billybopp

As it turned out, we didn't get to see much. I was able to see up to about 1/3 coverage when heavy clouds rolled in ... and just about the time it was all over they rolled out. I don't mind so much for myself as I've seen several eclipses in the past, but my partner has never seen one, and now still hasn't. - Bill

We're expecting about 90% here in Philly. Skies are clear. Couldn't find eclipse glasses anywhere, so I'll use a sextant to view. I also put together an eclipse kit .....

I'm lucky to be a pretty fair musician, but I've never been able to get my hands to move the right way to play stringed instruments ... Other than the ol' 88 string. - Bill

I don't know what it is, but the dog clearly has a guilty smile. Just sayin'. - Bill

That looks nice! If you're doing a full length belt, consider turning it by 90 degrees so that the rest of the belt can hang out front to back and not interfere with movement of the laser tracks at the side. Also, consider putting a small index mark at the very edge of the belt, and one on your jig to help alignment as you move on to the next segment of the pattern. If the index on the belt is small enough, you can probably remove it as you bevel the edges. As for, using the laser in place of a swivel knife, it might work but unless you can adjust power to change depth of cut on the fly you will not get some of the finer control of trailing off lines that you'd have with a swivel knife. Even if you CAN control that depth it's likely a lot of work to get the software to do what you want. That's probably worthwhile if you intend to make a lot of the same belts, but likely not worthwhile if you're making just a few. Just my thoughts - Bill

It's not uncommon to add a very light coat of NFO before dying. Folks say that it helps even out the dye when applied. Some will even mix NFO and dye. I haven't tried either and can't attest to whether it works or not. - Bill

Congratulations! To the great suggestions above, I'd add a small inspection mirror, a small flashlight, a nut driver set (Klein tools has a great new set with hollow shafts for longer screws), a little organizer box with common sizes of small screws, C and E clips (they have a way of flying away from you to God knows where when you remove them), some spring hooks, and for hex wrenches get the ball end ones, they're great! I'd add some slip stones to your abrasives. Consider a backpack tool bag to carry tools around, it'll spread the weight over both shoulders (your back will eventually thank you!). Over time, you'll figure out what you use most and should carry around, and what is useful but better left in the workshop. - Bill

I had a skinny leather tie in the 80s and loved it! It's probably still around here somewhere. - Bill

I totally get it with doing your best possible work, but consider that you do sometimes need to work to a price point. It's the same with just about everything on the market today. VERY few people have an unlimited budget, but some are much bigger than others. You don't want your less expensive products to taint people's opinion of your more expensive ones. One way to do that? Branding! Release less expensive, plainer, perhaps even less durable products under one brand, and then higher end more expensive products under another brand name. It happens in the business world all the time ... Sometimes everybody knows about it such as GM with Chevy, Buick, Cadillac, etc ... Other times, brands that you buy every day are owned by the same parent company but few people know it!! Just a thought - Bill

When I started doing leather stuff, I bought some Tandy kits. It was good to get a feel for how to put things together. Since then, I've bought others but the first thing I do with them is to make a pattern from them! I put the kit together to learn where the "sticking points" are in assembly and other details, and also use them to try out my first thoughts on decorating and colors. They generally come out OK, but what follows is usually much nicer when I use the templates to cut out my own version, use proper chisels to make sewing holes, and any other changes! The kits they sell tend to be attractive, nicely proportioned, solid designs that are then buggered up with huge stitching holes, the simplest possible way to attach hardware, etc. There are a lot of relatively simple improvements to be made by anybody with some experience under their belt. - Bill

Keep the handle, maybe! - Bill

I was tempted to order a sample, but shipping is $10!

... I see what you did there! LOL - Bill

Roller diameters do differ some, but there are limitations on how big machines will take. -Bill

That's definitely Dan Akroyd, but that must have been edited in by somebody. He would have been around 10 years old when that episode came out, and there also wouldn't have been a cassette player at the time. - Bill

Gremlins show up on airliners too ....

Roller embossers and plates both have their place. Rollers are generally easier but are more or less limited to patterns that repeat at up to about 4 or 5 inches or so (depending on the outer diameter of the roll). If you want a more varied pattern, you CAN use rollers and switch them out for different sections, but that is a huge pain to get things lined up right. For those more varied patterns, embossing plates are a better choice. It's relatively easy with plates to mix and match patterns for a wider variety of items. - Bill

I suspect that those are not embossed with a roller, but rather embossing plates. Look at the topmost blue belt and you can see a slight separation between embossed sections. It's noticeable with some of the others as well. Also, agree with @GatoGordo they are likely dyed the base color and then block dyed black after that. - Bill

211G165_166_265_266.pdf

If you have 50 TONS or so of lard ... You can launch a battleship! Before oil became civilization's main source of lubrication, animal fat of one sort or another was used to lubricate. Everything from wagon wheel axle grease to steam engine bearing surfaces. I have no doubt it was used to build the pyramids and great cathedrals too! P.S. At least for me, Bacon fat does a wonderful job lubricating my cast iron skillet for the eggs that are cooked after. Just don't tell my doctor that I do that, please. - Bill

It all depends on how you do it - but you need a good amount to run leather through. I dilute about 50/50 with denatured alcohol. Afterward, however, most of it goes back into the a bottle for use another time. Most things don't get fully submerged, and don't stay there for long. Belt straps, for example, just get held under with a gloved hand and pulled through - so not TOO much dye needed for that. - Bill

Dyes do not need to be diluted to be airbrushed. They are quite thin already. If you want finer control over the color, however, thinning can be helpful for building up color slowly. I've often used sponges, daubers and wool as well. All work fine. Dip dying can be a good option as well - but I do prefer diluted when dipping. - Bill

I've used sewn on velcro on similar straps. Glue alone would probably be fine, but I prefer to sew as well. - Bill

Merry Christmas!

That is a plough gauge. You PUSH it through the leather, like a plough. Below is a draw gauge. You PULL (or draw) it through the leather.