6 3/8" x 3 3/4" You will (of course) have to adjust these dimensions by your stitch allowance and leather thickness.
  22. Hmmm... only allowed ONE upload? That pix is only 27.5kb??!!??
  23. Feed motion ring: Left to right … 29K-60 original, Kungpeng FMR assembled, Roller assembly kit(?), Bare FMR as shipped. Note the difference in length of the two Kungpeng castings. More to come
  24. Yep, appears to be 3/32" round pin with the sides filed flat to accept the spring slot. Use a piece of brass rod as a replacement slightly longer than needed, strike the replacement pin sharply to blind rivet set it and dress with a file. The pin sits about 1/8" proud.
  25. (@Constabulary) Harris finally retired, Pilgrim is no more... I think Wes(?) at Shoe Systems Plus picked up a lot of Pilgrim inventory, unfortunately he told me most of the patcher inventory went to metal recycler. What a loss.
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